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The first costume is both smart and useful and Is a style well-suited to serf;©. Our model is in navy blue. The plaited skirt is cut In comfortable walking length, and has the plaits stitched down about halfway. White cloth is used for the waistcoat fastened down the center by small buttons and but * tonholes. The fronts of coat are cut away and semi-fitting, fine braiding com pletely edges coat, while buttons and cords add further trimming. The sleeves are elbow length and quite loose, they are trimmed to match. Hat of stretched satin, trimmed with beads and feathers. Materials required: 8 yards serge 48 inches wide, 3 dozen buttons, 1 dozen yards cord, 4 yards coat lining. The second is a princess shape; cloth or serge might either be used, straps of material trim the front of skirt part, two box-plaits are arranged under the strap in front. Braiding trims the back and sides of bodice part, also the revers and cufTs, which are of some light cloth, the buttons are of the same. Hat of light felt trimmed with ribbon and roses. Materials required: 6 yards cloth, 46 inches wide, 4 buttons, 4 yards lin ing, 1 dozen yards braid. HIGH COLLARS ARE HARMFUL Permanent Dark Mark Made If the Neck Garniture Is Worn Too High. The fad of wearing extremely high collars will have a hurtful effect upon the flesh of throat unless special care is given to prevent it, because through stoppage of circulation, a con dition brought about by high collars, a permanent dark mark comes, and 80Dio remedy to obviate the trouble must be employed. It is not expected that a girl will select a neck dressing that is a misfit. But she may take the happy medium of one that is not too close to her throat. For example, if 13 is the usual size, it is the part of wisdom to take 13% when the height of the linen is excessive. It is pre cisely the same theory that causes one to wear longer boots when the toes are excessively pointed. In order to preserve its roundness and softness the throat must have some air and freedom of movement Undoubtedly an aid to freshness is occasionally to change the style of collar worn and for a day to use one that Is not extreme. This relaxes and tones muscles that may have become cramped. SUITABLE IN MANY MATERIALS Cashmere, serge or any cloth, as long as It is the same as used for skirt would make up well for the over bodice. Three tucks are made on each shoulder both back and front; they are stitched down a few Inches. A mate rial strap stitched at each edge and trimmed with embroidered spots edges the opening and is also taken down the front over the fastenings. The oversleeve is trimmed in the same way. Materials required: 1% yards 46 inches wide, 2 buttons. Even the Veils Have Fringe. The craze for fringe has reached rells, and all the big new ones are heavily bordered, sometimes with one row and sometimes with two. If the veil Is of the changeable chiffon a •tanning effect in color is produced by the border of fringe having precisely the same hues. On the frailer net veils, which cover a wide range in col or. the fringe matches In shade. ALTERING AN EVENING GOWN. Scheme Very Much in Fashion and One That la Quite Easy to Carry Out. If the girl who Indulged in a scanty, sllmly cut sheath gown last winter wants to change It a bit to give more of the classic suggestion, she can do this by using two veils as drapery. The idea Is very much In fashion and Is easy to carry out. The veils themselves are often used by high priced dressmakers instead of buying chiffon cloth and hemming It. The veils have a selvage which makes them quite effective. One of the attractive ways of draping them Is to catch one at each shoulder, drawing it up under the arm and fastening on top with a paste buckle. The edges lower down may be lightly caught together over the arm a little above the elbow. This gives filmy but straight drapery from shoulder to hem which puts one In tho picture this season. Again, an extra long veil Is drooped across the back and caught at the back of each shoulder with a buckle and the ends left to hang straight SKIRTS WIDER AT THE HEM. Are a Distinct Improvement on the Tight Garment That Ex tremists Favored. The absurdly narrow skirt that one could hardly step In and that was only worn by the extremists, fashionable or otherwise, has had its day. All the new skirts have width at the hem. Even the street ones are three and four yards wide, and the house ones are from six to seven yards at the hem. They are not lined or stiffened or worn over petticoats, but they have a graceful fullness. They are not held back by elastics, and give no appear ance of the grotesque. They are quite ample, easy to walk In and more graceful on every figure than the extra tight ones. There are all sorts of rumors that the new skirt at the Paris races will be ten yards wide, but If one listened to all rumors these days no one would buy a gown with any feeling of se curity. Linen and Canvas for Book Covers. Attractive adjuncts to the living room are magazine covers made from heavy linens and craftsman’s canvas. For the postcard albums the latter fab rlc Is preferred. Both materials can be had In a variety of colors, and an applique of cretonne la a popular form of decoration. Book covers In a cool gray linen, adorned with a spray of purple or chids cut from cretonne, are pretty, and so are those in terracotta crafts man’s canvas, displaying a swastika cross cut from cretonne In doll ori ental colorings. To Keep Ruga Flat. Girls who have a habit of shuffling their feet, thereby Incurring frequent scoldings for kicking up rugs, will find life pleasanter If they cut triangles of medium weight cardboard, and sew them on the under aide of rags at each corner. Prominent People LEADS WOMAN S WAR ON TARIFF Platt R. Spencer, author of the system of penmanship we studied at school, she studied law and assisted her husband in his work until he died 17 years ago. Then she took over his law practice and lias since continued it success fully on her own account, practicing in the United States supreme court and lower tribunals as well. She is the counsel for several foreign legations, and for various national patriotic and labor organizations. She was one of the founders of the American Red Cross, and she organized the Washington Col lege of Law, of which she was made made dean and one of the professors. Mrs. Mussey secured from congress the passage of the law giving moth ers the same right to their children as the fathers in the District of Columbia, aB well as the legislation which accords married women the right to engage In business and to control their own earnings. She secured the first appro priation for a public kindergarten, and as a member of the Washington hoard of education, brought about important reforms in the educational system of the capital. It may be realized that when a woman of her experience, diplo macy and determination takes up the cudgels actively in the cause of woman and her gloves, her hosiery, her hats and her laces, her perfumes and toilet articles, most of which are heavily taxed in the new tariff measure, something is likely to give. It may not be congress—but it is not likely to be Mrs. Mus sey, either. NEW ROOSEVELT PROFESSOR ways kept up his friendly intercourse with them they are pleased at the idea of seeing him again. It is not only, how ever, as a student, a scholar and a linguist that the people of Germany are looking forward to the sojourn of Prof. Wheeler In Berlin, but more especially as the exponent of the best forms of American college life and of American ethics generally. The professor, who is a New Englander by birth and a Californian by adoption, has always been famed for bis active role In ath letics, and as a professor at Harvard and at Cornell, aB well as since he be came president of the University of California, has always identified himself In a marked degree with college sports. The emperor has expressed his opinion, which Is known to be shared in the highest educational circles in Germany, that the advantage of these Roosevelt professorships lies not alone In their scientific discourses, but like wise in the knowledge which they impart there with regard to American ideas, ethics, modes of thought and life; In short, of the highest forms of Americanism. Until now all the Roosevelt professors have hailed from seats of learning on the Atlantic seaboard or in the eastern states. Prof. Wheeler, as president of the University of California, will be welcomed by the kaiser and by the educational authorities in Germany with even more interest than his predecessors, since he will be in a position to enlighten people at Berlin about a part of America which la less familiar to them than any other, and yet which has been of late a great deal In the public eye, in connection with public sentiment on the Pacific coast concerning Japan. CREATOR OF GERMAN NAVY and overbearing in the protection of their sea forces. Winning rapid promo tion from the outset, von Tirpitz in 1891 was made chief of staff at Kiel. There he founded and organized the German torpedo service. . He also brought about administrative reforms in the German admiralty. In 1898 he came to the secretaryship, and at once set about to create the navy. His progress has caused profound uneasiness in Great Britain and has set that country hard at work rushing out new Dreadnoughts and similar big war craft at the most rapid gait possible. It is also suspected that there is some connection with the recent big-navy agitation in this country. GREAT RAILROAD BUILDER of lend. The lad planted It to hops, worked over it, used all his spare time at night and morning, and finally harvested one short bale, which he sent to town with his father. That was a long day. At last, In the evening, the father came home. To his anxlons son’s Inquiry he announced that the bale of hops had brought $23. Then he resumed his figuring. The boy waited about in silence for an accounting. At last the father looked up to ask what Donald was waiting for. "The money for my hops,” he said, expectantly. **The $23?” replied the father. “Oh, I spent it in town.** And Donald never a*w the color of his money. Woman's war upon the Payne tariff hill looms largely as the burning issue of the hour in her world. And instead of being confined to the signing of huge petitions which nobody will ever read, or the passing of eloquent resolutions by local literary clubs of whom nobody ever hears, the campaign is to be an active one, fought on the ground at Washington and with some of the same weapons that trust builders and labor leaders and lumber kings and other masculine interests use in such cases. Mrs. Ellen Spencer Mussey, who is the com manding general on the spot In the fight, repre senting the American Federation of Women’s Clubs, is a well-known lawyer of the capital who has done more things to be remembered by than many men. The daughter of the late Much satisfaction is manifested in Germany, especially in educational and scientific circles, at the selection of Columbus university of Ben jamin Ide Wheeler to fill at the Berlin univer sity the chair of Roosevelt professor, founded und endowed by James Speyer of New York. Prof. Wheeler, who for the last ten years has been president of the University of California, spent a number of years in the ’Bo’s at the leading German universities, notably at those of Berlin, Leipsic and Jena, receiving at the close of his studies the highest honors, namely, the degree of Ph. D. surnma cum laude, from the University of Heidelberg. Many of the leading professors In Germany are old fellow-students of his, and as he has al- Admiral Alfred von Tirpitz, secretary of the navy in the German cabinet, is the man who Is really responsible for the sudden spasm of navy building that is going on at a desperate rate upon two continents. In that connection he is responsible for a strange feeling of national uneasiness in at least one country outside his own. For his determination to make his country a sea power of the first class is back of it all. Von Tirpitz is the pioneer and creator of the kaiser’s navy, in a broad sense. When, at the age of 16, he became a naval cadet, the Prussian navy consisted of a small collection of frigates. The Faderland was considered about as much of a sea power as Switzerland, which is landlocked. Consequently, powers like Great Britain could afford to be somewhat audacious Donald D. Mann is a name that means little to the average American reader. Most of them have never heard it, or have not remembered it if they did. And yet this Canadian railroad builder and timber man has one unique claim to public attention. It is this: For the past 12 years not a single day has gone by that Mann has not built or bought a mile of railroad. He is one of the great railroad builders of his day. He had a commanding part in the creation of the Canadian Northern railway, and he has cut an important figure In the making of many others of lesser importance to the world than the one named. Of that he and a partner re tain practically all of the stock. Mann's first venture for himself was when, aB a boy, his father gave him the use of an acre A DOUBLE EVENT. Mrs. Highfly—And has she really got. two servants? Mrs. Flutter —Yes—one coming and one going. How’s This? W« offer One Hundred Dollars Reward for any ease of Catarrh that canuot bo cured by Hall’a Catarrh Cure. F. .1. CHENEY * CO.. Toledo. O. We. the undersigned, have known F. J. Cheney for the last 15 years, and believe him perfectly hon orable In all hnslnem transactions and llnunrlally I able to carry out uny obligations made by his Arm. | Waldinu. Kinnan & Makvin. Wholesale Drumtlsts. Toledo. O. Hall’s Catarrh Cure Is taken Internally, acting dtr*v-tlv uj>on tho blood and mucous surfaci-s of the Bystem. Testimonials sent free. Price 75 cents per bottle. Sold by all Druixlsts. Take Hall’s Family Pills tur constipation. Dressed as Scholars. At the wedding lately of the head j master of Eastbourne college. Eng- ! land, the three pages In the bridal pro cession were garbed as scholars in : black satin knee breeches, buckled shoos, scarlet silk gowns, with white shirt fronts. Each carried a mortar board hat and a scarlet-bound prayer i book. Important to Mothers. Examine carefully every bottle of CASTORIA a safe and sure remedy for infants and children, and see that it Bears the Signature of( Id Use For Over 30 Years. The Kind You Have Always Bought. His Daughter Played. Wife —I can’t understand, John, why j you always sit on the piano-stool when we have company. Everybody . knows you can’t play a note. Husband—l’m well aware of it, • dear. Neither can any one else when I’m sitting there. Shake Into Your Shoes Allen’s Foot-Ease, a powder for your feet. | It cures painful, swollen, smarting, s.veat ing feet. Makes new shoes easy. Sold by all Druggists and Shoe Stores. Don’t ac cept any substitute. Sample FREE. Ad dress A. S. Olmsted, Leßoy, N. Y. The Subject’s Nature. “What kind of rates do they pay for balloon stories?” ”1 don’t know, but they ought to be space rates.” Red, Weak. Weary, Watery Eyes Relieved by Murine Eye Remedy. Com pounded by Experienced Physicians. Mu- ; rine Doesn’t Jmart; Soothes Eye Pain. Write Murine Eye Remedy Co.. Chicugo, for illustrated Eye Book. At Druggists. To see a bridegroom out in the yard early in the ‘morning, in his shirt sleeves looking for kindling, takes a good deal of the romance out of bis case. It’s Pettit’s Eye Salve, that gives instant relief to eyes, irritated from dust, heat, sun or wind. *2.>c. All drug gists or Howard Bros., Buffalo, N. Y. The man who insists upon having his own way at all times will never acquire a reputation as a popular per son. Garfield Tea has brought good health to thousands! Unequalled for constipation, liver and kidney diseases. Composed of Herbs. Buy from your druggist. The Serpent’s Inducement. Perhaps the serpent told Eve that apples were good for the complexion. • i * SICK HEADACHE Positively cared by ] RS <hMB l, “ le Plll *- * They also relieve Dla- P tress from Dyspepsia, In digestion and Too Hearty . I Be Eating. A perfect rem "i* edy for Dizziness, Nau ,9i sea, Drowsiness, Bad Taste in the Mouth, Coat ed Tongue, Pain in the —___Jside, TORPID LIVER. They regulate the Bowels. Purely Vegetable. SMALL PILL. SMALL DOSE. SMALL PRICE. PAdtcdcl Genuine Must Bear 1 Fac-Simile Signature ISfe ** REFUSE SUBSTITUTES. RIFE RAMS PUMP WATER day and night—no expense for power, no attention needed—capacities up to 1,600 gallons a minute. IS Far H.ae Bjitrai, Firm, Irrfgatlaa, Towa Flaato, 411 Psrpoaa* Raise water 30 feet for every foot fall. I.ow In cost, sat tsfactlon guaranteed. Write for Free Flans, Estimates, etc. mnt KXBIf ro., tHOTrtalty BUS., WewTsrt THE GILLETTE SAFETY RAZOR Used by Mora Than Two Million Mon . NO •TRORRINO NO NONINO | u;-. s Wizard Oil ' 1 PAIN 1 DOCTOR ADVISED OPERATION CuredbyLydiaE.Piakham’s Vegetable Compound Paw Paw, Mich. —“I suffered terri- Hbly f rom female ills, conges said thertf was no hope for an I can now say I am Another Operation Avoided. Chicago, 111. —“I want women to know what that wonderful medicine, Lydia E. Pinkham’s Vegetable Com- < pound, has done for me. Two of the Lest doctors in Chicago said I would die if I did not have an operation, and I never thought of seeing a W’ell day again. I had a small tumor and female troubles so that I suffered day and night. A friend recommended Lydia E. Pinkham’s Vegetable Compound, and it made me a well woman.”—Mrs. Alvena Sperling, 11 Langdon St., Chicago, 111. Lydia E. Pinkham’s Vegetable Com pound, made from roots and herbs, has proved to be the most successful remedy for curing the worst forms of female ills, including displacements, i inflammation, fibroid tumors, irregu larities, periodic pains, backache, bear | ing-down feeling, flatulency, indiges ' tion, and nervous prostration. It costs j but a trifle to try it, and the result j has been worth millions to many suffering women. If you suffer from Fits, Falling Sickness, Spasms or have children or friends that do bo, my New Discovery will relieve them,and all you are uulted to do Is send for a FREE Bottle of Dr. May’s Eplleptlcide Cure. It lias cured thousands where every tiling elsa failed. Sent free with directions. Ezpreaa Prepaid. Guaranteed by Muy Medical Lab oratory. under the National Food and Drugs Act, June 30th, 1006. Guaranty No. 18071. Please give AGE and full address. DB. W. H. MAY. 848 Pearl Street. New York City. This Trade-mark Eliminates All | in the purchase of paint materials. It is an absolute guarantee of pur lty and quality. For your own that it is on the side of every keg of white lead you buy. RATIOIIAL LEAD COMPANY 1»02 Trinity lalHiag, In T«fc TOILET ANTISEPTIC NOTHING LIKE IT FOR TUP TPPTU exce l > any dentifrice Int I faE, I n in cleansing, whitening and removing tartar from the teeth, besides destroying all germs of decay and disease which ordinary tooth preparations cannot do. TUP lini ITU used as a mouth - ■ nt uIUU I n wash disinfects the mouth and throat, purifies the breath, and kills the germs which collect in the mouth, causing sore throat, bad teeth, bad breath, grippe, and much sicknesa. TUP PYPQ when inflamed, tired, acho Int LI Cw and bum, may be instantly relieved and strengthened by Pax tine. PATARRU Paxtine will destroy the germs wM I Annn that cause catarrh, heal the in flammation and stop the discharge. It is a sura remedy for uterine catarrh. | Paxtine is a harmless yet powerful germicide,disinfe<ftant and deodorizer. Used in bathing it destroys odors and leaves the body antiseptically clean. pOMnMH FOR SALE AT DRUG STORES, BOc. IA H' OR POSTPAID BY MAIL. I MB URGE SAMPLE FREE! UftfP THE PAXTON TOILET GO.. BOSTON. MASS. WHAT’S Your Health Worth? You start sickness by mistreating nature and it generally shows first in the bowels and liver. A ioc box (week’streatment) of CASCARETS will help nature help you. They will do more—using them regularly as you need them—than any medicine on Earth. Get a box today; take a CASCARET tonight. Better m the morning. It's the result that makes millions take them. 881 CASCARETS ioc a box for a week's treatment, all druggists. Biggest sellar in the world. Million boxes a month. —“PAAWkfe'S NBiSB HAIR BALSAM (Jloanwn and beoatiflos tho hall. Ptomots a luxuriant growth. ■RKQfc W*Tor Falls to Bastors Oray Hair to Its Youthful Color. Cm— scalp djooaooo a hair taUiaf. BATEIITO WatswnE. Coleman, Wash- PATENTS *£53S£S iThonpson’s Eys Wals7 W. N. U., DENVER, NO. 18-1909.