Newark evening star and Newark advertiser. [volume], September 20, 1913, HOME EDITION, Fall Fashion Number, Page 8, Image 24

About Newark evening star and Newark advertiser. [volume] (Newark, N.J.) 1909-1916

Image provided by: Rutgers University Libraries

                
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SUMPTUOUS GOWNS AND
WRAPS FOR EVENING
Many dark evening gowns among new models. All
dancing frocks deeply slashed. Faint yellow
enormously fashionable now. Toga
effects in modern wraps.
One might say of the new evening
gowns not that they are strikingly
new' or surprising, but that they are
"even more so" than gowns of last
season. Close, clinging draperies con
tinue; fabrics wind about the figure,
frankly revealing its lines; bodices
continue to show the deep V or square
shape with a more emphatic decol
letage than before; veilings of tulle
give the semi-nude effect over the
shoulder and arm, waistlines con
tinue large, and skirts, though drag
ging softly about the feet, are lifted
artfully in one way or another to re
veal a pretty foot and ankle. There
seems to be no entirely new note in
evening costumes; yet, so skillful are
the couturiers in their manipulation
of the modes that a last winter’s gown
will be hopelessly passe and unthink
ably recognizable in its antiquity.
Newness is shown, in fact, not so
much In forms as in fabrics. Gorgeous
brocades in Oriental and modern art
effects have replaced the plain colored
meteors and chameuse of a season
ago, and there is a striking effect of
contrast between skirt and bodice—
that is to say, upper bodice, for
usually the silken skirt material rises
to the bust line, folds of tulle or lace
being drawn over the shoulders and
arms. One or two dressmakers are
going in for little mantles of black
lace, which give an odd, matronly ef
fect to otherwise coquettish evening
gowns. Such a model, by one of the
great couturiers is of blue and green
brocade, with an upper bodice of
black tulle over white tulle in soft,
cloudy effect. A lace mantle of black
Chantilly falls at the back to the
waistline, and is brought forward to
form loose sleeves, the folds of lace
being caught Just below the bust
under a large Jet ornament. Change
Exquisite Gifts at Wiss’
for October’s Fair Brides
Our best efforts have been expended
this season in bringing before our patrons
a showing of Bridal Gifts that will rival
any ever seen in Newark.
The leading styles in jewelry, the latest
and most exclusive designs, the newest
and most striking effects will to a great
degree be shown at the Wiss store this
season.
Diamonds, Gem-Set Jewelry,
Finest Watches, Silverware in
Sterling and- Heaviest Plate,
Handsome Cut and Engraved
Glass, Clocks, elegant line of Wiss Cutlery.
To gain a better conception of the wide selections, the rich ar
tistic value and the moderate prices of articles at the Wiss store, you
should surely call at your first opportunity.
J. WISS & SONS, Broad simt Newark
able blue and green silk stockings and
button-strap slippers of black satin
added zest to this dashing gown.
The blue and green model had a
slash to the knee at the back, hidden
under a sort of Watteau pleat, but
giving sufficient room for dancing.
The modern dances are as strenuous
as the modern art effects and special
provision must be made for the bend
of the Tango in the up-to-date danc
ing skirt or sad havoc will occur. It
is this Tango bend that the deep
slash provides for.
Flounced Skirts Much Mked for
i Debutante Wear.
Many of the dainty little frocks for
dancing wear are of shadow or ma
lines lace, built in tiers of flounces, a
narrow slip of thin white silk under
the flounces holding the skirt in ap
proved lines. All these sweet little
frocks have more or less obvious
slashes and some of them—very late
models—show lines of fur trmming.
Fur is to play a large part in evening
dress this coming winter season—so
promise the couturiers and already
fur collars are appearing on new eve
ning wraps designed for late summer
wear at Trouville and other fashion
able coast resorts. Many fur girdles
have also been seen and In truth it
seems that fashion is more deter
mined than ever to abolish the
slender waistline, for wide, draped
sashes and fur girdles giving an in
disputably thick walsted effect are
the last cry of the mode. Thick
necks are also the thing, but there Is
at least some consolation in the
thought that the larger the neck ap
pears, the smaller and more artisto
cratic looks the head.
Dlrectotre Lines Return.
Paris is tired, evidently, of so much
orientalism, and gradually the bar
baric styles of the East are giving
way before the classic effects now'
being pushed forward by the cou
turiers. Polret has gone in strongly
for the classic, and his latest sensa
tion is a simple little gown of milk
white silk with knowing touches of
empire green, which he calls the Jo
sephine gown, and which has many of
the features of the costumes worn
by the illustrious empress of the
French. The Poiret gown is intensely
classic—and as everybody knows, di
rectoire costumes were patterned
after the classic. It is of thinnest
silk, worn over almost nothing, and
clings to the lines of the figure. There
is a long train which may be caught
up and tossed over the arm during
the dance, and the short-waisted
bodice with its square decolletage is
entirely directoire in type.
Toga Wraps on Classic Lines.
This vogue of the classic Is emu
lated also by the builders of wraps,
and one or two new models show a
strong leaning toward the toga effect,
the foot of the garment clinging
closely, while there Is a voluminous,
draped effect at the shoulders. The
wrap is not actually flung across the
shoulders, as was the toga of the
An Annual Loss of $200,000
IS THE LOWEST AND MOST CONSERVATIVE
ESTIMATE THAT THE RESIDENTS OF THIS CITY
SUFFER EACH YEAR BY THEIR OWN LACK OF
KNOWLEDGE AS TO WHAT GREAT SAVINGS
CAN BE ACCOMPLISHED BY HAVING THEIR
GOWNS, WRAPS, SUITS AND HOUSEHOLD
DRAPERIES DRY CLEANED OR DYED, AS THE
CASE MAY WARRANT. THE RICH GROW RICH
ER BY ECONOMY, THE POOR GROW POORER
BY WASTE. BE ECONOMICAL BY USING OUR
SERVICE. THE OLD SUITS CLEANED UP
LOOK AS GOOD AS NEW, COSTING A MERE
TRIFLE. WE HAVE EVERY KNOWN MODERN
EQUIPMENT THAT PRODUCES BEST RESULTS.
THE LAIBLIN COMPANY
10, 12, 14 Longworth Street
889 Broad Street 8 Academy Street
Phone [phone] Market
ancient Roman, but this effect is pro
duced by drapery. A superb wrap of
this character by Vistel Is hand em
broidered in seli7tone embroidery apd
wrap being in delicate lemon tint.
Remon yellow is intensely fashion
able Just now and has replaced the
deep mandarin yellow of last season.
A lovely dancing frock for a young
girl—to be married in the early fall
—is of lemon-colored silk veiled with
white net, on which are hand-painted
pale yellow roses. This frock is by
Callot, who has taken up hand-paint
ed fabrics for evening wear. Another
dancing frock by Callot shows white
net painted with green mignonette
over a slip of white satin. The wrap
accompanying this frock is of white
brocade, lined with pale green silk.
Tulle Largely Iscd In Radices.
The decolette bodice that is not
finished with folds of tulle is en
tirely out of it—as far as fashion is
concerned. All modish evening gowns
have more or less tulle in the bodice;
more, if the wearer is modest, and
Jess If she is not. Every decolettage
is cut very low and one must decide
for herself how much or how little
tulle shall be set within the decol
letage. These soft folds of tulle
against the skin are marvelously be
coming and one wonders how women
aver consented to wear bodices show
ing a harsh line of fabric against the
neck.
1.
Classic Lines Replace Oriental Effects
In Wraps.
Many of the great couturiers are
favoring classic rather than Oriental
lines in the softly clinging evening
wrap; and this model by Vistel is
strongly suggestive of the ancient
Roman toga in its clinging effect at
the feet and voluminous drapery at
the shoulders. The wrap is of lemon
colored satin-surfaced faille and is
embellished with superb hand em
broidery in self color, the embroidery,
in border effect, emphasizing the long
lines of the garment.
2.
The l atest Wrap Is Cut Like a Bag.
So graceful and clinging are the
lines of this Clothilde wrap that it
seems hard to believe that a straight
length of goods, without shaping, has
heen used in its making, but this is
the case, as a careful examination of
the wrap discovers. The material is
carried up over the shoulders and
over to form the sleeves, the back
breadth being brought around under
the arms and joined to the overlap
ping ends. The wrap is of two-toned
velvet brocade with conventional
flowers in black and white threads
on a rich blue satin ground. Frills
of creamy lace add softness at neck
and wrists.
S.
Dark Evening Gowns Have Filmy
Bodices*
The contrast between the tulle bod
ice and moderately dark skirt of the
modish evening gown produces a
striking effect and throws the fair
ness of shoulders and arm into high
relief. This gown by Lager is typi
cal of a style now very popular wdth
Parisiennes. The draped skirt and
corselet bodice are of terra cotta and
black brocade and there is an orna
ment of black jet at the waistline
Under this jet ornament are caught
folds of black lace which drape back
ward over the sleeves and form a lit
tle mantle at the back. The upper
bodice is made of folds of soft white
tulle.
4.
An Oriental Dinner Gown by Callot.
Even the great dressmakers are
following the extreme features now
accepted even by conservative
patrons. The slash in this dinner gown
comes at the back, the front of the
gown being lifted also to reveal a
buttoned strap slipper. The gown,
which has clinging lines, is of rich
Oriental brocade, with green and blue
figures on a deep blue ground. Black
and white tulle are combined with
this blue-green coloring most effec
tively, the transparent bodice being
of black tulle over white tulle, with
flesh-tinted tulle beneath.
,6.
Clothllde Is Famous for Lovely Eve
ning Wraps.
Another interesting wrap from
Clothllde is pictured here. This model
is a veritable rose-hued dream for
material — velvet — embossed chiffon;
lining of satin liberty; and pleatings
at neck and sleeve-ends of velvet are
all in the identical rose color—a bril
liant but soft American beauty shade
that is infinitely becoming. The wrap
has the new lines—straight from neck
to knee at the back, but softly lifted
at the front. It is w'orn over a danc
ing gown of white lansdowne.
Our Assortment of Women’s and
Misses’Suits is QR
very large
Stunning suits that are not only beautiful to look at but
give all the self-gratification and supreme comfort that are felt
when one is correctly fitted into an ultra modish, well-tailored
model that no end of service will alter in form and appearance.
They are fascinating in their style and individuality and embrace
a scope of styles ranging from the most conservative strictly
tailored garments to the dashing cutaway or gracefully draped
advanced models. j
k Garment Alterations Are FREE I
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_683=687 Broad St. 21 W. Park St. I