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JACKSON COUNTY JOURNAL, SYLVA, N. C.
Styles Go Back H To Early Dates mm I? Net Contents 15 fluid DracM 1 SJ?w III -H " fill VV mm It la a long cry from Heary II to Cromwell, but fashion Jumps that length in seven-leagued bmti and regards it as a trifle. Fash Ion, indeed, asserts a fashion critic, places the two periods of the world's history together without apology. She tikes a bit from one and a slice from the other, and calls It a frock. History has been ransacked for three years for inspiration, strange to re cord, when one realizes that a few decades from now fashion will proba bly .start in to register the impres sions ot these days, and throughout H the ages to come, If there are such tkiags as fashions for women, those wiio build them will go to this era of world-war as an aid to jaded brains. Iossibly Napoleon was sufficiently an egotist to foresee that the period he treated in the world's progress would astthe fashion designers at least an kundred years, as It has done, but he night have been startled at the fact Street suit taken from Cromwell's rule in Britain. It Is of dark-blue c!oth with two rows of tiny silver buttons down the front, a battlemented hem, and wide linen collars and cuffs, i&at, iu a tremendous time like this, which makes his mighty battles puny erents, we should go on playing varia tions on the theme of clothes which he kroaght about through his Martian ad rentures in other lands than his own. Nons of the designers have gotten ry far away from the Napoleonic ra, and their apology i3 that inspira Mon was drawn from every source dur ing the reign of this one man, and that It would be difficult to find something which had been omitted. Very true. We Turn to England. There was once a time, in the be ginning of the Consulate, when fash ion In Parl3 was turned toward the ancient enemy across the channel and korrowed ideas for dress. This was done In a spirit of perversity by cer tain sections of society; but the Paris designers now turn there in a differ ent spirit one of intense gratitude nd friendliness, and instead of look ing among present fashions for inspira tion, knowing full well by practical eridence that they are Parisian, she feas gone back to British history. Later she may remember Mesopotamia and Palestine, and linking them to Ailenby and Marshall, swirl back to Holy Land costumery. At the moment she is interested in eras of which she has thought little and cared less. It seems a strange Mdng that the temperamental design ers of Paris, on whom the world de pends for the movement of the season io clothes, should revive the fashions of Cromwell. Curious juxtaposition of tdeas. None has ever arisen in French fcistory wno could be likened tQ thig Puritan, and we may find the reason for this singular recrudescence in the pleasant fact that Cromwell was sand wiched between two Charleses whose frivolity is historically foreign to Paris The Crorawelllan Inspiration is new the revival of those fashions which were adopted before the word had any significance when Henry I was king of England. In looking over a book of old costumery the similarity shown between the frocks of then and nd is startling. And this is all the fur ther we have goue in dress, is the ex clamation that comes first. Those were severe fashions when Cromwell Interrupted the pleasure-lov-ins Stuarts. Soma one has said that when Charles II came to the throne England with a sigh of relief laid side her hair shirt to show that she wore a silk one beneath. Just recently there has appeared sev eral sorts with battlemented hems strange sign of those times, and a double row of buttons on each side of ong straight front opening. The wide linen collar and cuffs are added and on, sees that it Is a new fashion.' , Not so new, but equally Cromwell- New York. l J ian, is the sleeveless blouse, or short tunic that our shops sell as casnallv as they once did the American shirt waist. These, also, were battleniented at the hem, while ours are not, but they also showed the full sleeves of the shirt beneath. In those days the man chose the undershirt in broad yellow and red-barred stripes. As we wear this other coat, the bat tlemented one -with long sleeves, fas tened at the neck, but not below, the effect is good. It provides a variant from the accepted styles of jackets. It Is beltless, which is a fashion the French designers are striving hard to establish. The slim lines of this coat keep the widths from awkwardness and the small armholes aid the clean cut look. Sinuous Hips of the Orient. It may be a happy fact one that gives cause for rejoicing that design- ers have no objection to "bunching" the countries when it comes to fash ions. To put the oriental hip drapery alongside the coat of Cromwell and the chemise of Adele of Lauvain is legitimate business. All's well that once looked well, might be their motto and they go on making a sartorial Tower of Babel, for if a costume could speak, this is what would happen in any representative gathering. The Orient is always too seductive, too easy of imitation, to escape constant usage; there may have been periods in social history when it would not have been possi ble to persuade well-placed women to appear in the clothes of the Temple girls and those of the Bazaars, but we don't happen to belong to one of them. We have stopped at some things in the last six years, but we have gone far, very far. Sedateness has entered into costum ery during the last two years, but now we may see a return to license in cos tumery that may make pre-war fash- Ions appear anemic. Let us hope that joy won't be too unconfined. If there is a pleasing sedateness with freedom from demureness and drabness, then we will see good cos tumes. Already there is a gracious way of employing orientalism which cannot be objected to bv conserva tives, even in the hip drapery whose swathings are the sign and symbol of the Eastern dancers. ! There is a tendency to combine col- ored satin with black thread lace in the oriental frocks, which takes away the suggestion of the East except In ! the swirl of fabric that goes about the ! hips. j The Square Figure. These are minor changes, however I important they may be to the mass of ! m"u who nave no intention of swinging their clothes into every pro cession that passes, in comparison to the subtle transformation going on in the contour of the figure. It is get ting square. If it succeeds there is another blue ribbon of victory to the house of Callot who moves along a mysterious way toward changing the fashion of the civilized world. When Callot sent to this country those primitive garments without belt, or curve, cut straight from two pieces Gown of sweet-gum colored velours showing the square contour for which fashion is headed. The back of the skirt is plaited, the front Plain. Under the square bodice there is a sash of Indian-red crepe. of cloth, or so it appeared, and sewed up at each side, women simply uttered an emphatic negative and passed them by. Even that little group of extrem ists which can be depended on to trv out everything once, at least, were too doubtful of the experiment to pu? money in it. And yet here it is creep- !mn2a,?Tg a" the best go'ns from important houses and promised as the ruling contour for sprin (Copyright, 1918 by McClure Newspaper syndicate.) Ruffle of Wide Edgino Corsets o( flosh-colored silk broosds and veiled by black lace are Sed 4 THE TWO ROSES. "Have I ever met you before?" asked the yellow rose of a beautiful pink rose. The pink rose was of a very exquisite color and though the yellow rose had se4en many pink roses it was sure it hadn't seen one of just that very same shade. "I don't believe you have," said the pink rose, "for I am a new kind of a rose. I have only been trained to do what I was told to do lately. My grand mother made her debut last spring." "What in the world is a debut?" asked the yellow rose. "A debut is when a rose makes its first appearance and first bow to the world. "They use that word," continued the pink rose, "when speaking of girls after they have become vnun? IjuHps I and are ready to so to crown-nn I dances and balls. But with a rose they use it meaning a rose's first appear ance. "So you see we're new. Grandmoth er was the first of our kind. We're known as the Columbian rose family." "I'm glad to make your acquaint ance," said the yellow rose a little stiffly. It was quite impressed talking to a brand-new kind of rose. "Thank you," said the pink rose. "What did you mean a little while ago when you said you had only been trained to do what you were told to do lately?" asked the yellow rose. "Well, my grandmother was the first to do what she was told to do. I didn't actually mean that I had only been trained of lat? to do what I was told, but I meant that my family had' been trained of late to do the thing we were supposed to do. That is we're not doing what we are not supposed to do." The yellow rose dropped a petal in its astonishment. They were in vases of water in the window of a florist's shop. Some passersby saw the yellow rose petal drop and said, "What beautiful yellow roses, but one of the roses just dropped a petal. They must be get ting a bit old." j And they admired the beautiful pink roses and the pink rose which had been talking to the yellow rose, grace fully and very beautifully bowed its head ever so little. "I must be .careful and not get ex cited by what you say again," said the yellow rose, "for the florist won't be able to sell me, and I won't be taken 1 home to cheer up some one. I'm not really old. I was only very much ex- cited by what you had said. I tried to "I Want to Wear a Rose." keep up with what you were savin?. but gracious! I was terribly confused." "Poor yellow rose," said the pink rose. "It was aH my fault. For a rose which doesn't prick I'm very inconsid erate." "What do you mean by that?" asked tne yellow rose. "I haven't any thorns on me that Is i oni nave some way, way down by the bottom of my stem. That is what they have trained our family to do. "We have at last succeeded in being Ihornless or practically thornless. We have a few by the bottom of our stems but none by our flowers." "How wonderful!" said the yellow rose. "Yes, it took a good deal of training and teaching to make us like that and last spring when my grandmother made her appearance she was the first one to have succeeded in being almost thornless. T 1 bince then we've all followed her example. Do you like our shndpr "It's exquisite," said the yellow rose. "Well, Ym glad you like me," said the pink rose, "but I like you 00. I've always been very fond 0f yellow roses." The yellow rose smiled a lovelv rose smile and just then some people came in to look at the pink roses and the yellow roses. "I want to wear a rose," said a young girl who had come in the shop as it is my birthday and my sister ie &nn0 me Ah' hovv 1 ,ove them Well, said the florist, "here is a rose which won't prick you. There are no thorns around this flower." And the pink rose was worn proudly by the young girl. J Lue And a little later the yellow rose OTl1 . m VOV UiJU auuitj otner yellow roses were i.iKeu 10 cheer a little sick. girl who was Couldn't Keep a Secret. lou have been a naughty Jimmy," said his mother, "and I tell your father " boy, snail "Oh, of course," exclaimed Jimmy, you never can keep a secret." EXPEDITE MOVEMENT OF COW Every Effort Should Be Made to Pro vide Comfort for Animals While in Transit. (Prepared by the United States Depart ment of Agriculture.) Each fall an influx of springer or fresh cows enters dairying sections that seek more milch animals. Every effort should be exercised to expedite the railroad movement of the dairy cows during their time in transit and to provide all possible comfort for the animals en route, advise the dairy ex perts of the United States department of agriculture. - Such care and atten tion will rednce mortality and will in crease the production of the individual during her lactation period over the flow which generally obtains from the average cow that is carelessly "rail roaded." Valuable purebred cows should be moved as rapidly as possible by express service or by freight under the special system of loading, from origin to desti nation. Although the expense of ex pressage is four to five times as great as that of handling the animals hv freight, the saving in animal comfort, shorter time in transit, and better con veniences for feeding and watering the aimiiais. mase the added expenditure advisable. As far as possible the an imals should be shipped one or two months before they are due to fresh en, as repeatedly fresh cows have been ruined so far as the subsequent lacta tion period has been concerned as a re sult of being shipped shortly after freshening or as to calve in transit. Milch cows of grade breeding usual ly are shipped by freight. The expe rienced stockman selects only dry cows and farspringers for long shipments. Heifers which are not due to freshen until three or four weeks after arrival at destination make good "buys," as they are of a size and condition which j permits of loading the car to capacity. ' Furthermore, immature animals are I less susceptible to injury in transit ' and to damage as a result of a marked change of environment. If possible, : only animals without horns should be I shipped ; and in case any horned ani- j mals have to be moved, they should be tied securely or penned apart in one 1 end of the car to preclude the possi-1 bility of their injuring other animals ' during the journey. j Similarly, where bulls are shipped in mixed loads, these sires should be con fined apart from the other cattle. Oth er conditions being equal, it is advisa ble to load about fourteen mature cows in a 38 or 40foot car. A practical ar rangement is to tie four cows in each ! end of the car facing the end walls, and ! then rough partitions can be installed so that two other rows of three cows each face a center alleyway between the car doors where the attendant can stay and extra feed and water be car ried. This arrangement is more com fortable for the cows as they ride, and Da'ry Cows Shou,d B Dry, If Possi. ble, When ney Are Moved Ovet Railroad. absorbs the shock and jar better, while it is also simpler for the caretaker to feed the cows and clean out the car en route. Ag far as possible, the stock should be shipped during cold weather, advise the authorities of the United States de partment of agriculture, as cows han dled during hot weather are liable to shirk appreciably in milk flow during the successive lactation period. Spe cial precaution shlPPing cows during cold weather tn avum exposure which will favor the contraction of pneumonia, usually a fa tal disease among mature cow stuff At best it takes an animal, about a year to become thoroughly acclimated to a warmer or colder climate than that to which it has been accustoms on this acount, the movement should j piav. uc a time of year when the temperature of the two points is as nearly equable as possible. RAISE BEST DAIRY HEIFERS Good Calves Should Be Kept to Insure Quantity of Products Demanded at Present. (Prepared by the United States Depart ment of Agriculture.; The war has srreatlv demand. for dairy products and it Is! xxxuiiuut mat they be produced economically. In orde that the quan tity of dairy proaucts may be large and the production economical, more ana better cows are needed. The rais ing of all the best heifer calves will tows enouSb to permit calling out of all low producers. the . . arvrwvsvivwi ....-. . Mvf-VA" v v r 'v v - - " - ' -' - s 'f v v.-.-.-.-. .....-..-.. :::::::.:-:::::..:.::..:.:."-.-...... v.". .-.......v.-.-.V.v.;.;o;. MB 1 v ALGOHOL-3 PER CENT. AetablePrcpafation6rAs-j 111 mm. sim atinS thelool DVKeeuia- f linthcStomachsandBowdsrf I Thereby ItaoingDtecsM I UiccrlulncssandKesi.ioiuflui ncimcrOpium,Morphinenor Mineral. Not jnargotw JmpimSem Mx Senna tochtU Stdtt AnisSd JfttarMmatt Sna Worn Sad OarifodSngar h&tUrrmn flavor AhdnfulRemedyfor Constipation and DiarrnoeM msmm . and Fevensnncss aim Loss of Sleep a resulting iher cfrora-inlntanty. a s aw1 rac-Simile Signatureo lilt Mm tBt Centaur Compaq NEW VORKj a mmm Exact Copy of Wrapper. : . , - gists, harness dealers Tour horsp tn ht ivu i..nr;r.i.!,i Spohn. Medical Co. TWjDsnnassaiimgg Uv (OkLLTIcMaiiK To Water Hanging Plant. Place a small funnel in the center of the basket, leaving the cup part above the soil, but hidden by the fol iage. Fill this with water daily. The water will soak Into the soil gradually and will not run through onto the floor below, spoiling carpets or waxed floors. Down to Earth. Mrs. Peavish says that before they were married Mr. Peavish' liked to hear her sing "Home, Sweet Home." and now he likes to hear her rattle dishes on the table. Galveston News. wnn In a Healthy Child ku.cblM.ren troubled with wornis ha"e an an- tni t,f? - .? L S? chnl TONIC- given regularly In?Tb Mon'?n,d actaa a General Strength ening Tonic to the whole system. Matnra will than "ffor dispel the worms, and the Child will bS in perfect health. Pleasant to take. 60o per bottle! Keep dry groceries in It Is very convenient. glass jars; Keep your liver active, your bowels clean br taking Dr. Pierce's Pleasant Pellets and Von-n keep healthy, wealthy and wise. Adv. JW " A locomotive engineer has to whis tle for his pay. Indigeetlon dyspepsia sour stomachs-bloated , gassy Btom achs-belchy. miserable-feeling stomachs these are Acid-Stomachs. What a lot of misery they cause! now Acid-Stomach, with its day-after-day sufferings, does take the joy out of life! Not only that Acid Stomach is always undermining one's health. Think of what acid does to the teeth how the acid eats through the enamel, causing them to decay. Is it any wonder, then, that Acid Stomach saps the strength of tho strongest bodies and wrecks the health of so many people? You see ACID-STOMACH victims everywhere airays ailing. They can't tell exactly what is the matter- s.11 they say is, "I don't feel well" "I'm all in; iired, sickly." If they only knew it, nine times out of ten it is Acid-Stomach that is ailing them. 16 surely makes good digestion diffi cult, causes food to Bour and fer ment in the bowels, weakens the blood and fills the system with poi sons. It prevents one from getting -w .owwigwi uut vi tneir iooa. -ir- r u Mm Miiis a pnu FOR YOUR For Infants and Child Mothers Know Tlia Genuine Castoria Always Bears the Signature of In Use For Over Thirty Years in you TMK CKWTAUW COMPANY. NIW YOftN OITV. m. it a ii KTi Fall Run of Distemper MAY BE WHOLLY AVOIDED BY USING "SPOHN'S" aa11 T,ou1tla7 of mone7 brin9 mt .t results, it Is a sure cure and a preventive If you use it as per directions. Simple, safe and sure. The larce slz. is twice the quantity and an onnop mn ,ar.se 5JZ V , " --v"c .0,ua" "-""i iur iaie ian ana winter. or manufacturers. All dreg- Goshen, Ird, U. S. A. SOLD FOR SO YEARS For MALARIA, CHILLS and FEVER Also a Fine Genera Strengthening Tonic. SOLD BT ALL DKDG STOKES- Especially a Good Looking Glass. Said the almost philosopher, "Fair woman now hurries along in her mad flight from one department store to another, doing her Christmas shopping. Perhaps she is not entirely unmindful of the skads of money she Is spending perhaps not! At least when she Is seen sliding up to a little strip of glass facing the sidewalk to give herself a pat and a poke, we are safe in con cluding that she has at least paused for reflection." How's This ? We offer $100.00 for any case of catarrh inat cannot be cured by HAT T CATARRH MEDICINE. "ALLS HhL'S,FATA..RRH MEDICINE Is tak- ,lterwalIy and 4018 through the Blood VeMu5OU3 Surfaces of the System. plb,Ldrf?J?is Yer rty years. tt v iTc" mats iree. J. Cheney & Co.. Toledo, Ohio. An act of heroism is temporary while an act of charity is everlasting. Will einel Warm. " ba01. dose or after mimtiir. Zrr" up the stomach and Bowels. Adv. Aon" Cheese is one of the very best sub stitutes for meat. 'warn. Take EATONIC and get rid of your, Acid-Stomach. This wonderful mod ern remedy actually takes the excess acid out of the stomach. It quickly and positively relieves bloat, heart burn, belching, food repeating, sour, gassy stomacn, and the pains of indi gestion. Makes the stomach cool and comfortable keeps it sweet and strong. Banishes all stomach trou bles so completely that you foniet you have a stomach. You can est what you like and digest your food in comfort, without fear of distressing after-effects. EATONIC helps you get full strength out of every mouthful you eat and that is what you must 6 A,be wel1 and Btrong-fuU strength from your food. Get a big box of EATONIC from vour druggist TODAY. We .authorize him to guarantee EATONIC to please you. If it fails in any way, take it Dack; be will refund your money. If your druggist does not keep EATONIC. write to us and we will send you a big 50c box. You can send us the 50c after you receive it. Address H. L. Kramer, President, Eatonic Remedy Company. wu "ftuaou, wucagO, 111. (Ml -o r O UJ D A ACiD-STOMACH )y