fads and fabrics to
Duvetyn Is the Ncv? Cloth and tbc "Japanese Bow tbc
Accessory Sensation of tbc Season
the fall -fashions
miiiiiii ' iiiiiteiriiiiriiiri
f &X. Kr rHf
f?' I Jf! - i' cm
v. il.'h" ) -i'-AW
THE new materia!, duvetyn. la i
being exploited by dressmak- I
ers this season both for street
suits and frocks. Duvetyn is j
somewhat like velours de laine. but I
even more surr'e In weave. It was in- j
vented by F.odier. who registered the j
name, but this precaution has not pro
tected him from duplications ol tne
weave. The material is to be found in
silk, wool and a mixture of both
threads, and. I believe, in cotton.
All of the soft new fabrics of the sea
son are being made up into what are
called "tailored costumes, but these
models have no resemblance to the
strictly tailored suits of a few years
ago. which were triumphs of the cou
turiers skill in the putting together of
seams and the molding of them to the
This year the object Is to follow the
linos of the uneorsoted figure and not
to turn out a "fit" If it can possibly be
avoided. Styles are sloppy and
slouchy: still there is a charm as well
as an allure about these negligee look
Skirts are scant and will probably
remain so for another season, and less
drapery is seen on dressy costumes
than was the ru'.e last spring and the
past summer. The slit. too. is a thing
or xne past in me new muurs, hit nrv.ii.
drapery being caught up in front to
pive the desired fashionable, irresrular j
foot line. There is a hint from Pari i
that a miniature bustle is on its way
over. It will appear, so we are ioia. in
the guise of a Japanese hnrv formed by
bunchirg the drapery of the skirt sev
eral inches from the waist line in the
To continue our skikrt talk. tier,
skirts are popular, and heavy woolen
materials will be made up In two or j
three tiers on a silk foundation, so as i
not to add to their weisrht. Many of j
the new skirts are finished with the;
selvage instead of a hem. which also'
lessens the weight. Indeed, all through
the style world the idea is to get away
from anything that suggests bulk and
excess sartorial baggage.
Walking skirts are shorter this fall,
which edict makes the matter of foot
wear even more important than ever.
Short and round lengths are used for
costumes, save very elaborate evening
frocks. When trains are employed they
will b short and narrow. One very
graceful Idea in trains is the scarf ef
fect, which may be looped up over the
arm when the wearer does not wish it
Coat lengths vary. American tailors ;
have agreed to make the average coat!
on tailored models from thirty-six to;
thirty-eight inches long in fact, the'
matter of an inch or two either way 1s j
now less important than making the j
relative proportions becoming to the
Of course the cutaway effects are the i
accepted ones, subject to many modi- I
fications. For example, the long swal- j
lowtail effect in the back is often used
with the cut of a tuxedo front. Sleeves
in tailored coats are sewed In at the
long shoulder seam, but the kimono
sleeve In a number of forms Is a fa
vorite on dressy models.
A story of fall styles could not be
written without mention of the vests,
which are universal on both coats and
waists. They are Introduced when
ever such an adjunct can be incorpo
rated in a elation. They are manu
factured as separate articles, but. as a
rule, are part of the coat itself. There
are fur.ny little Eton Jackets made
for the elaborate coat suit, with vests
or waistcoats of fancy silks further
embellished with smart looking but
tons, often of real jewels.
The newest coats, however, are those
with skirts that stand out like those
worn by the premiere danr.euse of the
ballet Possibly this is a slight exag
geration, but the effect is certainly
that of a wire holding the coat away
from the dress in a very conspicuous
From present indications plaids and
checks are to be conspicuous features
of the fall and winter modes. Entire
frocks are made of large broken plaid
or checked fabrics, some in somber.
other in gay colorings.
Plaid skirts and plain coats are
much in evidence, and a particularly
stunning creation of this sort was seen
recently of gray and white plaid, with
a coat of oyster white cloth. A double
breasted vest of white satin and a belt
of the cloth were dressy notes of this
Altogether clothes were never more
beautiful than . they are today, are
there never was a time when greater
opportunity has been afforded to beau
ty in the name of fashion. As long as
a woman is refined she will make Hie
most of the present modes, usually to
the bst advantage, but the moment
she has a common streak in her it is
bound to crop out in some ordinary
features of her dress, so why blame the
styles? CATHERINE TALBOT.
Complexions to Suit the Season
This Miss' Street 5uit Is Delightfully
"Ol'NR girls th's fall have some ir.lnhty kco.i inr-king froion that are
1 1 " fi r ii I s:id r tiir sam- t.m- n:rrtnr' Mnart The illustration shows a
nirty liitiv suit or navy baie luvetn trimmed with li.Hr.ds of tux fur
TT AVE you bought your new fall
complexion yet? You had better
get busy, for you won t be able to wear
jour last season's one. as styles in skin
colorings have changed completely,
says a Paris correspondent.
In the afternoon women who follow
the motles ano.nt th:r faces not with
; while or cram powder, but with yei-
!nv. p.xste. which makes ihetn look l.ke
! Indians once removed. The skin is not
j red. and it is not yellow either, but a
! dark rich color is tlie result, and. real
) ly. after becoming acrustomei to It.
I one grows l ftn J the white face faded
and lifeless. This complexion came to(
stay at the Grand Prix, one cf the
great French race meets, where women
wear their newest styles in frocks and
complexions Since this meet half the
women seen In fashionable attire j
"wear the yellow skin. It is becoming!
to both blonds and brunettes, though
especially to the latter.
In the evening the aj'.fron is not the
complexion desired, for under arti
ficial light the color loses its clearness,
so a violet hue is use-1 This tint, like
the other, is fascinating, and compli
ments are returned, for the violet looks
best on the woman of lightish hair ami
eyes. The effect of this color Is not
deathlike, as might be imagined, but it
gives the skin an indescribable tin.ee
of lavender that is rosy, yet far. too,
from pink. With this new complexion
and the fashionable gray hair Paris i
going beyond itself. As in the time of
Martha Washington, the white or gray
haired beauty now rules.
Blonds do not adopt the gray wig. or.
at leas!, those with gray or har.el eyes
do not. The gray hair looks best with
the black or brown eyed heroine. a:ui.
as a matter of fact, only sueli colorings
In Paris adopt the wis The wig ii
anointed, then r.avpd lightly.
Chic Velvet Model For Milady When
She Plays Bridge
j 'J'HE season's tendency toward the Use of fur trimmings Is distinctly seen In
j tins costume of velvet ar.d chiffon iie.sr.rr.ed for an afternoon bridge party,
j The edging of skunk 'ur gives a piquant touch to the tunic of golden broa
chiffon, which is mounted over a skirt of matching velvet.
Up to Date and Practical Ideas For the Twentieth Century Housewife
Manners of tbc Modern Child
JE'f'l.i: w !io make it their biis.r.oss
to find fault .lh tie- rising gen
eration tell us tlial modern i Ir.lirrn
have no mantlets They r'v allowed
more freedom than It good for them
and are ewiiuraKcd to la'k openly and
imply beforo their elders. Thrirtas'es
are coniulted and their Wishes toui!
ered In a nay Hint must sun 'y bo
morally and mentu'ly hurtful to them.
Now. there ere to sides to every
question, and In th.s case there Is much
to be snld In favor of the abused mod
em child It Is true that he has far
fewer prim little tricks tlmn his grand
father possessed, but it does not fol
low that lie is less courteous.
The maligned American child whose
rertness has been Fkltted in a hundred
comic papers and bewailed in as many
serious tracts is really not such a bad
little person after all. He may be rath
er forward for his age. but at least he
! simple and fearless. It never occurs
to him that he need Hush or giggle or
wrlths himself into knots when l.e
tneets strangers. He marches through
lif with his bead up and his shoulders
squared, taking things pretty much as
rie finds thera and fending for himself
With a large amount of common sense
trhlch 1 often disguised by a careless
The shr. timid, awkward boy of the
past feneration compares very unfa
vorably with this specimen. The mod
ern child Is not a nuisance to the ada't
who meets him for the first time. It
Is not always necessary to make con
versation for him. You do occasionally
meet one who seems capable of enter
taining himself In a rational menner.
And this state of greater ease between
children and adults is largely the re
cult of the greater freedom which peo-
l' so (Jeepiy deplore nr. 1 regret.
It is by no ir.e.- ns a bad thing that
eli.lftren should every now F.nti then be
allowed to follow their own ir. linii:o:;s.
Tli"y are at bottom a very polite lit'.ie
people, anil Hie small boy who ha. Is
oii with the cheery salutation and
Khou'.s out "Hello, old sport!" or what
ever our jiicknain- happens to lie
docs so iq a spirit quite as friendly as
that whieh prompted his grandfather
to offer a limp little hand and say. "I
trust I see Jou very well, dear Uncle
No, modern chi'dren are not becom
lr a tribe or hooligans They ate
merely becoming a race of natural lit
tle burnon beings. The inevitable
process of evolution ts by no means a
matter for unmixed regret. In these
hurrying times even children live fast
If their precious moments nre spent In
cultivating a thousand "pretty primy"
ways something more Important will
have to be nrg'ected.
!v rest content to let the artificial
manners go and direct your energy to
ward cultiv ating that real kindness and
good feeling which are mote Important
than all the society tricks and phrases
in the world.
ISUch Is the Very
"COMFY" SLEEPING CAP.
IKE custom of sleeping out of doors
is becoming so popular that there
are now many devices for making it
possible to sleep outdoors and still en
Joy all the comforts of an indoor bed.
One of these articles is a cap which
covers the head and goes well over the
cheeks and forehead, with a cape por
tion that extends over the neck. It is
fashioned of soft knit cloth, with a
pretty touch of color in the silk bind
ing and a silk tie under the chin.
t Housecleaning Days Are Here
x ; ., v
V r 7 :f
rJ,HEF.E are styles In hcisa furnish
ings as in everything else, as every
woman knows, and what these new ;
styles are to be is Interesuug to the;
housewife at present. There have been'
in recent jears empire periods, onen-
la! seasons and Iouis Quir..e styles, j
end all of tliem have been popular for i
a moment of time.
At present there is a tendency to- j
ward the modern and individual in
house furnishings. As far as furniture
is concerned this may be due to the
tremendous amount of "fake"' antique
stuff which baa flooded the market for
Most women are tired of being fool
ed, and they prefer to have things that
are frankly modern, copied from old
designs preferably, but of undoubted
twentieth century workmanship.
The crane for black decoration ts
more pronounced than ever this sea
son. The latest evolution of this mau
soleum Idea is the black bathroom.
The floor is made of some kind of new
asphalt preparation which Is poured
on. hardens and can be scrubbed or
polished until it resembles ebony.
The woodwork and walls of this
bathroom are black, with a ceiling of
gold. The mirror is of black glass, and
In the center or the room is a tube of
black marble. The woman for whom
this bathroom was arranged was de
lighted with it. but it is doubtful if
many people would care (or such an
Kooms are no longer kept In one
period. It used to be the height of bad
taste to put an empire piece in a Chip
pendale room, but at present It is quite
customary to see perfectly correct
drawing rooms composed of a mixture
of Sheraton, early Italian. Georgian
and any other period the owner pre
fers. The post-lmpresslonist and futurist
cretonnes and tinted linens are to be
used a great deal this autumn, and
these will appeal to the woman whose
pocketbook is too slim to a fiord more
These washable materials are very
beautiful, especially the futurist ones
in vivid colors, with a picture hidden
until you search for It. They lend a
necessary brightness to the subdued
tones of ultra modern rooms.
fine homemade Candy
'JARFHMALLOW FUDGE. If your!
; so uitiiiii w s nei a unit; pi.c
before using them up try making this
kind of fudge Put two cupfu's of
granulated sugar and oai? cupful of
mi'.k in s aueepan and let It come to a
boil. Add one square and a half of
chocolate grated and two tablespoon
fu!s of butter Cook about ten min
utes; then remove from the fire and
beat until the fudge gets rather stiff,
but not so stiff that it will not pour
easily. Preak marshmailows Into sev
eral pieces, place in the bottom of the
dish and pour the fudirc over them.
Turkish Delight. This is a candy
somewnat after the order of gumdrops,
but more delicate. Soak two table
spoonfuls of gelatin In one-third of a
cupful of cold water. When dissolved
add one cupful of granulated sugar and
set it on the stove to boil for twenty
minutes, adding the Juice of h?lf a
lemon and half an orange. When tafcen
from the fire pour In one teaspoonful
of strawberry juice and a quarter of a
curful of chopped nuts. When cool cut
in small squares and roll In red sugar.
Chocolate Peanut Taffy. Put all
these ingredients into a granite kettlei
One. pound and a half of white sugar,
half a cupful of water, quarter cupful
of cider vinegar, lump of butter the
size of a. nut ar.d three tablrispoonfuls
of grated chocolate. Boil these with
out stirring until a lifle dropped in
water becomes crisp. Have ready some
shelled peanuts and stir thickly
through the candy. Drop la small
pieces on buttered paper.
Information for tbc Rome Sewer
initial worked In fillet crochet
with fine thread and a very fine'
crochet hook can be inset into a hand
kerchief with good effect. This is
something new and is esp'.'ially at-
tractive :th a f.ne crochet eiicing.
The handkerchief should first be hem
stitched with a parrow hem. Draw i
only three threads and . take four
threads lor the stitch if you wish a
Hoirl.ll. fin.oV... f.lou
i'artly worn caniask tablecloths c.-:n
be utilized for tray cloths and doily
luncheon s-ts for everyday ure. P.y
holding the cloth to the light the good
portion can cusily be distinguished.
Cut the good part into centerpieces,
doiles. tray cloths, etc.
The Famous Windmill Hat
A BRUSH FOR EVERY NEED.
trOL'SETVOHK almost dos itself nowadays with these brushes for every pes
s.ble kind of cleaning of house, furr.it-jre. c!o:h'ng ard even dishes sad
lood. In 1S in the Inventory of a rich Dutch burgher of New Amsterdam
ixsocg his household effects were enumerated thirteen scrubbing brushes, twen-
four pounds of Spanish op and seven iil-.er brushes. How his thrifty wite
' 4pprei'il the up to iu: cltacuia cuiitrivanes to be tcto in this picture.
T OVERS of chocolate will be delight
ed to have It served to thera in
G'.nori ware, a modern Italian pottery,
with designs of the renaissance. The
talL slender pot and high cups are
of white porcelain, rimmed with bands
I of gold on which are painted tiny ap
! pies, pears and other fruits. The pot
1 baa a bandie and cover of gold.
STARCH FOR MUSLINS.
AflX a small quantity of corn flour
i smoothly with cold water This
; will be found excellent for lightly stiff
1 er.ir.g all delicate and la.-y fabrics,
j includ.rg veils and neckwear or sheer
TRY THIS MELON DELIGHT.
JELON" delight is a novel and re
freshing dessert. As In ail des
serts calling for cantaloupe, only those
of the finest -flavor should be used. Cut
the melons lengthwise, in halves or
thirds, according to size. P.emove the
seeds and spongy tissue. Fill eaeh with
vanilla ice cream and some very thin
siices of fresh peaches. Decorate with
two or three maraschino cherries and
the liquor In which they come before
Occasionally when Ice cream la
served with these melons the pulp ia
scooped out. diced ar.d flavored and
then returned t? the shell with the
cream and other garnishes. The vari
ous flavors are ic that case more likely
to be amalgamated If one considers
that desirable. Usually the flavors In
such sweets are better for being kept
PRETOXNE slips to put 'over frocks
that are hanging in the closest or
wardrobe are convenient. .They are
made rf two pieces of cretonne, cut In
semicircular outline, a little bigger
than a dress hanger. They are seam
ed together about the curved edge, m ith
a little opening left for the cerk of the
To the straight edge two long,
straight sections cf cretonne are gath
ered, long enough to corae tohe twjt
tom ot the frock. These straight pieces
can be seamed together or fastened
with tapes or socket fasteners.
b y- s -'
Cbe Modern aoman OlUl J
find Cbcsc Useful
GIVE THEM VARIETY.
JJON'T let meals in your house grow
monotonous, mnke it a rule to try
at least two new recipes every week,
and when anything Is specially ap
proved of make a note of it In a little
book kept for the. purpose.
But there is danger even In getting
a particularly good recipe. For there
is an almost overwhelming temptation
to use it again and again till one's
family grows weary of the very sight
of the resulting dish.
Make it a rule never to repeat a pud
ding within a fortnight unless there Is
some very special reason for doing so.
With meat dishes It Is more difficult
to get variety, but no cold Joint should
appear more than twice at the outside.
If a family reach the "What, cold beef
again!" stage the housekeeper is tail
ing in her mission.
2.2T . - - .IV- 4-4X ....';','- - Wi."
- ' . fed
l t". v i- - $m
KSBh Ms hpi' If
BLACK VELVET AND TULLE MODEL.
pt-XLE 19 Vt most conspicuous fea
ture of fall m.lilnsry and. together
with velvet. "is making most of th l:n
looking creation of the season. It
seems hardly a suitable tarnc to cope
with wintry winds, but so it is wriiter.
in sartorial annals Yards and yards
of tulle or malir.es are swathed around
and over the crowns ot autumn fiats,
and plaiting and puffs of ibis d.aph-
nous fluff, are massed over hat
brims, Thi contrsjti between rhe 1e!
cat luiie and U . denser velvet ut
which most of the new hats ars niw
marie ix cry effective. If tlit lea.st little
L?.ci, it". 1-- much m vnsu's fr coai-
r.r.utiu.1 velvet. Some of the
mii?! recently brought over from ti.e
other side have wired brims ot black
lace with velvet brim:i
The e-tl'iisite ha; pictured was first
slnwn on this side of the water on u
moving picture fashion screen. It Is
of black velvet with one of the new
-tulTe.windrriili bows fbai a Puna milli-.
eel has ir.a-J'j famous.
EGGS AND MILK.
JTGOS are very nutritious when tVen
raw or lightly boiled or poached.
Hard boiled cgss. on the contrary, are
extremely Indigestible. Milk Is a per
fect and complete food for" the very
young and for old and feeble people,
but for the average adult it Is not suf
ficient alone.. It certainly contains
both food ami drink, but ihe food Is
hnnted In quantity and not sufficient to
mnke good the tissues waste Incurred
by the active life of a full grown man
or woman In vigorous health. A strict
m.lk d.et has. however, been proved to .
be tfTuacioii.s in such opposite cases as
extreme emaciation and excessive
stoutness. In the latter case the cream '
Is lirst removed, and In both cases the"
milk r:i- n combined with reat in bed
NOVEL heart shaped s-ent tag 1a
r.v.!lt of white silk marqju'ette end
Is h'.ied with lined ross. additionally
perfumed with the caturil odor of the
flowts. The tame Idea may be ef
fectively carried out In violets or lav
enler Tne rose and the violet ara
particularly good for perfuming the
conter.fi nf wardrobes, trunks and so
forth, imparting the delnate fragrance
of the natural 'lower to the clothing.
The luvendi r b.rK are appropriate f or
perfiimms the linen chc-i't The drle.1
Mowers :r. tin ir n;n:a! colorings are.
visible through trs maniutbett cases,
makina thiin vt-ry eitiactive.
v. - a
cupfuls of tug. r. four ctipfuls
flour, nnn'l r.-id of one lemon
one-lialf cupful of line chopped citron.
one teaspoo'ifui cinnamon. on-haif
laspoonful cloves, or.e-lialf tempoon
ful mace, one-half tablespoonf ul nut
meg, two Senspoonf uls baking powder,:
f.ve. egg". Sift flour, baking powder,
npices and sugar, add the citron and
lemon r.od and m.x to a dough with
trie beaten rggs Shape inlo small'
balls the size of a hickory nut. Place
one in ti npin on, a b.uierfcd tin uai
take in uiuuuralc oven.
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