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( A - 2?f fg lllfi -Jf -if.: HATS ARE DARING, BUT HAVE GREAT: VARIETY AND VERVE r &v -J ' rN l-V " ' , - . - " " II :"' BLACK VELVET SCOOP. i .... ,. I NEW AND VERY Sf 'ART VELVET MODEL WITH A SMALL HAT NOW fF you want jour new fall hat to hnve tin- r.lu fht.- nml line thp tiair ir.ut .l drtoed h'.K'i. li.r the iTuwn. or. roller. t!ie hpad ize." to us- u milhni-ry Ivrm, ts fmnll ef thin yt-ar; con wiurntly the co.Turc must h? h:h u:i1 8i:i!l enonph t tit comfort.-iljiy mil) this hat space. Th diim!r.Mnt fi-nture of the m-w hut Is Its' outrncrou:n'fn whin viev.frl nff the hend. but when it ! wi-!l .oc'l on tlu. weurrr there in a Uuliglittal reason for thin daring In other ra.nn. the r'.irht l1e of a millinery rn atioo w;ia to (trove un becoming, even o- the smartest models. low on the brim t the right side, or a Every prospect wan i!eua:ng except the ' knot of ribbon dirt the trick. On the WIRED CHANTJLLY BRIM. view from this ancle. This autumn, however, the defect has been over come, and one no Inr.Rer hr.rs the re mnrk. "! Just love this hat from every aide except the nsht, which is per fectly impossible." To please the customer the milliner was obV.ged to Introduce a h'.ice ros nnrrow In front and rise to an extreme, placed an enormously high and slender height ;n the back, I poura fancy The price of this chef A stunning correction of Parisian I d'oeuvre is J40. orisln . is a turban scmewhat on the j A feature of mr.ny of the smartest order of a Turkish fez. to which ban hats is a narrow un'Jerbrim not unlike been added a deep, close upstanding j a bandeau Kc.m'e of the most effective brim. This shape Is covered with i have soft black velvet crowns with the moleskin dyed an exquisite pinkish J high back br-.m mad" of chantilly lace, mauve Where the bfim is slit in a V! shaped and wired. One of the hats II- new models the brim, as a rule. r.i'.Is on the risht aide, which settles the question. And. apropos of hr.ms. the most striking characteristic of the new shapes In the extremely hiRh. flarinij brims Usually brims of this kind are Such a creation la nuite within the ken of the amateur milliner Eccentric ideas are not confined to the high tlarins brims. As an instance of this there is a half and half sailor Half or the crown and half of the brim are of black plush and the other halves are of white plush, running lengthwise of the hat. The trimming consists of shaped opening directly in front 18 I lustrated is carried out In this manner i a couple of odd lookin roses, one black and the other whit", placed flatly on . In voRtie Is pictured among the cuts. the crown and on the back brim. The crown Is of soft hunter a green This model is one of the many de- velvet, and an extremely hlph feather cidedly small, quaint styles which are Is of the numidi variety. A fur band ing edges the high nare brim. Very original is. the blnck velvet scoop illustrated, which is without a crown. It rests flit over the face, while the back curves up In funnel fashion over a tisht cap of gold lace. A hand of ribbon encircles th head and tics in a bow over the right ear. This is a charming little hat for an afternoon bridge party or a formal luncheon. To come back to hat trimmings, a form of ostrich much !n favor Is a two or three headed plume, which, when placed upright, falls In shower pom pon effect. The butter"" carried out In tulle has become crmiTioTi but in ostrich It conies into its own npain. It is mount ed on a hish ostrich quill, so that every movement of the W'-arer's head aets the butterfly In motion. Duvetyn has been ufed so much In the cheaper models that exclusive milliners are dis carding this Ideal fabric. In a deep gold color it is exploiting itself In number of crown effects. "Tete de negre" (or negro head) brown Is a very morV.nh .millinery color. Taupe, prunella, rich deep navy. and golden brown are among the prominent colorings of the season. CATHERINE TALBOT. more or leas an outgrowth of modern art.' While the conventional tarn shapes are not regarded with a special de gree of favor, beret or tar.i crown ef fects are decidedly popular and fetch -irg The high draped tarn ruche which generally appears as a sort of upper brim in conjunction with a narrow underbrim is much in evide nce. A stunning model In black and white has a full soft crown o? white velvet. Tho rim 1 of btnrtf ve'v.t yhnrl In v- & 'front and n:irrov on tho sides, with a tVut !' W&s ihiS" tto'e i" tue bk. The crown is ' encircled with a double velvet ribbon lapped in front under a I'.it velvet but ton. The endr of the velvet ribbon are drawn through sashes on the back of the brim and tied in a la rye bow in the back. Ribbon stlckups are very good this year Most of them are at least twelve Inches high, and the most luvored ef fects are in plaited spiral and cornu copia forms These fancies stand up directly in the center fronts of the hats IJcrS'i e of tVe high cost of paradise plumes and the embargo laid upon the sales of heron the goura. numidi und coq are being popularized. One of the unusually small hats now HIGH WIRED COLLARS ON SMART GOWNS a Your first "General" and F)ov? to Intcraevv4 fier HRT high collars of transparent material make unnrt additions to many of the best creut.ocs of the sea son. This sown of Chinese blue bro- GREAT deal of the trouble some youn housewives have with their servants is due to the things they say or forget to say when they engage them. If you reiulrc your maid to wear a cap. for cxrn.rte. be sure to tell her so at the first interview. Don't do .o un- pected of her. so tf you want her to: undertake all or cr.y of the household ! washing say so at once. Tell her what! her nights off will be und ask ' her whether she has friends or relatives In' the netphborhood. ' I If she has your responsibilities will be much Lessened. Ii she has not you : FURNISHING THE NEW HOME pleasantly r.r abruptly or she well put j must make up your mind t.t lind her yon Uowr. as a tyratit at once. Just s:;y. "I dn't Stsosr whether you have been accis'.omed to wearing capr.. but I 3lvml! lil.e you to do so when j you are w Te mal.I .will protri?ty i;..t ir.ai; any objection 1" i she is really kctr. ot: Ktt ng tho place. I li'jt it joa d"ii't put the rolnt quite iittie errands to do for you in her spare time so thit she may not be re duced to the dull and aimless wander ing that Is often the fate of girls com inc into strange pl.'iccr. Then you should mcUe it quite clear to her that e '.vill sometimes be left in charge ; the houji. S.iy "When ch-nrly nt first she will be cble to nay; you go out I Khali have to be left alone, afterward, "I rever understood thatj so when I go out you mustn't mind be yo j) minded, ma'am." and will ret out j lug left alcr.e also." It is most tire of the duty on every possiMe occision. i some for a youns; mistress when she Aft r all. It is only fair thtt tl-e girl j wauls to g out to visit her relatives or should iii:o- at the oi:!.t what : ex-i friends to find that .V.ury- in the kitchen is "dreadfully nervous" and "not used to being left alone." You should also make sure that your prospective maid has gingham d; esses, ccps and aprons and u black dress. Finally, don't treat the girl as though she were ulready your servant. Re- I member that as yet you have not the s'ightest claim upon her and that any suggestion of proprietorship In yourj voice or manner will be very strongly iesented. At the same time It Is not fair to let her go away with the idea that you mean to treat her as a sort of com panion. Many would be mistresses go to the extreme of being too familiar when they interview their first serv ant. They are so very anxious to se cure her that they speak in a way that doesn't "do" afterward, and then they accuse the girl of being too "free and easy." ;-1 Lai Wr',' 1; t HI-.: - J $ , ism KETCHUP TIME IS HERE jTHE following recipes for ketchup . blades of mace, half an ounce of black ! x .are extremely good acd perfectly pepper and one-fourth of an ounce of reliable: I allspice berries. Boi! twenty minutes. Grape Ketchup. j pour lnto Jug. cover lightly and let Five pounds of srapea. stewed. " 8t1and vrneh. strain It through a mashed ad rubbed thfough a strainer ! .""J?0"! a oil Add a pint of vinerar. three pounds of ' lDe n ,JJi Add a pint sugar, one 'Vsl I teaspoonfu! t I cinnamon I A Or CHINESE PLt'K CRAPrl EHOCADED one tablepoonful of spice, one teaspoonful each of ground cloves. and black pepper nd half a . teaspoonful of slt. Bed all together unt:'. thick, then eeaL 't Mushroom Ketchup. Teel four qurrta of mushrooms, cut ' them into small pieces and put them Into a deep pan Dry six ounces of salt in the oven and sprinkle It over them. Cover with a cloth and let stand four days and turn once every twer.ty- caded crape has a scm:tr?.nsprent Damson Ketchup. Stone the damsons and weigh them, then blew and rub through a coarse sieve. To each pound of thu rnitt add a pint of - rinesrar. three pounds of sugar, three tenspoonfuls of spice, two of black pepper, one of salt, three of cinnamon and one of mace Hoil these until thick, stirring all the time. When cold bottle and seaL Horseradish Ketchup . Mix together three cupfuls ot freshly norseraa-.sn. three tablespoon four hours with a wooden spoon: then lKXl.ce over a white lace guimpe. and j put them in a porcelain lined kett-e an J j fuls each of mustard and sugar, one the tall iredici. collar is part t thellet them simmer gently for twenty j cutfal each of rincgar and olive oU. a (-jimp The tunic is dropped above I minutes in taea own uquor airain i.tiie sail, onion Juice and cayenne pep piaited skirt U iansdowr.. ' lh "luor into a stewpan add four 'per. This is ery good with roast beet To Free Brushes From Germs yHEX brushes, both for the hair and tecih. are washed they nhould always havo a final rirsa In an t. septic water. Only in this way can the germs which nourish in dust be v.-holly eliminated. There Is no better way of doii-'g this thr.n by plungir.s them into boiling water. All instruments used by surgeons p.re cleansed In this w-ay. he'rg put immediately into pans r.nd kept at boiling tempsratura for several m;a u'es. Wood, of course, and bristles could not stand such heroic treatment, and for that reason It Is better to have a we ik solution of carbolic acid and put some of it into the witer. AntiEepT!.? gauze is another article that particular women ore usirs now. While r.ot precisely cheap. It cannot he called expensive, end as a face cloth it can be used a couple of times before being thrown away. Every physician now deprecates strongly the use of handkerchiefs for bad head colds and favors gauze, cut tr.to twe've inch squares, that must be turned when soiled. In this way any danger of canms'on to those in the same household is avoided. In travel ing a few yards of (rauze may be car ried and wab cloths cut o3 as re quired. LIMA BEANS MADE DIGESTIBLE. HERE are many who cannot eat lima "beans without having slight attacks of indigestion The neit time you cook these beans try adding a pinch of soda, in the water while they are cooking. They will agree with you perfectly if prepared in this way. . GOME one said recently. "Sentiment has been the ruin of more house hold color schemes, than almost any thing eire." It Is certainly true that the clinging to old family portraits of j no artistic value and tif ornaments and , furniture that were never worthy of ! considers tlon save, for, the fact thatj "mother liked them" is tlr cause of; much of the clutter and 'ugliness of many homes Of course it Is not always possible to renovations that are Inexpensive. If the varnish is removed from an undesirable piece of furniture and it is sandpapered and a new tirish put on, the piece will take on an entirely dif ferent' appearance. For bedroom fur niture enamels In white and pale col oring make Charmingly dainty effects and fit the rejuvenated furniture beau tifully for the new home. Where heavy furniture cannot be dispensed with or altered it may be ... : - . ... .. . .... . , ... : fault ( - ' y f;r4hi iA 'i m fc , . . ri OLD CHIPPENDALE CHAIR3, relegate these undesirable possessions to a deserved limbo, but there is a way to give ev;n this affliction a grace. The idea) way to furnish a new house, with Its white woodwork, ma hegany doors and 'glis knoLs. is to buy entirely new furniture xuited to each room. What most houselteciers hae to do when moving into new quarters Is to change the cuior of the furniture when tt does not tone In with the M-heme. Naturally one would never under any circumstances' tamper with old mahogany furniture ,or anything really, good., but . stuff . that .is not "oenod" has many possibilities lor given a llghtes appearance by using cretonne slips for the lounge and chairs, as well as forinslde curtains. A pretty cretonne matching the wall paper almost transforms ur.attractivw furniture. In buying furniture for the new home one cannot go far wrong if she is able to pick up really old furniture or if shs buy3 new fhioned on the old lines. The colonial articles are always lovely, because they are essentially, simple. The illustration shows how some ( Ch'.pp-jndaie chairs brought rflstinc 1 tlon to a living room dune in English ' chintz. ITS TflE WAY CLOTHES ARE WORN THAT COUNTS a JT'S not so much what you wear as how you wear it." paraphrased a young business woman when ati asso ciate asked her for the secret of her trim appearance. Observation proves it. There are certain little traits of dress which the best dressed women ncquire. They seldom allude to them. Hut it is either by chance or Intuition I hey practice these little arts, whlcb are certainly worth while. The perfectly groomed woman, for example, is always sure that the back of her collar tits Bntr.tly and Is never pinr.ei over a hnlf inch or more to one side. If the collar becomes a little large or stretched she does not thrust In an ordinary pin. but runs In llttlo tucks or plaits on each side of the fas tening, thus canning a neat, trim ef fect. And another, little point known to I he groomed wo.nrn a rent bought shirt walr.ts is that the sleeves at the wrists are apt to be too large, so she runs little tucks In the cuffs or she re moves the hool.s and eyes and takes up the seam until the eleeve fits per fectly. Many women do not realize that sleeve perfection is often the weakest part of a ready made garment, and a little time taken in alteration wilt work wonders in this direction. : Then a word lo women who aim al ways to wear immaculate white. Do r.ot overlook the bsnd of your panami or outing hat, whatever It be. The black marks from a hatpin are far from attractive. It Is a simple matter to change the hatband several times dur ing the summer The adjusting of the veil with a little forethought is an ab solute necessity with tho small hat ol to-lay. When dotio satisfactorily th tiny chapvnu becomes a thing of beau ty. If a veil is put on too hurriedly the hair is sure to be too flat against the face. The right way to don a veil with the cmnll hat is first to put It around the throat and fasten It with a tiny hairpin at the nape of the neck All of the fullness of the veil should be disposed here rather than on the hat. The object In putting on the veil is to press the hair upward, thus avoid ing the flat look of the ordinary straight locks. The well dressed woman' Is wearing the dark brown hair ret veil, whlcb ran be drawn snugly, but Is not con spicuous against the face. ABOUT EG3 STAINS. T7T;G stains should be soaked In cold water oeiore goinc to the laundry If this is done the stain will come out easily. Hot water sets them. - ' V- t'A