Newspaper Page Text
vEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 27, 1922.
The White Dress Old-Fashioned Snowy Gown Has Returned to Favor. Not® of Color, Formerly In Sash, Now Spreads Over Garment in Form of Embroideries. The old-fashioned white dress has rome back with variations, observes e fashion correspondent in the New York Tribune. In outline it is sim ple, simpler than it ever was. It may be only a straight chemise frock but the note of color which in the old days appeared in a sash now spreads Itself over a large part of the dress In the form of embroideries. While the embroidery is profuse the designs are very simple and usually in brilliant colors. Red is a favorite color for the en livening note on white dresses. Some times the embroideries are In frosted silver threads, making the garment like a fairy robe. Then there are white dresses of the greatest simplicity in the slip-over ttie-head style, having nothing to dis tinguish them but a girdle consisting of ropes of beaus, frequently jade. Such dresses may be cut in scallops at the bottom, tl»e scallops, of course, being bound by hand. These gowns are most effective when worn with broad drooping brimmed hats with brilliant flowers such as zinnias. Mauve crepe maro?aln makes a charming dress. A beautiful note of contrast is given by red flowers fall- Model of Mauve Crepe Marocain With Ruby Trimming. Ing down one side of tha skirt. The hat. of white horsehair braid, is trimmed In two shades of violet and red, thus completing a most effective costume. It is fitting that shawls should be worn with these quaint frocks so reminiscent of the fashions of by gone days, and so we have the eve ning wrap, which is a sha I deeply fringed and worn across the shoulders in Spanish style. Ukrainian Embroidery. Ukrainian embroidery in ti)e most gorgeous colors is seen on some of the newest stockings. Sometimes it is introduced in the form of clocks at either side, but it Is newer to have the design in front over the Instep. USE PUFFED AND CRINKLED SILKS ■■■ ■ VI Matlazette Is Name Given to One of the New Fabrics for the Fall Season. The new novelty silks for fall that typify the season’s mode are puffed and crinkled and might be styled as variations of the choky introductions of Paris that have been such n pro w nonneed success. One of the most adaptable of the new silks for the com ing season makes Its appearance under the name of matlazette, and Its Irregu lar weave promises a very interesting medium for the fall silhouette. The face of matlazette Is finished In a dull satin effect which is very rich and the buck of this fabric is crepe, finished In such a manner that it Is practically reversible. Matlazette. as the name Implies, gives one the same impression ns the Irregular surface of troubled water, and Its fine texture makes It a tempt ing material for developing the long graceful drapes of the fall mode. Another silk that Is called pebble back satin Is a decided crepe of pro nounced character that Is also reversi ble. Tills material might be called one of the conservative crinkled silk? and It has n decided nppenl. Although novelties continue to be Introduced, It Is said that the demand for plain cantons and satin cantons Is tremendous and premises no let-up for the coming season. Cue of their most charming fiat finished crepes Is called crepe princess, and It achieves a great deal of tone In its semi-lustrous sur face. Ti e body and weight of this ttepe an* particularly* desirable and ONE OF THE NEWEST MODES w wk Sr WwzL ■ t - Av. : U[i V ■ J' ; 1 ■'J Thii it one of the dashing new out door models recently shown at the merchandise fair of the National Garment Retailers* association, held in New York. It 1“ made in narrow Ukranian braid, Joined to make the skirt and jacket match by trimming with same braid. SHADES FOR SPORTS CLOTHES Chine and Jaspee, Two New Colors Offered in Paris—Craze for Knitted Suits. Paris Is showing an interest in sports clothes hitherto unknown. This is a season in which this type of dress takes the front line in fashion’s ranks. French women who have never in dulged in out-of-door sports to any extent now consider it very chic to play golf and tennis, and those who do not play consider It chic to wear the same type of clothes. The Purls dressmaker is awake to this fact and ineludes among her newest models many interesting novelties In sports wear garments. A veritable craze has sprung up for knitted two-piece suits and two-piece dresses in the new colors known as chine and jaspee. The former is a multicolored yarn either in wool or silk, and the latter is one color mixed with white, imitating as It were jasper. To be really chic one must wear either jaspee or chine knitted suits, sweaters, dresses or blouses. And in addition to these there is every Imaginable type of accessory for sports wear—the hat. the girdle and the bag. Many of these are being de veloped In leather with embroideries of straw and applications of ham mered metal. There is a vogue for basket-woven handbags and purses done in bright sports colors. The leather hat, particularly in suede and morocco, is being brought out in smart new effects. Effects More Trim. Though Paris sends gowns with pointed panels, fluttering ribbon ends hanging below the hem, and sashes that trull upon the floor fashionable women are turning from these frocks to those more trim in outline. Though *-.he uneven hem is still noted, the tat* •ers are rapidly vanishing. are used extensively for those gowns of more dignified mien. One New York manufacturer in keeping with the latest demands, has a most Interesting collection of men’s fehlrtlng silks prepared especially for the women’s trade. The tiny Jacquard patterns In this assortment are quite unusual and every known variation of striped effects gives a wide range for the use and combination of summer colors. “Tub Text’* silk is another one of the silks being featured. This fab ric belongs to the radium family, and. ns Its name implies, combines all that If practical with much that is beau tiful. Outing Coats. The separate flannel or Jersey out ing coat is enjoying popularity. Whether with or without sleeves, this garment Is ns useful as any modistes Lave so far invented, and it has a distinction all Its own. A navy jersey coat In the new, fairly long style, with thxedo front, Is the Ideal thing to set off the accordion plaited white silk skirt, the skirt of wide plaid in which there is a line of navy, or the frock of silk crepe or Jersey In prlmarj colors. Bam Take Place of Bands. Rhinestone bars and combs, circu lar or fan shape In design, have taken the place of coiffure bands. Black and White. Black monkey fur is an effective trimming for n dinner gown of white georgette crepe. (Copy for Thio Department Supplied by the American Le/rlon News Service.) WAR RECORDS OF GRANDDADS Mrs. Edward W. Burt of North Caro lina Working on Hereditary Society Plan. “Granddad, what did you do during the war?” will be the special query of the young Amer icans of the next generation that i Mrs. Edward W. Burt of Salisbury, N. C., has set her self out to an swer. Mrs. Burt Is chairman of the American Le glon Aux 11 i ary committee to per petuate the organ ization in a he reditary society. f ~ \ A* sM The Auxiliary, in its present make up, is composed of mothers, wives, daughters and sisters of the members of the American Legion, and of the women of the same status who lost men in the World war. There Is no junior society to the Auxiliary or to the Legion, such as there is to other patriotic societies —fw instance, the Sons of the Revolution —but when a generation has passed undoubtedly such a society will come into existence. It is to prepare the way for an heredi tary society, composed of the daugh ters and granddaughters of World war veterans, that Mrs. Burt is working. Her plan will include incorporation Into the Auxiliary records of the w r ar records of the Legion men, so that future genealogists will have no trouble in locating the war records of their granddads. THE VETERAN OF SEVEN WARS Robert Bruce MacGregor of Seattle, One of Eleven Survivors of His Old Regiment. A veteran of seven wars at forty eight years of age, Robert Bruce Mac- Gregor of Seattle, Wash., says that his days on the battlefields are forever over and that he expects to devote the re roalning years of his life to peace ful activities. Mr. MacGregor served In the World war with the original Prln- | cess Pat regi- ment, which numbered 1,093 men in 1914. Eleven of that 1,093 are now alive and only two of the eleven can walk. Mr. MacGregor Is one of the two. He fought in the Philippines during the Spanish-American war, In China during the Boxer rebellion, in South Africa during the Natal rebellion, the Matabele uprising and the Jamieson raid. Twelve medals, four decorations and wounds which keep him constant ly under the doctor’s care constitute his spoils. Although Mr. MacGregor has left the battlefield, he believes that there are peacetime battles to be fought. He has been fighting unemployment in Seattle In behalf of the American Le gion for a number of months. He re cently landed jobs for 236 former sol diers. More than that, he Ims adopted and Is educating a fifteen-year-old boy. DESIGNS THE LEGION POSTER Drawing by Clarence Reeder, News paper Artist, Advertises the Big Meet at New Orleans. Nineteen New Orleans artists com peted in a contest for a poster to ad- vert Ise the Amer ican Legion na tional convention, but a former “top sergeant”, won the prize of SIOO. Clarence Reeder, staff artist of a New Orleans newspaper, who drilled rookies at Camp Pike during the World war. drew the winning poster. j' * ■* A Mk. The successful design represents a doughboy, a sailor and a marine in uniform, looking nt a guidebook, labeled “New Orleans, the Paris of the U. S. A.,*’ with a view of the famous French quarter below. Above the three figures are the Legion em blem and the words, “Oh, buddy, let’s go,” and ([below, “American) Legion National Convention at New Orleans, October 16-20.” Forty thousand copies of the poster will be sent to all Legion posts and will be on display In railroad stations in many parts of the country. Boycott Them. “Now, children,” beamed the Sun day school teacher, “who can suggest the lesson we are taught by the down fall of Samson? Very well, Georgle." “Don’t patronize women barbers. Ma’am.” —American legion Weekly. AUTUMN IS ALWAYS BEST TIME TO SELECT HENS FOR BREEDING •y?.' 1 'r' * Pullets That Begin Laying Early in Fall Mature Quickest and Will Make Desirable Additions to Breeding Flock. (Prepared by the United States Department of Agriculture.) The improvident man who sold his heating stove in July because the cir cus was near and the winter far off differs only in the degree of his short sightedness from the poultry raiser who waits until spring to select the breeding stock that is to he used to replenish his flock. This important work of picking out the superior birds must be done in the fall to get the best results, says' the United States Department of Agriculture, for it is then that the greatest contrast be tween the profitable birds and the poor ones shows up. Os course the culling out of the poor layers should go on all through the summer and fall, but at last the top-notchers should be selected as foundation for the coming flock, which ought to be better each year. Never Use Immature Pullets. One good rule to follow is to keep the pullets out of the breeding flock until they are fully matured. An im mature bird may be a good layer and may be from the best stock, but still it is undesirable. Eggs from pullets not yet fully developed will not pro duce as large or as strong chicks as those from older hens or fully grown pullets. There is no difficulty in know ing when a bird Is mature enough to be used as a breeder, as at that time the eggs laid will have reached the vlze of the average produced by the peneral run of hens in the flock. Young pullets always lay a rather small egg, sometimes very small at the start. Those that mature early may be picked out by keeping track of the birds that start laying first in the fall. These birds may be marked with leg bands, so that they will not be come mixed during the winter with those that start their work later. The late molters are the birds that ■tick to the job longer, and conse quently they make up another group that should be used in forming the breeding flock next spring. Leg bands may be used to distinguish these prof itable birds, or, better, the early mol ters may be marketed so that they will no longer have an opportunity to -keep down the average egg production of the flock. The general-purpose breeds, which include the Plymouth Rocks, Rhode Is land Reds, and Wyandottes, as a rule are not profitable after the second year. It is therefore advisable to cull out all of the older birds of this class. Os these, the late molters are the ones to select for breeders, as in the case of fowls of any other breed. But the selection of birds on the basis of age and time of molting is not all the preparation that need be made for raising the foundation for the new flock. The health and thrift of the fowls must be looked after carefully during the winter. After selecting the breeding birds the poul try house needs close attention. Keep ing it in sanitary condition is one of the important points; also the com fort of the house, which is closely con nected with the health of the birds. Fowls are very sensitive to moisture conditions, and these should be con trolled carefully by ventilation. When moisture from the fowls gathers on the ceiling and walls there is apt to be trouble soon. In cold weather this moisture may collect in the form of frost, but the heat from the sun in the middle of the day will melt the frost, and the water, dripping down, will make the litter wet. Hens are a good deal like sheep In their sensitive ness to wet feet, either in the house or when outside, and they cannot be kept in good health on damp litter. A sick hen is a hard proposition to deal with if you expect to get out with a profit on her. It is a lot cheaper to depend on dry litter than on medicines to cure colds and roup. Roup is the sequel of colds, and when it gets into i flock, as one poultryman puts it, rou are on the rocks. Plenty of fresh air in the house is a vell-recognlzed preventive of colds in Aumans, and it Is Just as efficacious In the case of poultry. The open front Douse with cloth curtains is the most practical means for the average Cock owner to keep the house thoroughly aired, and the fowls will not suffer ’rom the cold If the building has been properly planned; also the egg produc tion will keep up. By going into the bouse frequently in changing winter weather It will be easy to Judge of the >ondltion of the atmosphere and bring t to normal by adjustments of cur alns and windows. Moisture can be epl from •cumulating by opening up the house for a thorough ventilation on sunny days. The most successful houses, ns found by the experiences of hundreds of poultry raisers and by experiments of the Department of Agriculture and State experiment stations, are from 36 to 20 feet deep if the open-front plan is followed. From this point the nearer toward the front the fowls are moved the fewer eggs are produced. In smaller houses the relative proportion of openings in the front of the house must be reduced during the winter months in order to keep the fowls comfortable. Open fronts or openings covered with cotton cloth are most practical in deep houses. GET DATA FOR FIGHT ON WHEAT STEM RUST Government Expert in Europe Searching for Information. Doctor Stakman, Minnesota Patholo gist, Visiting Various European Countries, Making Detailed Study of the Disease. (Prepared by the United States Department of Agriculture.) In the hope of finding facts that will be of value in fighting the stem rust of wheat in this country, Dr. C. E. Stakman, agent of the United States Department of Agriculture and path ologist of the Minnesota Agricultural experiment station, is spending the summer in various countries of Eu rope making detailed studies of the oc currence and severity of the disease, especially with reference to its ap pearance on barberry bushes. He is also collecting much information on rusts In general. In France and Spain, where he vis ited the principal wheat-growing re gions, he found no stem rust on wheat, oats, barley or rye. Although there were many barberries, few of them showed any signs of this rust, but In Spain plant pathologists Informed him that the common barberry and an in digenous species are responsible for the early appearance of stem rust In the spring. Doctor Stakman reports great inter est In breeding and selection of wheat varieties resistant to this disease and emphasizes particularly the work of several eminent French Investigators. While traveling through France, Spain and Italy he found little stem rust, but this little was always asso ciated with barberry bushes. The con sensus of opinion In these countries Is that, although stem rust does occur re mote from the barberry, it develops later in the crop season and causes very much less damage than In those sections where the shrub is common. STUDY MANY FARM PROBLEMS There Are 1,960 Project, Dealing With Agronomy Being Worked Out by Experts. The state agricultural experiment stations are studying 4,770 specific problems relating to the agricultural Industry of the country, according to a compilation of project subjects re cently made by the United States De partment of Agriculture. Broadly grouped, there are 1.000 projects deal ing with agronomy subjects. Including field crops, soils and fertilizers, or about one-third of the total; 932 bo tanical and horticultural problems are under Investigation; animal-industry subjects, Including dairying and dairy products, comprise about one-eighth of the total, leaving three-eighths of the projects for all other subjects. SCRUBS BRING MUCH REGRET Aged Live Stock Owner Sorry He Did Not Begin With Purebred Cow* Year* Ago. “If I hnd started with a few pure bred cows 30 r 'ar* ago I would have something that I wou'.d be proud of now’ rather than n lot of nondescript animal*.’’ This remark was made to a representative of the United States Department of Agriculture by a live stock owner seventy-five years old. That even thb age is not too late to make a beginning is shown by the fact that he is a believer In purebred sire* and hl* herd, though not pure bred, contains some grade Holstein cows. SEVEN LIVE SiOCK “HOWTO GET THE LAST TICK” Much Valuable Experience Accumu lated by Scientists Given In Recent Circular. (Prepared by the United States Department of Agriculture.) As the territory infested by the cat tle tick gradually contracts under the pressure of eradication work, the dif ficulties in the way of farther reduc tion of the area Increase. In the 15 years since the campaign was started to starve and poison the tick out of existence, counties and states have been freed of the Insect at a rapid rate but there are knotty spots in the remaining ticky territory, and progress toward the goal of a tick-free country will be slower than in the past. However, those who are now en gaged in cleaning up infested country have the advantage of much valuable experience accumulated by scientists, veterinarians and local authorities, while more than 500,000 square miles were being made tickless. These fundamental facts, a knowledge of which is essential to those taking the lead in eradication, particularly the in spectors, have been gathered into a circular, "How to Get the Last Tick,” by W. M. MacKellar, one of the In spectors for the United States Depart ment of Agriculture who has had years of experience in various infested areas. The circular contains no new formu la, no panacea; it is classified experi ence of practical field men put into usable form for those who will have WWfc, Such Cowa as I nese Are Not Found in Ticky Territory. charge of the work of cleaning up the remaining ticky states and counties. Although it is designed principally for Inspectors, others who are interested in eradication work may get copies by addressing the Department of Agricul ture at Washington. CHANGE PIG PASTURE OFTEN Healthy Animals Become Infested With Internal Worms From Feed, Water and Soil. The main trouble which hog raisers have in raising pigs seems to be that when a trouble, such as worms, gets started in the lots, they let it spread too rapidly over the entire herd. Healthy pigs become infested with in ternal worms from feed, water and soil which has become infested by other pigs having the same trouble. The logical thing, then. Is to see that pigs have a frequent change of pas ture. This Is not so big a problem where they are given plenty of range. There are other desirable points In having o range of pasture for the growing pigs, although they can be raised successfully, and are so raised, in close quarters if these are kept clean. Dividing up a pasture and let ting the pigs run a while in each part will keep the pigs healthy and give the pasture 6 chance to come back when not in use. SUPERIOR CORN FOR SILAGE Some Grower* Can Use to Good Ad vantage Larger Variety—Choice Should Be Limited. “Generally the same variety of corn grown for grain production will prove satisfactory for silage also,” says Prof. A. C. Amy of the division of farm crops and farm management. Univer sity of Minnesota. "However, since ft Is not necessary that corn for good silage should mature beyond the be ginning of the dent stage before cutting, some growers, particularly those In the northern part of the state, can use to advantage a somewhat larger corn for this purpose. The choice should be limited to varieties which will pro duce ears that reach the beginning dent stage before killing frosts.’’ Pig* Grow Vigorously. On clover pasture and skimmed milk, with a little barley or oats, pigs grow rangy, strong and vigorous. They make quick and profitable gains when turned into the feed lots or corn fields. Young Pig* on Pasture. It is seldom if ever profitable to force young pigs to subsist on pasture alone. It Is generally more profitable to feed two pouudu or more of com per 100 pounds of pigs than to feed t lighter ration.