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THE YALE EXPOSITOR. THURSDAY, JULY 8, 1915. Permanent Styles in Fans There Is nothing very new to report In fans, and there hardly need be, for, like flowers, they suit us as they are. They are medium or small in size and composed of the fragile and fair materials we are used to. Silk gauze or lace or both combined make airy backgrounds for flowers painted in festoons and wreaths In miniature, but perfect art. Spangles, thicker than stars In the sky, sparkle over all. They were never so liberally used.' Ivory, mother of pearl, or wood, with much carving and picking out in gold or silver paint, form the sticks. Even in the least expensive fans there Is an unusual amount of beauti ful decoration. The Imitation Ivory sticks are quite as beautifully handled as the genuine. It takes a good Judge to tell the difference. Pans of white gauze with medallions and borders of princess lace braid and thickly spangled with tiny silver se quins have proved their captivating qualities by heading the list of "best sellers." In the month of roses, when graduates and brides must be remem bered, thl3 is the fan that Is scattered ! to all the points of the compass. Fans of black gauze with many spangles put on in a set design and scattered over the surface besides, have proved as alluring as ever. Small celluloid fans that may be carried In the handbag are deco About Shoes for Following In the shoe tracks of their elders, children and half-grown young people are wearing the best-looking and best-made shoes which have fallen to their lot so far. The correct styles for children as to shape are those that follow the shape of the foot, ' snug enough not to slip at the heel, and a tlttlo longer and broader than the feet hey are to clothe, with wide toes, flexible soles and low heels. The matter of shape disposed of, without room for mistake, there Is left a considerable latitude in choice Df design and finish. All on the same sensible last, plain, dressy and fancy jhoes have received almost as much attention at the hands of manufactur ers as those meant for older people &nd this Is saying a lot An attractive dress shoe for a child la shown in the picture, with white kid tnd patent leather combined in a graceful design. It fastens over the instep and ankles with cut-out straps buttoned over black buttons at the side. The neat machine stitching Is an Important feature In its finish. A flat ribbon bow decorates the toe. For the well-grown miss a pretty boot is shown with cloth top, .patent leather trimming and laced fastening. X f M : ' ' K', rated with gold border in set figures or are gay with paintefl flowers. One of these is a novelty ttavlng a small coin carrier at the basra of the stick, just large enough to hold dimes. Pret ty as they are, none of these fans are expensive unless one chooses those with pearl sticks or having much carv ing. Among the very cheap fans, such as sell for twenty-five cents or not more than fifty, the Japanese designs offer really good colorings and fas cinating surfaces. They are well made and more than tasteful; they are often fine examples of Japanese art. Knitted Silk Sports Coat. Knitted silk sports coatg are not sweaters. True, they can be used for many of the purposes for which a sweater la used, but there is quite a difference In the garments. Various kinds of knitted silk fabrics are used for the purpose, but, unlike the sweat er, they are lined, and sometimes with a silk Btrongly contrasting with the outer material. Not infrequently this silk runs over Into cuffs and col lar. The coats are mad along loose wrap lines, sometimes Telted or sashed. Seml-norfolk Jackets of knitted silk are very fetching and among the most popular coats in the knitted silk fabrics. the Younj People ' V. ' ,. JOT' It is trim in appearance and broader in the toe than it looks. The narrow effect is accomplished by the long point in the tip of patent leather. The plain leather sandals made for children's midsummer wear deserve a good word always. Worn without stockings, they help out the youngsters that are denied the pleasure of running barefoot, and are so easy to put off and on that the little people can in dulge in the Joy of getting their feet on the ground occasionally. JULIA BOTTOMLEY. Braid in Millinery. Serviceable, adaptable braid has been called upon for trimming the newest tailored hats, and some very unique effects have been obtained from Its artistic use. A large chou or roso of folded white silk braid effect ively trims a fine white leghorn. A three-cornered dark brown milan has dangling at one side a red apple of soutache braid alluring enough to tempt any modern daughter of Ev. Wide cotton braid with colored bor ders band the sports hats of panama. silk and peanut straw. Watch the braid counters for choice bits If you wish a new bat trimming. '(SV L The Married Life of By MABEL HERBERT URNER Originator of "Their Married Life. Author of The Journal of a Neglected Wife," "The Woman Alone," etc. Helen Is Furious When Warren Condones the Petty Dis honesty of Their Maid (Copyright, 1913, by the McClure Newspaper Syndicate.) "But we can't keep a girl that's dishonest!" protested Helen. Warren's only answer was an indifferent shrug as he flipped the ashes from his cigar to the edge of his salad plate. "And the brazen way she denied it!" persisted Helen indignant ly. "She kept saying it was hers! I had to get the bolt and show her where she'd cut it off before Ehe'd admit she'd taken it." wax. Mabel H. Urner. "Oh, well, what's a few ribbons, anyway?" "If she takes ribbons, she'll take other things. I'll always feel I can't trust " Then as Emma entered with the coffee: "Did you have a busy day, dear? Many people in?" Emma's usually placid face was slightly flushed. Had she been lis tening? Helen waited until they were in the library, out of the reach of pos sible eavesdropping, then she went on heatedly: "It's the feeling that she goe3 through my things when I'm out that's what makes me wild! That rib bon was in a box way in the back of the -drawer she had to go through everything to find it." "Lock your door." "Oh, I can't lock up things! I won't have a girl I can't trust!" "Well, It's up to you. Fire her If you want to but she's an A-l cook." And, drawing up a chair for his feet, Warren settled back with the paper. Helen took up the last Woman's Journal and turned to "The War's In fluence on Early Spring Fashions." Her mind passed unmeaningly over the words. She-was thinking of some narrow lace in the same drawer with that ribbon and all that sachet she had brought from London! Throwing down the magazine, Helen ran into her room and got out tho lace. There was so much of it, several yards might have been cut off; Ehe could not tell. Hut the sachet was all there four unopened bottles, tho one on her dresser and one she had given Carrie. While she had these things out, Helen started to straighten her draw er, her mind still revolving around the problem of Emma. "What's going on in there?" called Warren complalnlngly, who, although burled in his paper, always wanted her with him In the evening. "In Just a minute, dear; I'm putting away some things." Before going back to the library, Helen went out to the kitchen to speak about the corn muffins for breakfast. But Emma was not there. She had hurried through her dishes and was gone probably to the "movies" with Mrs. Carson's maid. The kitchen was dark, but In Emma's room the light was still burning. As Helen went in to turn it off, 6he glanced about disapprov ingly. The dusty bureau wa9 littered with hairpins, curlers and picture post cards. One of the drawers was half open, giving a glimpse of the confu sion within. Helen stood with her hand raised to switch off the light, struggling with a sudden Impulse to look through Emma's things. She had always re spected the privacy of a girl's room, but Emma had taken that ribbon and she had a right to know if she had taken anything else. Hesitatingly she turned to the dresser and opened tho top drawer, Underneath a tangle of soiled hand kerchiefs, collars and ribbons, Helen was amazed to find a number of things she had thrown away a broken comb, a velvet rose, an empty perfume bottle and some old white gloves. , Why had she saved those worth less things? It could hardly be called dishonest, but it showed a desire to hoard that Helen did not like. In the next drawer were an old silk petticoat and a lace yoke that only last week she had wrapped In a bundle and put on the dumb waiter. So Emma had unwrapped the bundle and taken them out! Helen turned from the bureau to the narrow closet. As she opened the door an old straw hat of Warren's tumbled down from4 the upper shelf. What could the girl want with that? A hasty search disclosed nothing else. With a thorough distaste for the work, Helen shut the closet door, but a roll of clothes kept it from latching. As she lifted the bundle to push It back underneath, in a torn bit of tissue paper, gleamed some thing pink and satiny. Helen caught It up. It was over two. yards of wide ribbon enough to run In a skirt The next moment she was la the library, shaking the ribbon at War ren with an excited, vehement "This 3X Helen and Warren settles It! She'll have to go! Look what I found in her room!" "Eh, what's that?" irascibly, glaring over his paper. "I knew she took a lot of narrow ribbon but I didn't know she took this! She had it hidden in the bottom of her closet! Now do you want me to keep her?" "Who said I wanted you to keep her? All I want is to be let alone!" Wrought up to a feverish indigna tion, Helen could hardly wait until Emma returned. She would tell her tonight that when her month w'as up she would have to go. Why, the girl was brazen absolutely brazen. And 6he had come with a reference for honesty! That showed how little a reference meant. Helen was walk ing excitedly up and down. "You know what I'm going to do!" tempestuously, again confronting Warren. "I'm going to call uo Emma's reference right now and ask what Bhe meant by saying the girl was honest!" Go ahead! Whoop it up!" with aggravating unconcern. A hurried search through her desk, and Helen found the address Mrs. Lewlson, Lenox 8174. A moment later she had Mrs. Lewi son on the 'phone. "This is Mrs. Curtis! I'd like to speak to you about a maid, Emma Anderson. I believe she had a ref erence from you?" "Yes, I gave her a reference," in a questioning voice. "And I think you said she was hon est. Well, I I'm sorry to say I haven't found her so that is in small things " "Was It ribbons?" laughingly. "Why how do you know?" "That was Emma's weakness. Ehe would take ribbons to run in her un derwear but as long as she was with me she never took anything else." "Then you think she can be trusted with the silver and other " "Absolutely. She was here over a year and I trusted her with every thing. I consider her a very good girl, and I didn't hesitate to give her a reference. You know most of them have worse faults than " "Yes, I know," murmured Helen, "only I wanted to be sure." When she hung up the receiver she turned to Warren with a puzzled, "Dear, she says it's only ribbons! The girl has a mania for ribbons, but she's really honest in every other way." "Why in blazes don't you give her some ribbon if that's all she wants." "But she was so untruthful about It." unheedingly. "She insisted the ribbon was hers!" Then, with sudden intensity, "Now I know what I'll do! I'll give her another chance. I'll put thl3 piece back, and when 6he comes In I'll ask her If she's sure she re turned it all." With deliberate care Helen put the ribbon back under the bundle of clothes in Emma's closet, then left the hall door open so she could hear her come in. It was ten now, and she rarely Btayed out after half past. While she waited, Helen rehearsed Just what she would say. She would not seem angry or excited, but if Emma insisted that there was no more ribbon in her room, then Bhe would go straight to the closet and lift up the bundle of clothes. With a grim satisfaction she pictured this scene and the girl's confusion. At last came the sound of a clos ing door Emma had come in. Resolutely Helen went out to her room. At the door she hesitated. The transom was open, and she could hear the girl humming, and talking to Pussy Purr-Mew. "Is Pussy hungry?" A faint, an swering "mew." "Does Pussy want some milk?" Helen drew back into the dark as Emma's door opened with a flood of light. She was going out to the kitchen for the milk, still talking to Pussy Purr-Mew In her cooing, girl ish way. Standing Irresolutely in the dark ened dining room, Helen thought of what Mrs. Lewlson had said that tho girl was young and vain and had a weakness for ribbons, but that she was absolutely honest about every thing else. Somehow Helen's indig nation and resentment were waning. She thought, too, of the trouble and worry of breaking In another girl, who might have worse faults and more of them. Might It not be easier to simply lock up her ribbons and say nothing? Another moment of indecision, and Helen noiselesly left the dining room. "Well, how about It?" demanded Warren, when she came back and took up the magazine with an effac ing, uncommunicative air. "Did she own up?" "I didn't ask her. I Ithought I'd let it ro this time." "Petered out, eh? Kicked up a dust about nothing? Give the girl some ribbon, I tell you, if that's all she wants. Can't expect a paragon for Ave a week. Where's the other part of this paper?" ONE WAY TO CHANGE A D n c Grafting Vlnlfera Vineyards. (By F. T. BIOLITTI.) The best time for grafting depends Bomewhat on the soil and climate, but usually the latest grafts do the best, provided the scions are completely dormant and otherwise in good con dition. If the buds of the scions have started and the bark becomes loose, many will fall. In the stlffer and wetter soils, much greater caro is necessary in choosing the time for grafting. The soil should be In such a condition that it will pulverize eas ily. Lumpy soil placed about the graft will cause many failures. Mro grafts fail from an excess of moisture than from drying out. This moisture may be already in tho soil, or due to rains after grafting, or it may simply be due to the sap which flows out of the cut stump. The amount of sap that will flow out of a vine two or more inches in diameter is very considerable and quite sufficient in many cases to "drown" tho graft. This may be avoided by cutting off the vines one or two days before grafting and leaving them exposed to the air, In order that the main flow of sap may dry up. This Is good practice in all cases where the vines are over 1H inches in diameter. The first thing to do is to clear away the earth from around the base of the vine, making a pit about two feet in diameter, and two to three inches deeper than the level at which the grafting is to be done. The earth should be well cleaned off the stem of the vine and the rough, dry bark removed. (See A in illustration.) The vine is then ready for decapitation. This is done by sawing horizontally in such a place that about two Inches of smooth, straight grain are left at the top. (See S in Fig. A.) If the sawing is done at or too near a place where the grain of the wood Is crooked or curly, great difficulty will be found in making a good fit. After leaving the decapitated vine 24 hours to bleed, It is ready for the insertion of the scion. In making the cleft, a place should be chosen where the bark is smooth and sound. The THINNING THE FRUIT IS GOOD PRACTICE Overtaxing Capacity of Tree by Excessive Crop Is Short sighted Policy. Thinning the fruit Is a step that many fruit growers are slow to adopt and yet it is as commercially profitable as the culture of the soil or spraying, and should be regarded as essential. In a good crop year peaches set in a pro fusion far beyond the resources of the tree, and this is also usually true of plums and often apples. To overtax the capacity of a tree by an excessive crop is a very short sighted policy. The evil results of overbearing are seen In irregular hab its of bearing, for an exhausted tree will take one or more years to re trieve Its powers. They are seen in a shortened life and sometimes in death within the year; In diminished rigor which Invites attacks of in sects and diseases; In small under sized fruit which sells at low prices and is often unmarketable; in a greater proportion of wormy and rot ten fruit Peaches should be thinned to a dis tance of from three to six inches. To many six inches will seem excessive, but experience will Justify it In the case of large-growing varieties. No fruit should be permitted to be in contact and la thinning bear always In mind the room required by an In dividual fruit when grown to full size. Thinning should be done early when fruit Is the size of hickory nuts, but after the drop that usually takes place in early summer Is past But while thinning Is best done early as Involving less tax on the tree, It is far better to do It quite late, even rhen fruit is nearly full grown, than tot at all. VARIETY OF GRAPES E cleft must be made by splitting. With a slight blow of a wooden mallet the grafting knife Is driven one-eighth of an inch into both wood and bark (Bee Fig. C). The chisel end of the grafting knife is then placed in the mark and driven in an inch or so, suf ficient to open a cleft wide enough to allow the entrance of the scion (Fig. D). The scion is inserted and. when the chisel is released and removed the tension of the wood will hold the scion firmly in place (Fig. E). Aa soon as the scion is in place, all cut surface of stock and scion should be carefull covered with a couple of inches of moist, well-pulverized soil (see II, Fig. B), and a stake driven in such a position that it will support the first growth of the graft. The complete filling of the hole may be deferred (vr a few hours, except In extremely hot, dry weather, but not long enough to run any risk of having the scion be come even slightly dry. No wax, clay or similar material is needed. There is nothing better to put around the union than moist, loose soil. If the cleft is too large it is a good practice to cover the cleft in the stock with a leaf or anything that will exclude the soil. The filling up of the hole with soil should be complete and the whole scion may be covered up unless the soil has a tendency to bake. When finished, each graft will be in the mid dle of a wide mound of soil (see 112, Fig. B). Narrow mounds may become too dry. The mounds should not be disturbed by hoe or cultivator until tho unions are well formed. If the scions are completely covered and the mounds form a hard crust, this crust should be carefully broken with the fingers. Judgment and careful work are needed In suckering. When the grafts have started to grow vigorously, so that the shoots can be tied to the stake, it is safe to commence sucker ing. When grafts are slow in starting, and the suckers vigorous, it is -necessary to sucker before the scion has grown much. This can be done safely if care Is used. INCREASE VALUE OF GRAIN BY GRINDING Saves Animal the Work and En ergy Required to Digest Food Materials Given It It has been proved that grinding corn increase its feeding value about 6 per cent. This Increase is not suf ficient, however, to warrant a farm er's sacking the grain and hauling It to town or to a neighboring farm to be ground. On the other hand, where one already has a good grinding outfit of his own and can perform the work at home without extra labor grinding may be desirable for the hard grains such as corn, millet, kaflr corn, milo maize, wheat and barley. The principle involved In grinding grains is to pulverize the food mate rials eo that the digestive Juices may act more completely and also to save the animal the work and energy re quired to digest and eliminate it Thus, grinding grains enables an ani mal to consume more roughage or bulky foods. Where maximum results are desired without regard to the cost, grinding grains may assist one in reaching this end. If one wishes to force dairy cows for a high record of milk and butter fat or obtain maximum gains with show cattle or hogs, ground grains, al though expensive, may be used. Old animals, dairy cows and hogs, and horses that are being worked hard sometimes make grinding profitable, but the extra cost of preparing the food for sheep, beef cattle and idle horses will not pay for grinding the ordinary grains. It Is well to remem ber that feeding a balanced ration to live stock is better than any other method of feed preparation, such as shelling corn, grinding, soaking and cooking grains or chaffing hay. MARKET QUOTATIONS Live Stock. DETROIT Cattle: Receipts. 1,515; market dull; best dry-fed, $8(58.50; best handy weight grass butcher steers, $77.75; mixed steers and heifers (graesers), $77.50; handy light butchers (grassers), $6.507; light butchers (grassers), $6(36.50; best cows, $66.25; butcher cows, $3 05.50; common cows, $4 ft 4.50; can ners, $3 4; best heavy bulls, $6 6.25; bologna bulls, 15.2505.75. Veal calves: Receipts, 557; market strong and 25c higher; best, $10.50fl 11; others. $710. Sheep and lambs: Receipts, 986; market strong; best lambs, $10.50 11; fair lambs, $7.5008.50; light to common lambs, $607; yearlings, $70 8; fair to good sheep. $4.2505.25; culls and common. $30 4. Hogs: Receipts. 4,921; market 10 015c higher; 'all grades. $7.9007.93 EAST BUFFALO Cattle, Receipts, 2,875; market 25c higher; choice to prime shipping steers, $9.4009.65; fair to good, $8.7509.25;; plain and coarse, $808.50; choice handy steers, $8.5009; fair to good, $808.25; light common, $6.75 0 7; yearlings, $8,500) 9.50; prime fat heifers, $7.7508.50; best handy butcher heifers, $7,500) 7.75; common to good. $6.5007.25; best fat cows, $6.7507.25; good butch ering cows, $606.50; medium to good, 15.5006; cutters, $4.5005.20; can ners, $404.25; best heavy bulls, $6.75 7.25; good butchering bulls, $6.5007; light bulls, $5.5006. Hogs Receipts, 1.600; market 10 0 15c lower; heavy, $808.10; mixed and yorkers, $8.1508.25; pigs, $8.2508.35, Sheep and lambs Receipts, 2,000; market 50c higher; top lambs, $110) 11.25; yearlings, $809; wethers, $6.75 07.25; ewes, $5.2506; cull sheep, $3 04. Calves Receipts, 1,400; market strong; tops, $10.50011; fair to good, $9.50010; grassers, $406. Grains, Etc. DETROIT Wheat: Cash No. 2 red, $1.23; July opened with a drop of l-4o at $1.05 1-4 and advanced to $1.07; September opened at $1.03 3-4 and advanced to $1.04 1-2; No. 1 white, $1.22. Corn Cash No. 3, 77c; No. 3 yellow 2 cars at 78c; No. 4 yellow, 76 l-2c. Oats Standard, 51051 l-2c; No. 3 white, 50 1-20 51c; No. 4 white, 490) 50c. Rye Cash No. 2, $1.12; August, 93c. Beans Immediate and prompt ship ment, $2.90; July, $2.95. Cloverseed Prime spot, $8.20; Oc tober, $8.C0; prime alsike, $8.50. Timothy Prime spot, $3.20. Hay No. 1 timothy, $18.50019; standard timothy, $17.50018; No. 2 timothy, $16.50017; light mixed, $17.50018; No. 1 mixed, $16016.50; No. 1 clover, $14014.50; No. 2 clover, $12013; rye straw, $808.50; wheat and oat straw, $707.50 per ton. Flour In one-eighth paper sacks, per 196 pounds, Jobbing lots: Best patent, $6.30; second patent, $6; straight, $5.90; spring patent, $6.50; rye flour, $6.40 per barrel. Feed In 100-lt) sacks. Jobbing lots: Bran, $25; standard middlings, $29; fine middlings, $32; coarse cornmeal, $33; cracked corn, $32; corn and oat chop, $36 per ton. General Markets. Cherries Sour, $202.25 per bu. Oooseberrles $202.25 ntr bu. Blackberries $3.5003.75 per 24 quart case. Huckleberries $404.25 per 24 quart case. Raspberries Red, $707.50 per 24 quart case; black, $3.5003.75 per 24 quart cane. Peaches Southern, 75080c per 4 basket crate; Oklahoma, 75080c per 4-basket flat. Strawberries Shipped in, $101.23 per 16-quart case; home-grown, $2.50 03 per bushel. Apples Ben Davis. $3.5003.75; Baldwin, $5.7506 per barrel: western apples, $202.25 per, box; new, $1,500 1.75 per box. New Cabbage $1.2301.50 per crate. Green Corn $5.50 per barrel and 60c per dozen. Lettuce Head, $1.23; leaf, 2530c per bushel. Dressed Calves Fancy. 11 1-20120 per pound; common, 10011c. Maple Sugar New, 14015c per fb.; syrup. $101.10 per gal. Celery Florida, $303.23 per crate; Michigan, 15020c per dozen. Onions Texas Bermudas, $1.23 for yellow and $1.23 for white per crate. Honey Choice to fancy new white comb. 14015c; amber, 809; extract ed, 506c per 1T. , Live Poultry Broilers, 25027c; hens, 14 l-2015c; No. 2 hens. 12c; ducks, 16016 l-2c; geese, 10011c; turkeys, 170 18c" per lb. New Potatoes Texas Triumphs, 65c per bu; Bermuda, $404.50 per bbl and $2 per bu; Virginia Cobblers, $3 02.25 per bbl. Cheese Wholesale lots: Michigan flats, 14014 l-4c; New York flats, 15 l-2016c; brick, 14 1-4014 3-4c; limburger, 2-tb packages, 13 l-2c; 1-IT packages 11 l-2015c; imported Swiss, 31c; domestic Swiss. 19021c; long horns, 15c; daisies, 15c per R.