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THE OMAHA DAILY BlSti : SUNDAY , KKBIirARY 6 , -SIXT13KN ) PAGER , ' "GET OFF THE WALK , PLEASE Cataclysmic Ghan cs in Fomlnino Apparel Threaten the World , THE CRINOLINE ALREADY IN BLOOM CCho Riutln of Tumultuous Hldrti Ilenrtl In the Ij ril 1'rdty Frock * for Children Talk nn Tiling * I'ciiiluliiH I'criotmlltln. Tlits h a period of suspense in dress Cataclysmic changes arc threatenedtind everyone in waiting anxiously the edicts from the ptirllument of fashion. Just now the law makers nro Involved In in terned no strife , With the French authorities pulling ono way and the English authorities pulling the other , a compromise- scorns probable on the modes nf the ISM period. Novorbefore , within n year , did the female form divine so ap preciably alter its outlines as during the last twelvemonth. The idolized waist , lhat lias been the pedal point upon which nil dress harmonies have been founded , lias been deposed and dishonored. Wo Imvo sacrificed food , comfort , health , nlmost life itself , to thlswalbt ideal , says the New York Sun , and now , when its dearly-bought slendernesslH not entirely 'ost beneath the straight draperies of an Kmpiro gown , it is sacrificed to the short , broad outlines of the fashionable bodice , with its folded belt and wrinkled corselet. The modiHto , who has for years ruthlessly fitted down our bodices to the prescribed modish shape , no mat ter what hhapo wo might bo ourt-ches , lias suddenly loosened the torturing steels nnd bones , and gives us a waist line two inches above and more than tuo inches broader than anything wo htivo been al lowed to possess in a quarter of a century. Ore might fancy that the fashion goddess had repented of her fol- lie.s and was In lenguo with the dress re formers , were it not lhat the skirt takes on new extravagances daily in increase ratio to the reasonableness of the bodice , nnd that the stcevo develops eeeenjtriei- tles galore , the latest being a great full ness about the elbow instead of the hlioulder. It is not quite a year now Hinco the study of evolution * in dress prompted the prophecy that the crinoline - line was imminent. For a time the Bkirts grow even more bcant , and the thoughtless laughed in derision. It was but hastening the day when the petticoat turbulent should surge and tlow arbitrua- lly about us , for with the lowest ebb of hkimplness the reaction was at hand. Now the newest Parisian skirts are fourteen - teen and a half yards around the edge , arc lined throughout with crinoline muslin , and stand out stillly all around , with the bulk of fullness at the back. It cannot bo denied that the new mode 1ms , despite its grotesquancbs , certain elegant nnd delirato features gratifying to the sense of the drons epicure. The woman clad in the close , short skirt lacks the essentially feminlno and precious frou-frou and rustle. She walks iil'l-silently , like a man. The woman in the wide petticoat is heard whispering down the staircase , rustling along the passages , murmuring through the mazes of the dance , like a summer forest whoso mystic voices arc never still. Ono might write- poem about this melody of the tumultuous petticoat , which , if it is not natural or classic , is engagingly artificial and symbolic of exceeding daintiness and leisure and idle grace. The average woman is appalled at the demands of the now skirt. It requires in arrangement a multiplicity of frills and no end of petticoats to give it de sired amplitude. It is hopelessly un manageable outside a carriage. It will need endless brushing and icfurblshing nnd caro. But the woman who drives and keeps a majd will rejoice in all this nicety of attention , which distinguishes the lilies of life from the faithful , hard working , often talented , but hopelessly prosaic average woman. All the now wash materials arc par ticularly pretty for children's frocks nnd short lengths of handsome fabrics sold at a reduction may bo made up most effectively for young girls. Ono advantage in little children's attire is that the mode varies but slightly from ono season to the next , so that it is quite safe to begin on the simple gowns for the summer now when the dressmakers and seamstresses are not busy. The prettiest little organdie gowns are made with a low-nocked , shortrwaistod bodice about which is gathered a full rufllo , edged with lace and falling low enough to entirely conceal the waist. The little skirt is gathered and finished With n plain horn or within little frill. A pretty model for u crishmore dross has a pointed capeliko rufllo gathered from the neck and falling quito to the belt in the front and at tlio back. The ruillo is finished on the cdgo with a hcallop embroidered by hand nnd having rows of dots worked in following the outline - line of the scallop. Another pretty idea is a gathered waist of wool belted with many straps of velvet and worn over a white embroidered guimpo. The gown , of soft fawn challic , with green leaves and tiny flowerets , has its trimming of thin velvet , or a plain blue wool , light , is made stylish with a decoration of brown velvet. Another pretty idea fora ohallio is copied from a drossy little froek of yellow bongallno. The skirt is plain. The waist is shirred at the front and back , leaving n standingruflloof the goods. About the waist is a broad bolt made of pipings of bcngalino about half an inch wide , with rows of gold braid be tween. This belt does not moot in front or at the baek , but Is finished on either nido the shirred space with two rosottcs of the braid. A full ruillo gathers over the shoulder , stopping at the shirring , and Is finished on the cdgo with tha- brald. Uuby ribbon in velvet or satin might roplnco the gold on a figured drops and , matching some color in the material , inuko a pretty addition to the Hummer dress , * * Young folks will always enjoy a dans- Ing party moro than any otlior form of entertainment. Yet to give a largo dance is very expensive , and to go to ono likowipo means extra expenditure as well as Into hours and rich viands that are not the best things in the world for tlip lads and lassies who are just budding into men and women. Of course the society man and the ( lobutantn who enter upon a round of winter gayetles as the sum total of their existence- can recuperate by sleeping late the next day and thus make up for the dissipation of the previous night , but there are many hnppy-hoartod young folks who are not buttortlics of this sort , yet who enjoy the fun as well as their moro favored brothers and sisters - tors and would bo only too glad of a chunco for an evening's enjoyment now Riid then if it didn't cost too much. By costing too much , it docs not mean the actual expense of thq refreshments or the music , but the damage the small diuico does to the furniture and -carpets of the room whcroln it is usually given. To counteract this all the belongings , Bavo a few chairs , should bo removed and a crash laid over the carpet. If it were possible to obtain a vacant un- ourpeted room it could soon bo trans- . a. & > .A.3XTD OF * T T LJ to the fact that it is the t&jfr IN UNITED FOR MANUFACTURES AND MERCHANDISE OF EVERY DESCRIPTION , ESPECIALLY BOOTS AND SHOES , FANCY AND STAPLE DRY GOODS , SADDLERY AND HARNESS , MEN'S & CHILDREN'S CLOTHING , FURNITURE AND UPHOLSTERY , GROCERIES AND PROVISIONS , CAR.PETS AND CURTAINS , HARDWARE , ARMS & CUTLERY , DRUGS AND CHEMICALS , CARRIAGES AND VEHICLES , RAILROAD AND STREET CARS , DIAMONDS , JEWELRY & WATCHES , BLANK BOOKS & LITHOGRAPHY , MACHINERY--Mining' , Steam , Electric WOODENWARS , STEAMWAH.E . , SMOKING & CHEWING TOBACCO , AGRICULTURAL IMPLEMENTS , GASKETS AND UNDERTAKERS' SUPPLIES , DOMESTIC AND IMPORTED CIGARS. ST . LOUIS is the Commercial and Manufacturing Metropolis of the West , South-West and South ; it is the best RAIL ROAD CENTER in the United Statesjits stock of merchandise are unsurpassed in either extent or varietyand buy * ers can effect a large saving by placing their orders in St. Louis. The increase in manufacturing and shipping re turns bear tribute to the eminence of St. Louis as a MANUFACTURING and DISTRIBUTING point. In all matters of Transportation , Freight Rates , Etc. , St. Louis Manufacturers and .Merchants offer inducements unexcelljejl by any other city. NOTICE TO INVESTORS. This announcement is sued by the Bureau of Information of the AUTUMNAL FES < TIVITIES ASSOCIATION of the City of St. Louis , the Bureau being charged with the duty of making known to the world the extraordinary advantages that those trading with St. Louis The year 1892 was one of unprecedented growth and prosperity in St. Louis. More enjoy. It invites buyers to come to St. Louis or open up correspondence with its merchants. than 5,400 buildings were erected , as compared with 4,800 in 1891 , and 4,200 in 1890. The Any other information that may be desired as to mercantile matters will be given by tha new buildings erected in 1892 cost upwards of THIRTY MILLION dollars , and the'demand fur Bureau , o'r inquiries referred to proper quarters. office buildings and residences continues exceptional. No city in America offers such excellent THE BUREAU OF INFORMATION inducements to large and small capitalists with such absolute security. , 202 Mermod & Jaccnrd Building , STXOUIS , MO. formed into a ball room , whore there would bo no danger of upsetting any of the knick-knacks that are to bo found in the living rooms of all houses. Such an arrangement as this would require no moving of furniture and would be par ticularly appreciated by the awkward young man who always falls over some thing. Refreshments can bo either cake and ice cream , the staple and always grate ful frozen delicacy ; fruit and wafers , cake nnd lemonade , crackers and choco late served with whipped cream , or sandwiches and coffee or bouillon , if the weather is very cold. Two things are quito sufficient and a piano the entire orchestra that is required. Adhering to these simple rules many a gay little affair , beginning and ending early and affording much pleasure for very little expense , may bo given during the winter. * Young girls , who marry against the will of reasonable and loving parents , can make * up their minds that disap pointment if not something worse , will bo their lot , writes Vera Bornardloro in an article on "American Girls and Titles , " in the February Ladies'Home Journal. As far as the foreigner is concerned - corned , ho may bo dazzled , captivated by the beauty , grace , intellect and inde pendent ideas and manners in the American woman , but this very inde pendence which ho seemingly admires ir her while she is his friend or his bo trbthed ho will not tolerate in his wife. And the young girl , who sees but the varnished oxlorior of elegant manners , the pcrsuasivo and subtle compliment , will soon learn , to her own disappoint ment , that there lies u substance of a very realistic and unpleasant nature bo ncath this highly colored rainbow tissue of her romantic imagination. There are but two courses to pursue to learn from the experience of others , or from your own. own.Tho American girl need look no further than her own country to find the noblest , the grandest typo of manhood on earth. Here man respects and honors her womanhood , is willing to labor nnd make sacritlcos for her happiness , bids her cheerfully to bo a coworker , an hon ored guest of public life , when occasion demands , and loves her , not for what she has , but for what she Is. - When nature has neglected to crown n head with silicon tresses , ono can , In some measure , remedy the slight by persistently brushing the hair. A good quality of brush should bo used. A hair brush should Imvo long , soft bristles that will go through the hair and touch the scalp ; then e\cry particle of dust and dirt can bo removed. A comb is seldom necessary if the hair is carefully brushed ; if used at all the comb should bo a coarse ono. A fine comb irritates the scalp to a hurtful degree , and It is quito apt to break and split the hair. Brush the hair for flvo minutes before retiring at night , braid it loosely and permit It to hang. Never sleep with hairpins in tbo huh1. huh1.Tho The hnlrplns to use are made of bono ; amber or tortoise shell. Coarse , sharn pins out and tour the hair and shouhl never bo used. It is nn old-thno saying and well worth trying that " 100 strokes of the hairbrush every night will make ono's hair like silk. " * The right of women to "wear th brooches" actually as well as metaphor ! S cally , has recently been demonstrated , if priority of invention give priority of jlaim. "By the patient nrchrcological research carried on by ono woman , " says the Pall Mall Gazette , "it has been proved , for the gratification of all ivomon , that the bifurcated nether gar ment supposed to be specially distinctive of the masculine toilet rightly belongs to the feminine dress. The women of Judah , it seems , wore the first wearers of the garment in bifurcated form , ana man , perceiving the convenience and comfort of this article of dross , evolved by the superior intelligence of woman , appropriated the same for his own use , and doomed his womankind to encumber their limbs with flowing robes which render it impossible for thorn to cope with man in the useful occupations. " 4 * * Every bride knows her power ; every wife comes to know her weakness , writes Octavo Thanot in a delightful article on "That Man : Your Husband" in the February Ladies' Homo Journal. A good proportion of the heartbreak of early married lifo is duo to the ferment of this knowledge. The poor child whoso lover gave up his cigars and his club with such angelic meekness , finds that her husband can smoke like a chimney , and leave her alone nights in order to upend the evening with his men friends. She imagines that ho cares less for her than ho did , which is a mistake , in most cases ; seven out of ten men love their wives better than their sweethearts. It is simply that her presence is not the absorbing excitement that it was when loyo was now. The chances are that the wife is bocomo'a dozen times moro neces sary to the man than over the sweet heart could have been. Ho would feel her death far moro keenly , but ho docs not need to adjure his heart to "sit still" whenever his fancy summons her imago. In short , Bho is become the bread of ex istence in place of the elixir , but there is no question that moro fuss is made over the elixir. * * * The scrupulous rogara for truth of the Chicago newspapers has long been well known , but none of them has hitherto gone so far as the Evening Mall when it declares that Chicago women Imvo the smallest and prettiest feet in all America. The Mail prints alleged dia grams of the feet of Mrs. P. D. Armour , Mrs. Daniel Goodwin , Mrs. Reginald do ICovon and several other women to prove its statements. It Bays that Boston women got pigeon-toed turning so many corners and that Now York women spoil their foot by climbing olovatcd railroad stairs and that Philadelphia women go to sleep standing and mitten out their feet , but only on the shores of Luke Michigan do women Imvo beautiful and symmetrical under pinning. * * Mrs. Carlisle , wife of the man who , It is now conceded , Is to be Mr. Cleveland's secretary of the treasury , has for years l > eon her husband's chief counselor and helper. "Few men , " says a Washington correspondent , "over lived who owed moro to a woman than ho to Mrs. Car lisle , and she has always boon intensely ambitious for him. It is likely that sha had great weight in deciding the question of his going into the cabinet of .Mr. Cleveland , as she has had in most others in Mr. Carlisle's political career. Mrs. Carlisle knows public men nnd af fairs as well as Mrs. Ilotty Green under stands railway matters. She is neither young nor handsome , but she is very StSSI1&K3rf : ' f3UlLf.TVI < agreeable and always knows what is best /or John Griflln Carlisle. " Jfotei of the Fashions. , The poke bonnet's return is a cer tainty. Silk bed shoots are a caprice of fashion. Veils of rich purple line are very fashionable and are worn with black toilette's. Goldenrod and primrose shades are considered modish as the color schemes in tea robes. After the crinoline comes the man who is in a hurry to get down town and will probably have to walk in the streets. Tufts of bright fecarlot feathers with a black satin butterfly in the center are worn in the hair at fashionable enter tainments. What use is it for a woman to try to enjoy a play when she is wearing a pair of kid boots that she has just bought that afternoon ? Shaded velvet sleeves with contrasting costumes , and plaid velvet sleeves with blue or green cloth gowns , seem to bo particularly popular. The girl who wears a high hat in the front seats at the theater will never get anywhere near the front seats in heaven. At least that's what the man behind her thinks. Hat pins have become so elaborate that thieves' court them. Numerous in stances have occurred of women's hats being rilled while they wore on their heads. One very marked feature of the sea son's- fashions is the fancy for wearing dark gowns , with coats or capes of vel vet in rich , bright shades , nnd very ornate and brilliant in decoration. Double-faced shot ribbons in velvet and satin are now , and ono of the hand somest of Virot's recent .hats has the shape stretched tightly with satin in a pale tint and adorned1 'with black lace , fur and ribbon of this sOrt ! . ' The old boll skirt unoj'i bo milled or cut off and enlarged with a Spanish flounce , and the sleeves3 can bo easily changed. In the matter pf bodices wo can bo in the height c\fV/asliion by wear ing n contrasting velvet waist with the old skirt. , i Collarettes of bright ; ribbon plaited or two rufllcs of silk scolloped on the edges and buttonholcdjwljh colored silk nro worn to brighten dark iiouso dresses , and long bows of chiff shirred and tucked into shape , comet ) iu , all bright tints for indoor wear. A very elegant and fftylfth now shoo Is a walking boot ofDatont leather without the least adornment in the way of tips or brogues , but cut in long ele gant shape , with a thick English solo nnd heel. It has a cloth top , with a strap or buckle under the instep to llm- tate the neatest fitting gaiter. Now costumes in any shade have vel vet bodices of the same color , either the tame shade or a tone darker. This is a particularly happy combination In bis cuit color or bolgo. The skirt is of cloth , which , by the wity , promises to continue its popularity all the spring , and may have folds of the bodice in velvet or the seams pined up and down with velvet cords. The corsage is a velvet , a shade or two darker , and no matter how simply draped and arranged it makes a very pretty costume. The majority of the bodices and gowna now being fashioned by leading modistes are made with n round bias , seamless back , with very wide flohulike rovers going over the shoulders , the rovers deeply notched in front like a man's coat-collar. The skirts are shorter , with cither a cornet back or the moro familiar shape with a bias seam , this scam , however , being hidden by largo plaits , and. not revealed as It was on the original boll model. There are made some exceedingly dainty bodices for evening wear which are most becoming and useful whan the high bodice of the silk dress is removed for the purpose of making a smartening change. The bodices of cream and ivory white lace are a fascinating feature of present fashions. They nro made high as well as low , square and half high , but always with hugh airy puffs for sleeves , these reaching from the shoulder to above the elbow. The now "slindow" velvets are the ad miration of all , since their folds in their alternations of light and shade are a vision of splendor with their superb rain bow hues. They find a foil in the sub dued shadings of autumn leaves rich amber brown , garnet , iris purple , greens in all shades of foliage , cyclamen , petu nia , the yellow of the goldenrod , damask rose , etc. many of the beautiful colors when in velvet being accentuated by a still brighter background , glhnpfOi of which are obtained through the rich black or dark brown pile. TWO HOUSE DRESSES. The figure at the loft In the accom panying engraving wears a princess cos tume of ohvo brown cloth with velvet sleeves. The puffed sleeves and the nar row vest are of dark green velvet and the plastron Is of omun colored surah. The trimming u ed , both the passe menterie nnd the marabout , is black. The plastron is slightly plaited and is bordered by a narrow band of velvet , which clasps at the waist and lends the nppenranco of a vest. The standing collar is of cream colored siirnh and is partly covered by 41 > o feather trimming. There are tight luting undorsleevcs. The costume at the right Is of navy blue cheviot , set off with black silk pnbsetnontorio , nnd having n vest of salmon colored Bilk. The bottom of the skirt has a balayouse , nnd is trimmed with a double gathered ruche of the ma terial. The braid glrdlo is knotted at the loft as in the picture , and hangs In What Brand is on your Collar ? It ought to bo , if you wear IS IT THE a 35-cent collar ; for they are superior to any ether iJG-ccnt collar made. . . . It ought to bo , if you wear n IS IT THE 2O-ccut collar ; for this brand is the very beat value to bo had in collars for AND 2O cents ; three for CO cts. Wo collar , whatever bolts brand , should bo worn on any other make of shirt than the - - - - - - , . . - . InAnlt. This ready-midc shirt will certainly tult you. It U a sure fit. We make it and we know. . ClllCtt CoOn & Co. Waleh our idvertliementi next week. , . Wltboutmoncjrnndnltlio'it prl3i. To the You nro not wo I , and liaviinj nioni'y or tlrai ) to see i iln or Cut out thu ruui.c in liit''d huri ) . rnr MH-AL tw NK\V YOKK 1'nMollona iiostnt oinl. Wrltn your nwn numu jn tli9 other si In of thooaril ; put It In thu 1'oit Ullluf , mid by rulurn niiillyon will KOI n letter unJ MHIIU irioiltuliio Unit will do von pood. Try It uuil tell ycur frleuiH two long ends to a foot from the cdgo of the skirt. The ' leg-o'-mutton sleeves button at the wrintu nnd are trimmed there with trimming similar to the giidlo. For homo wear , summer drcssos may bo made warm-looking by adding velvet Hleoves and trimming ! * to thorn. Mouses also , instead of being made of light silk now , are made of velvet or velveteen. They are made over a tight lining to prevent bagging. If the lining bo boned no corfcot is needed beneath them. They look prettiest fastened at the side , and may bo trimmed round with a narrow band of fur if intended to bo wet n out of doors. ' JVinlnliKi rrr oimllllf . Mrs. P. T. Uarnum is at Hot Springs , N. D. , where she is nursing u sprained unkle. Mrs. John Mnckav is most unassuming in her nttiio and t-eldom wouru jewels Of any kind. Her favorite color-in pimrl. Mine. Carnet , wife of the French presi dent , smokes eigarottci nftc-r her meals , but only mild nnd - u bWvot-H-cntcd va riety. Mrs. Frances Hodgson Burnett bo- Hoves in the boucllta of walking as anox- crt'ibc , nnd tnkes a long "constitutional" before breakfast every morning. The empress of Austria has begun the study of the modern Greek languageand literature. She has already made con siderable progrosd , a nhe is olovur nnd learns easily. A young lady in Newark , whoso nnklo \\as injured during u wallby her part ner accidentally kicking her , wantH Sfi.OOO damages from him. The way of the whirled. Mrs. Sarah KIpplo of Scranton , Pa. , still persists in hmoklng , after bovonty- nlno years' experience of the noxious and deadly wood. As Bho is only UU years old , there is , however , tlmo for her to reform. Miss Nollle Ahcrn will bo the next state librarian at Indianapolis. This was dccldod at a cauuus of the two bonbon , In which sixty-four votoa were oust for Mish Aliorii and only eight for the horrid male candidate. The "No 0" Wht-olcr & , Wilson , with lt perfected toiilsons , uwmr and lower , ia tbo only lock-situh inacHlno X that makes an /J / t.l.ibtk' scum. J t Is tlio drcssmakcr'n fuvorlto1 | on that account. Hold by Geo. W Lancaster ft Co. , Sit South Sixteenth street.