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THE OMAHA DAILY BISKS : riUAV.r , SS ? T.3tlJKll 20. 1896. 1 1
1" " " " " % ffa ( Q si ? 5\s < v < ' 'I HS IN THE DOMAIN OF WOMAN. , _ _ _ _ TOOTOT AVTI .MVTVMJ.S. . fnllur Mmle Drowse * unit Sntnrt Mil linery for \Vlnler U'fiir. NKW YOllK. Sept. 17. The whole of the haute monde Is not yet In town , but gome- Kmart mllllnrry Is being seen , and though fashion I * still at an unsettled Mage , every thing points townrd a brilliant sen son for la mode. At the fashionable ladles' tailoring cs- , -labllshments. walking gowns haven litltlsli air , snug In skirt , compact and long-walsled In tlio bodice , nnd with sleeves alarmingly small- Sometime * an English corsage will bo girdled up high. French fashion , In the front , and have at the throat the wide lacn criivat that goes with an elegant French toilet Hut the Kngllsh frock far excel lence Is all Kngllsh and nothing cine. The iklrt Is narrow and tending toward a se- rcro flatness at the back , the vest. Inclosed between tiny mannish tovers , prim and C -eEp JACKBTS OF I1EIOK CI.OTIT. email , and at the back of thu bodice are al the gores and all the seams of the old-time "basque" body. Uut the English gowns , with their severe vere- bodices and habit-like skirts need faultless figures to hieffective. . Nevertheless the smart woman of the mo ment knows how to combine her French and English effects with dashing success. Slit wears on simple morning occasions , when the weather is cool enough to admit of a wrap , a plain , snug skirt of serge or cloth that has the stamp of a good tailor , and ovci a skirtwalst of taffeta silk a loose top coat of light tan , blue or green cloth. With this perhaps a plain derby hat or a square French walking shape , oVerhung by a white lace curtain veil ; a linen collar and narrow ; * X YOUNQ MATRON VISITING TOILETTE. black tic , and gloves of white place kid , with big brown buttons and heavy stltchlnga of brown. Her shoes will be low affairs of black patent leather , round-toed , llat-licclril nnd thick-snird , for to wear frail , pointed dimes In the street Is now an evidence of not "knowing It" at all , A MODEL SKItGE SUIT. Another smart walking gown may have a hublt-hoily with basque and a folded satin girdle. One so made and deigned for a young ) Is In lo l > I DIAOONAIj WOOL. . . lady Is here pictured. The material Is fish sy of erman's blue serge , the gored skirt just clearing the ground and hemmed up six | n Inches deep with several rows of machine in tltchlnir. The seams of the close bodice are be lapped , and at the front , which Xaitem with th I m-ge buttons , there Is a Jabot frill of ecru | ba'.lstc edging that gradually narrowi , fit the bottom to end In n slender point between the two lower buttons. The fol.lrd satin girdle la In the same pale cream as the Jabot. Thn top coats stj called by the KtiRllsh tnllors , are very nearly related to the 1'rcnch sac-JiicKHs. All hang loose from the tlpure , but where tlin back of the French Jacket Is without seams In evidence , the top coat may have one straight down the middle. I'or the rest the top coat has only stitching as ttlmmlng , through the small cloth-covered buttons may be varied by handtomo pearl ones , but the jackets , thoie on HIP dressy order , will often show velvet pipings and rich braided embroideries. At the neck the top cent , which hangs but little below the hips and Is commonly nln- Kle-breastcd. Is finished like n man's gar ment , each side of a little V-eut , with small stitched rovers. Again It may end In n high gored collar flaring out beyond the ears ; nnd In this case the cent Is often double-breasted ami with n yoke back. Thi > sac-jacket pictured demonstrates ono French w.iy of trimming the utck. A great windmill bow of bias velvet , In n rich brown. Is placed In the curve of the high collar llko the bnck finish to n stock. A Blunder pip ing of velvet In the same lint outlines the bottom edge of thn Jacket , which Is of light cloth In a pale bclg' ' . The Rlccves. forming smnll balloons nt the top , nt closely fiotn elbow to wrist. The front Is single breasted. KFI'MJCTIVH COSTUMnS. The thrcn stunning models for outdoor gowns Khow how the Parisian wind Is blowing In that direction. The October promenade costume demonstrated ono plmso of the short Jacket effects , which , In sonio shape or other , now distinguish almost every froek of French manufac ture. Ifcre the short jacket comes , how ever , to the waist line and is In. the shape of a bolero of stet'I-bluc cloth , which Is worn with a plain skirt of black and whltrt striped silk. A novel fen- tiifc Is a slashing of the bottom of the bolero , back and front , to slip over a wide ribbon glrdlo which knots at the nlde In a rosette. A coarse Oriental linen canvass. In a deep saffron , covers the large rovers , which arc In turn oul- llncd with a heavy white lace. At the neck a folded stock of white silk mull nnd a wldir cravat of saffron net are In elegant finish. The hat with this costume- likewise unliiur. In its color combination. U Is n round braided shape , turning up at the back , of mingled white and saffron trim ming , loops of white ribbon edged with quilling of steel blue , and at thr back a wreath of velvet roses In one of tin ; new Marguerite tints against the hair. Yet one Is constantly being told that black hats , all black , and Jet velvet , and feather trimmed , nrc to be the thing ! AUTUMN HATS. Apropos of head fjenr and Its eccentri cities there was n love of a turban seen recently on Uroadway. Made of all black velvet , It was big , heavy and laid In the Hwathlng folds ol a good Mussulman's turban. In the same way. too , It was down to the ears of a sleek little black head , nnd as If the Turkish Idea had been In mind some of the folds over the forcheiid were held down by n long slender crescent of jet. Thn shape of this wonderful bend cover ing was the round of the biscuit In the riddle story ; and from the top of the crown , directly In the. center , waved Its conquering feature two airy paradise aigrettes In a dead white , divided nt the middle ? to curve outward at each side , and reared high In the air like the crest of somo. haughty bird. As for the wearer , she wns as delight ful and as haughty as her lint. Her slim body , that willow sllninrES that goes with youth , was gowned In a plain tailor costume of black cloth relieved only by white gloves nnd narrow while linen collar. Wns slio French , was she Russian , was she Viennese ? Nobody could say. All the passing world knew that she was very lovely and perfectly dressed , and one woman went homo determined to copy her get-up nt the earliest possible dato. The two remaining toilets show a new idea In skirts nnd n fantalslo In girdles. The visiting costume Is especially suited to young matrons , though It is equally appropriate for yotint , ' ladles who have passed the ago when simple materials are exacted. Illack satin or black falllo may form the skirt , which Is In two parts , the upper half and front being In one. The lower half. In the form of a deep flounce. Is headed with a niched pulling ornamented with knots of tinsame. . The bodice Is , of white satin covered entirely with braided embroidery or black guipure. The open front Is filled In with a box-plait of white satin , crossed by narrow Lands of black velvet and held at center by Jet buttons Throat ruche of black silk and straw braid , trimmed with a twist of whltu sllli , muslin and two peacock feathers. A AVAt.KING DURSS. The little promenade gown of diagonal wool Is very cooky. The color of this Is a brilliant brown In one of the rich "tin der" shades , fashion Is beginning to talk about. The effect of the material Is to make the entire gown seem as If cut on the bias , the skirt fitting closely over the hips and the sheath-like bodice fastening at the : back. The girdle , however. Is the feature of this costume , which , becnitso of the back fastening. Is most suited to a young lady. A pointed effect of white satin Is covered with narrow stripes of black velvet , the stripes radiating from the center of the belt and tipped at the ends with small trefolta. Frilled collar of white lk | muslin and cravat of yellow loco. ' The hat worn by this stylish young per son Is one of the simplest of the new sea son's fancies. Headgear , one Is sorrowful to relate , that Is nil ns yet seen , tends to st ward much of the same ovrrtrlmmed top fo heaviness that distinguished summer mil few linery. hi Indeed , thn cumbrous look Is often more dr marked , owing to the decrease In sleeves , so fn [ that many small slight women ant made : to look as If their heads were out of all pro portion to the rest of their anatomy , cc The hat with the diagonal woo ] gown Isle gives the big look without the heaviness , n lo light trimming of black taffeta silk being rlim used for decoration. The felt shape Is one m of tin ) new hairy nouveautls mentloped last fr week , nnd In the same tinder-color ns the in cown material. dn A narrow bias of black velvet binds the loTl edge , a point observed with almost all of the Tl felt hots as yet seen. NINA FITCH. th TMillT CJAIITIJHS. foiai ' aiFi Fiat Their KnVof I'liini the - Whole SJ-H < at U Mini , The garter has become a thing of beauty , all la but It remains n hygienic abonmlnatlon , ac a i cording to the doctors. This refers to the fei round garter the compressor of muscles , Isar the hindrance to the circulation and the ar bonumber of nerves. And It Is this Instrua"r merit of torture on which the manufacturers tiavo lavished their attention until It has sl lccomo so pretty an affair , with Its filigree buckles and Its ribbon bows , that only the ' * most Spartan of women can resist It. ' * ' The round garter , fastened above the kueo. " not considered by physicians quite so sli deadly as the tightly drawn corset. There nn : are no ribs In the leg to be compressed , and HI the vital organs of the body are not located fa the neighborhood of the knee. Hut next the Injurious compression of the waist , bust and abdomen by stays , thu hyglenlsts lace the compression of the leg by elastic or Barters. The rubber bands which encircle u ho flesh just above the knee are dangerous sh because of their effect upon the muscles and tin upon the circulation. The veins are conTli traded and tht ) blood of necessity Is iay retarded In Its flow. The result Is not Its merely local Injury , but harm lo the whole system , which Is affected by the Blugglibuesa da the circulation , vlll Uut the danger does not merely He In an wl Impaired circulation , but Is also muscular , a walking the muscles just above and just jelow tbo knee are brought more Into play than * ny others. The comprcjalun of tie muscles at this point Is therefore .something to be avoided , for It means addltlonil effort at every step , and consequent weariness. Often this fatigue produces muscvll.lr rheu matism , and doctors' bills are Ihe direct result of the frivolous bit of silk clastic rib bon nnd sliver which dealers call n Barter. "Hut. " say the wearers of garters very truly , "we must have something to keep our stockings not only up over our shoe top * , but smooth. " The stocking suspender Is , ac cording to the doctors , thu thing which meets their needs. It extends from the cor set or corset wnlst down the side almost to the knee In one undivided band. Three or four Inches above the knee It divides Into two parts , which extend In V-shape to the top of the stocking and clasp It with a tin or silver clasp , as the case mny be. Unless the elastic Is BO short that It causes a jerk at every step , this suspender Is absolutely hygienic. It may even be made almost as frivolously pretty as the round one , for Its clasps mny be of silver and Itself of ribbon- edged ullk elastic. In winter It Is comparatively easy to hold the stocking In place by the suspender gar ter , for It clings to the silk or woolen union itndersult which all hyglcnlcally-lncllned women wear. In summer , when they are of slippery silk or lisle thread , and when there Is no rough underwear surface to help In holding them in place , they are- apt to slip slightly and He In wrinkles above the shoo top. The truly hygienic woman bears this as bravely ns she can , preferring wrln- the Chinese viceroy. I * extremely rare. Feather merchants * y thyr are very hard ( o find. Their scarcity weulit make them altogether beyond the reacTTJIT the- general public If a demand sot Int/of < fnclr use In dress. , , . , . [ Not only are Chinese lea. Jackets to bo worn , but Chinese gowns. , , ' Tjiese loose fit ting garments are to be lyori only In the privacy of one's own room , . as they arc most ncgllgco creations. As thr an comfort Is concerned , they cannot be excelled. They nro made to hang straight' afin plain from the collar , and have thej'YlcrwIng ' Chinese sleeve. They nre not only piade of yellow Rllk and satin , but porgwnf * ones are fashioned of Imperial red siftln. The rei ! gowns are but seldom trlmfned 'with ' peacock feathers , but nre elaborately embroidered. I.ADIHS IX TUp | ] , Siiuirt Society People .iWIm Are Sue- ND\V YORK. Sept. 17. My lady , the countess , and her grncc the duchess behlm counters , has long since ceased to be a nine days' wonder. In this country , by slow degrees , the same conditions are beginning to prevail One no longer tries to eke out a scanty existence by doing "fancy work" In secret to sell at a woman's exchange. She plunges boldly In mcdlns res nnd establishes a florist or a millinery shop perchance , or a dairy. "Nestledown" Is the charming nnd at tractive name given by the two enterpris ing young society women who have Jus ( opened a florist's shop In the Associate ! artists' building. Tlio membcis of the Ncs- tlcdown Flower company are Mlsa Hedmond a. relative of Kdward Cooper ; Miss Sallle Tucker and Mrs. Candacc Wheeler , presi dent. The place Is nrtlstlc , even from the ex terior , where a glass-enclosed case holds many wild flowers , nnd old-fashioned blos soms , which one Is unaccustomed to see nt a city florist's. One of the bends of the firm mnkes nn cnrly start In the morning to n a OCTOBER STREET GOWNS. klcs to compression. She relies upon the suspender garter to hold the stocking up ; but she also wears a pair of somewhat loose round garters below the knee to keep the stockings from wrinkling. If the exigencies of tidiness absolutely demand the round garter It Is much better that It should be worn below the knee than above. For the leg just below the knee has extensive area of bone which ordinary clastic Is powerless to compress. A CIII.VI3SU II113A. Ten. .TneUetN IlulU oil ( lie 11 ClmiiK Style. Ultra-fashlomiblo women In Paris are nt present returning thanks for the recent visit to that gay capital of LI Hung Chang. Not that they cared aught for the Inquisi tive oriental , but that Worth , the man milliner , ever on the alert for novelty , was Inspired on seeing the gigantic Chinaman to ilcvlsu a new negligee garment. When 1,1 was in Paris of course he wore his far- famed yellow Jacket. Ills much-prized three- uycd peacock feather was also In evidence , and after Li's departure from the French apltal Worth showed to a few of his fa vored customers the most unique Parisian novelty of the hour the LI Hung Chang tea jacket , but onedoesn't liavo to be a viceroy to wear It. A pretty woman will answer the purpose Just as well. Not only lias Worth made fashionable China's most celebrated decoration , the yellow Jacket , hut ho has also given distinction to the L'clestlal empire's other noted Insignia of honor , the three-eyed peacock feather. The new tea Jacket Is tdaborately embroidered with pacock feathers , and the old super stition of their being unlucky Is fast being forgotten. Some way. Just how no one Is willing ! to say , the LI Hung Chang tea jacket lias reached this country. One of the best Ircssmakerd In New York City has nn order or three of thesenegllgeu Jackets , Her ustomers are prominent society women. The jacket Itself , which Is such a skillful combination of Chinese and Parisian Ideas , n loose-fitting coat admirably adapted for lounging purposes. Gay yellow silk of n Ich quality Is the material of which It Is made , The jacket hangs straight and full from the collar both back and front , fasten ing Invisibly in front. At the neck Is a lashing yellow ullk bow , which Is tied with long ends reaching l > 3low thu jacket Itself , rhcso ends nre gorgeously embroidered with lliree-cyed peacock feathers ; the eyes are 'ormcd of glistening Jewels. The Idea of the arge bow with Its flowing ends Is exclusively I'Ycneh , LI Hung Chang's jacket Is finished thu neck with nothing but a straight col- ar band. The new tea jacket has the front ilso umbroldcred with peacock feathers , and hand of these embroidered jewel-studded eatliera also edge the flowing sleeves , There nothing French about the sleeves. They ire wholly and entirely Chinese. They are made of exactly square pieces of silk and ire plain , full and flowing , the typical Chi- lese Bleove. Not only are they finished out- ildo < with an embroidered band of peacock leathers , but the uaino design Is worked on the ' Inside of the sleeve at the edge. This en Jacket , made to order , costs $75 , linlta'- Jon ' jewels , of course , being used. If the dlk Is Imported direct from China It Is even nore expensive. It may bo made of yellow Iberty satin as well as silk , and bo equally 'ashlonable and effective. This LI Hung Chang tea jacket may bo nade to order In any color the fair cus- omer may chose , but If carried out In Us irlglnal ! design It must bo In yellow. Hut bo quite correct the fashionable woman hould have her new tea jacket made of yellow illk Imported direct from China , rhls will cost more , but In the end will , as the weave of the silk shows plainly Chinese origin , and its wearing ca- laclty Is unequalled , To a woman with lark skin and black or dark brown hair It be most becoming. It Is well for those i'ho are obliged to practice some economy the purchase of their new gowns that the leacock feathers on their tea jacket are iinbroldcred. The three-eyed peacock tatter , which Is the uulquo decoration a ! glvo her orders for the day at a wholesale dealer's , and from 8 o'clock until G o'clock the shop is open and business lively. Other society women who are debutantes In trade are the Misses Cottenet , who are "silent partners" of their brother , Rawllns Cottenet , the young man who , although In great demand as best man and usher at swell weddings , a late Vanderbllt one for Instance , still finds work a necessity to keep thu wolf from the door. So diligent has he been that his Moral establishment has be come a great success. The aristocratic Misses Van nenssclaer were also said to have been Interested In the dairy their brother , young Mr. Van Renssclaer , started not long ago. The young society women who go Into busi ness from necessity are almost equaled in number by the young women who take up a profession for pleasure , pure nnd simple. For Instance , Miss Beatrix Jones , daughter of Mrs. Ilhlnelandcr. Jones , who a few years ago became so much Interested In forestry and landscape gardening that she set to work systematically to make n thorough study of the subject. After learning all she could In this country she went abroad and put herself under the best instruction. Just at present she Is engaged In the pursuit of her profession and working away with great zeal and energy. She has two contracts on her hands , and two largo estates at liar Harbor In time will blossom Into beauty under her skilled direction. Miss Jones puts on rubber boots and goes right Into thu mire and mud to superintend the clearing , drainIng - Ing and arranging of the 400 or more acres of land upon which an army of men are at work , To run a hotel seems hardly the province of a woman , yet , a summer or two ago , Miss Anle Corbln , daughter of the lute Aus tin Corbln , managed a small hostelery down at the Shlnnecnck Hills , Long Island , where h r family and several friends spent the summer. Miss Corbln Is w.ld to havt > dis played remarkable executive ability and the work was not displeasing to her. Fa.- from It , In fact , and she declares that If over called upon to make her living , we will keep a hotel or a boarding house , Two daughters of Illshop Potter , who , by the way , Is not a rich man and has a large family , mode a respectable Income from their small Inn In the Adirondack ! * , where for several summers they took a number of friends und catered to their wants , Iht'so bo enterprising young women hava slnco mar Is ried , but If ever fortune frowns upon them , without doubt they will rU ; lobiy to the occasion and Into " 'j'Jslness" go "p ! lu , or trade. ' Still another young society woman , nlt-co of a well known and brilliant phyhldan , Is will conducting a small hotel Jn fhe suburbs of New York city , and she , ' .too , IB making a Is eucccsa of her chosen proffS5Jon. In England establishments , thus set up have been under the tltlqd names of their proprietors. f for The duchess of Hamilton , , "for Instance , has opened a butter shop a ( Ipswich , and ter her rarts and billheads bear her own name In full. Lady Shaftesbur" cIs | the fruit nnd dairy produce from het own farms , All the rich people on the Isle'of Wight buy and their butter of Mrs. Hallani Tennyson. Mrs. Charles Kerr , sister-lii-la'- ' Lord Dun- of ravun , has her own name over her millinery shop. Hut the list Is a long one. So many blue Indeed are the ladles In trade In England , that a London Society of Lady- Dressmakers and Milliners has been formed as a sort of the titled . trust to prevent the lowering of prices by too much competition. Any one wishing to enter must furnish testimonials of nodal position as well as of character. Paris , too , and Is following the example set by London In that thu matter of titled shopkeepers , ami a the young countess has recently opened an es half tablishment where for a consideration , ho well supplies her friends with robes and chapeaux , _ to THU CIIOW.M.VG KI.OUY. an NtloiiN Aliiiiil ( lit ! Cure unit I'r - - a ervnlloii of ( lip llulr. Every lady knows , no matter how stylish the and becoming her gown 1s , unless her hair with of I * well dressed her appearance Is spoiled. But there are comparatively few women , ' says the New York Ledger , who actually know whentheir ' hair 1st becomingly r- j ranged. Itis one of trie strange thing * about women that , although the most o them do up their hair twice n day every day of their lives seven hundred and thirty times a year ; think of It ! It Is n rare thing to find one who docs It up to bring out the KOCH ! points In her face. In a recent talk with n leading hair dresser , he said one reason why so manj women fallid to dress their hair becoming ! ) was they failed to consider the proportions between the head and the body. Any hair dresser acquainted with his business wll tell you the head should be the eighth part of the body , but there are very few women who have any Idea whether their heads are an eighth or a sixth. "You see. then , " he said , "If a lady's hrlqlit Is five feet four Inches , her hca < ought to be eight inches round. Now , verj often her brad Is found to be ton Inches. In this ease , unless great care Is taken to tires * her hair ns small as possible , she will look top-heavy , and no amount of dressing , In the way of clothes , can possibly make her graceful. A few general rules In regard to halrdresslng should never be lost sight of tin matter In what particular style the hair may be drcss d. "The hair should always b ; ? dressed on tor ns wide as the broader part of the face. II Hie cars project they should bo hidden with loose hair , but It close to the head the hair should bo drawn away , so as to show them as much ns possible "With a round face the hair should be diessed high off the forehead. With n long , tl-.ln fac.3. It ought to be worn Mat. and nil MrAlght lines In continuation of the nose line must be avoided , as they help to show every Imperfection. "A scft , pretty face must bo framed In n simple coiffure , while n lady of handsome , commanding appearance demands an flab orttc one. An open , friendly face does not want to be hidden under n fringe which fnlU too low on the forehead , and so darkens It. "Don't wnuli the hnlr too often. It wtalc- ena It. Once a week In summer , once a month In winter. Is sufllclcut. Always dry the scalp carefully nftcr washing. This Is ono of the reasons why n professlonnl hnlrw dresser does his work so much better than a lady can do It nt home , for ho has his dry01 Ing mnchliu' to do It In live minutes , while she has to sit with her hair spread out for hours , and then , perhaps , does not thorth oughly dry It. t'so ' tepid water , with n liter tie bicarbonate of soda added , nnd for soap that containing the least alkali and most glyccrlno la the best Don't strangle your hair to death by braiding It tightly nt night. Don't crush Its life out by heavy pads , hats or bonnets. Don't poison It by quack nos trums nnd lotions , and don't starve It for need of a good hair tonic at times. Trim It at least once a month. Nothing Is a more valuable preventive of falling hair than this. Drush It nt least once n day , nml use a brush with long bristles , soft and yield- ins. " _ _ UM'AC'KI.VC Ol.l ) CI.OTIIK.S. KION | mill SeuiiiN I'fTn < < < ! by Simple Mr a IIN. Garments packed away In the early spring He heavily on one's mind these September . days. No matter how carefully they may have been folded and cleaned there will be wrinkles nnd spots enough to make ono wish the wholq lot had been lost by some wealthy railway company obliged to supply an ample cheque to replace them. However , any woman who attacks these clothus armed with "rubblt" and an ample bottle of soap bark , another generous-sized one of gasoline nnd n small box of powdered French chalk may snap her lingers nt Beams nnd spots. The first attnck must be nt the wrinkles nnd If the garments are hung over night on the lines In the drying room , or , better still , on not too bright n day , In the open air , the wrinkles will disappear , unless It bo from some very soft "slinky" fabric , when a flat Iron ( not ns you respect your clothes let It be too hot ) , must be used , indeed , with llssc and satin , an Iron scarcely mure than warm , will work wonders. DEALING WITH SPOTS. Next , in a clear light , the artist's north light If possible , search must be made for those subtle mean-spirited spots , which have possum-like way of hiding themselves. When you have one , mark It carefully , for when you lay the garment' In another lighten on the cleaning board , lo , tho.ro will be no blemish to be seen. The soap bark , which Is Invaluable aUo for removing spots from men's and boys' clothes , Is mailo as follows : Pour upon 5 cents' worth ( one ounce ) of soap bark , to be bought at any druggist's , n pint of boiling water , let It stand over night , strain through a fine sieve , add a gill of alcohol and it Is ready for use and will keep uny length of time. If enough of the liquid Is needed to wash out the breadths of a gown to be made over the proportion should be the same , but a larger amount ; the alcohol Is to be dispensed with , when used at once or within a day or two. Henrietta cloth or any soft all wool or silk material washed In this way nnd pressed while slightly damp looks every whit as good as new , and Is as clean as n THE nunniT. Any house mother or "guide wife" who desires to keep her husband and boy nnd her own skirts spotless should never be without a rubbit. It Is made of rather coarse , soft , all wool cloth of a light color that will not leave lint or tattle cf Its use ; there should bo two or three thicknesses of this and It may bo made like an Iron holder , or fitted Into the wooden arrangesk ment , with a "knobby" handle at the top , such as Is used for blotting paper. This should be kept with the bottle of soap hark and when the spring and fall cleaning takes place a second flat rubblt should be at hand to lay under the spots to absorb moisture when they are being rubbed. A heavy hand Is ruinous In cleaning clothes , the rubbing must be brisk and light ; there must be no pressing down ; this gives the threadbare , white look , which once carelessly attained can never be done away with , Where spots are positively known to Rr be from grease French chalk laid on over tr night never falls to remove and will not In- jure the frailest fabric. w CLEANING GLOVES. If there Is a heap of light or dirk gloves , " either suede or dressed kid , and another of of soft Bilk sashes and neckt | > j < j , really mag ical work may be wrought -vith the gaso line. Should the heap bo large do not beK gin with less than n quart , 0 cents' wor'h , Br but bo careful to keep away from flic or a lamp-light , as this Is an explosive. Pour ' half a pint of the gasoline Into a small wash bowl , take the gloves or ribbons , one nt a time , dip them In and rub between the hands as you would linen In waler ; use this 'K ' until It Is very dark looking , then throw out eo and rinse In clear , thin last will do for th- ) first washing of thu second lot , and so on of until the work Is finished. The articles will cli soft , not stiff and horny , nu when benzine a used , and the gloves are so pliable that re tlioy need not be dried on the hand. at As odors ascend. It Is well to use the gas oline , If possible. In the upper stories of a or house or In the open 'air , and great care a must bo taken In airing the articles , as It j\ | take several days and nights for the y(1 unpleasant odor to evaporate. The open air wl the best , but the smell will disappear eventually If they are hung la any open space. They should also be packed away li , Q some sweet smelling lavender or orris root a while before using ; unless stained with . . perspiration they will look like new no mat- not J how soiled , ' , If the cloth gown was packed away , after being worn through a season with , for Instance , a white waistcoat and collars cuffs , braided with black , the whole character of the costume and even the color the cloth will be unrecognizable If these small accessories are changed. Corntlower braided with hazel-brown or primrose yellow with black , makes 2 delightful her cluugo and one to bo very fashionable for coming season. The changn of sleeves this season also gives the cunning woman a wonderful op portunity for making an old gown new such a woman Is wise enough to know once a costume has been adapted to linen of her figure and Is becoming , She the battle Is won and makes the old nor worth battling with. Host people come to grief In striving recur ) ostrich plumes , but these have never probably' tried the effect of using aril ordinary whalebone , made as hot as pay curling Iron. Ileware of taking but one tendril of the feather at a time , this gives ugly tight curl ono alwny * associates amateur work , A half dozen or more these tendrils should be taken , the warm whalebone put low down near the stem and drawn up carefully , to as tu glvo a curling I ' bend to tlio fe.ither ln t .i < l of n tight ' curl. Ilepeat this , with a bunch of tr.idrlls _ at n time , until the whole Is curled , 1'nxliloii > olex. Ulack satin girdles are n feature of early autumn gonns. Soft Liberty t > ! lks am ! satins Will ngnln lie used for evening dros a. nnd also for bridesmaids' gowns. Thr * qoilct lut.llcc. with Its full pcplunt , b vanishing , but sktrts to ualsts will be the autumn fashions. O.its. wheat , nnd even corn leaves arc seen tn some early autumn millinery , nota bly In ha's that coir.c out from London. Tailors and dressmakers arc using very expensive but'oiu In graduated sizes to trim bodices and coats , nnd also skirts that have lapped seams. The newest parasols are In flowered silk and they ate exceedingly pretty. The sticks tre ilnlshe.l wlilt animals' head ? , green par rots nnd ducks being favorites. Yellow brocades In pale or deep , tints mbadeup In Jos pliliic or Mi'tle ' Antoinette fashion , will be one of the very fashionable evening toilets this winter. Hold-OS and Jacket bodices wlikh have been of lace tluou h tlio summer , \\o\\ show In vchet to be worn over vests of sheer batlstu embroldprcd In Kei.alasanee pat terns. One of the newest hnlr ornaments Is a bin ! set on a ilc.\ll > le mount , iir.d which sways with every movement of the wc-arer. An other Is an exact imitation of the tall of the lyre bird , A collar cape , unmistakably Fieneh , seen nt n watering place fete , wns a short , pointed , double cape made- entirely o Valenciennes lace lufllcs , a larfio pink boat \ at the back , The sash made of wide , medium or narrow width ribbons and of patterns both plali and fancy will be In high favor this autumn nnd winter and will bo equally favored 01 d.iy and evening gowns Buttons arc visibly Increasing In Irnpor tnncu nml there Is no danger of their belnt , used to excess , ns was the case when buttom worv last popular as a garniture three nm four dozen being often employed to decnratt one gown. The sepnratcbo.llce cf silk Islown In the list of autumn must-haves ngnln to replace the faithful cambric and batiste wnlst. The only novelty about them Is that they will tone rather than contrast with their ac- companyltiK skrts. : Skirt trimmings nro creeping In , though they seem so fnr to be conllned to very full boufTant rucl.es about the bottom , cords or narrow embroidery outlining the seams , or narrow pointed panels set In ftin shape on each side of the front. Old-fashioned flounces are coming back to is oven flounces half way up the skirt nnd they supply a very graceful way to renovate a black silk by flouncing It with silk muslin , covering the waist and shirring the muslin over the close black sleeves , using deep lounces of the muslin for bertha and epaulets. Odd color melanges appear among some of ho youthful toilets , like nun's gray and .leranlum red. old rose and palest blue , pink nnd amber , primrose yellow and Parma violet , etc. Pi-plum panels appear on a few of the skirts and graceful princcsse dresses nrc slashed on the skirt seams and buttoned up the back for slender young wearers. The Hlarrltz glove without buttons Is a very comfortable one for overy-day uses. It Is chosen , as a rule , a size larger than other gants , nnd , having no buttons , Is easily ad justed and removed. The four-button glace kid and motisquetalre are preferred for wear with pretty afternoon costumes und the Sill mousituetalro In the varying tnn shades s reserved for more dressy uses. Crisp , lustrous grosgralns , French failles , and other coided silks in deep , rich shades of brown , dahlia. Husslan blue , moss green , reseda , etc. , and also in the lovely neutral tints of fawn , dove gray , and silver , will be much used for dressy gowns this season , the bodice draped with moussclaino do sole ; and to Impart a touch of color , a belt and collar of bright-lined velvet are added. Now that skirts are being made even plainer than In the early summer , the broad , rich sheen of the wide sash and the dressy-looking shower of loops and ends of the narrowei ones add color and finish to the costume , unite the contrasting hues of skirt and bodice , and tend to do away with the cut-ln-two-scctlons effect , which Is the only objection one can see to the fashion o' the separate bodice and skirt. A simple and pretty cape to accompany an i autumn tailor costume Is cut rounding In shape'and all In onepiece. . It Is twenty- two Inches long and lined with Iridescent taffeta silk. H has a deep turn-over col lar faced with velvet. It Is fastened with two very handsome buttons of large size and machli'.e-stitclied cloth straps. The cape Is finished with seven rows of flat braid stitched on the upper edge. Sleeves may be different In fabric from the rest of the costume and yet please la mode. A number of very handsome Paris autumn gowns are made In this style ; one of black rrpped silk with a lustrous fin ish , made up with accessories of black mnussclalne do sole , has sleeves of russet- colored Lyons sptln covered with the silk muslin , and ru files of the same at thu top. A belt of russet velvet encircles the waist , nnd the collar to match Is studded with mock gems. Onu of the prettiest now evening gowns seen for ibis season is madu of tea- rose-pink liberty satin , a broad reseda green sash encircling the waist , looped at the back , and falling In wide ends to the hem of the skirt. Hut these broad belts , either softly folded or made plain over stiff belting , how ever chick per so and becoming to some forms , are never advisable for short , stout women. Here the object Is to strengthen the figure ; therefore n pointed girdle , made to fit closely over the top of the skirt and encircling : the waist nt Its lowest line , Is much more becoming. English corduroy will enter Into some of the most fashionable day gowns of the lute autumn and winter , and will lie especially popular In dark green nnd In Its familiar iray shades , combined with brown cloth and trimmed ; with black , n quaint arrangement Of color that rivals the popularity of green with black or of suede with green. A stylish ' Imported gown has a rcdlngoto of cloth finished In tailor style and open over a skirt corduroy. The capo collar , rovers and cuffs are also of corduroy. A tnn-tcilored corduroy Is similarly made up , with a redln- goto of dark Husslnn-bluo cloth ; nnd a moss- green costume Is In eoat and skirt form , with vest , collar and cuffs of suede cloth , over laid with green and gold braid. Winifred Dickson , a woman surgeon , has been appointed examiner In surgery In the college of Dublin. Mrs , Jessie Ilcnton Fremont IH a member the advisory board of the Landmarks club , an organization formed at Los Angeles few months ago for the preservation und restoration of the old mission buildings and other relics as monuments and landmarks. The mother of Aubrey lleardslcy , the artist , of the weirdly symbolical school , Is gentle , old-fashioned English woman , who lives entirely for her son and his pretty young sister. Mrs. Ileardslcy regards him with reverential admiration ; but ho Is said not to take himself ovcr-seriously. , Mine. Paul Illouet , the wife of "Max O'Hell , " Is one of thu most helpful "help meets" a literary man could have. She Is only thu translator of all her1 husband's books Into English , but Is an excellent cook , and Is to bo teen at her very be-st when entertaining her husband's friends , whose name Is legion. The little QiKenMlliclmlna of Holland has a chalet a little playhouse In the Swiss style , which verves , not merely us u playhouse for her , but a means by which ht-r practical mother , the queen regent , teaches young daughter how to keep house. ! The chalet Is well stocked with toys , and ; hero slio frequently receives her friends. | cooking for the favored ones come delect able Dutch dish. Miss Clara Howard Is working her way through the University of California. Miss ' Howard refuses to bo called a new woman. 1 does not believe In woman suffrage , bloomers , nor Htump-S | > eaklii < ; for ' women , but she does believe In woman getting an education , and a thorough one , ' even If ho has to work for it. MUs How- Is delivering newspapers In order to her way through the university at Uerkeley. j The wife of Dr. Nansen , the distinguished explorer Fru Nunsen , e.a Is her Norwegian j title Is a woman of splendid health und Indomitable courage. It was her dearest wUh to accompany her husband tu the frozen rcgloci , ami liu would liavo hud ao I ' Vir.-.nnnl fcnr of her danger In permitting It. t but lolli rained that Ihe presenceof a \\3iran , that worinn the trader's wife- , * not just In the other members of the haz ardous And uncertain expedition. Frti Nansen. In nddllbn to her uti-rncr qualities of physic In ! etrfiiRth and pluck , posacsics , as Is well known , n voice of rare sweet ness and powc-r. She has suns frequently In concerts during her hunbund's Absence- . " " \vi7iu ij. Cur < M-I- r it t'Viitlirrrd I'lilliititlirnitUti Willie WAS a yellow canary bird and a Philanthropist. Itlrd husbands and fathers nio usually good family men. so tn speak , but 1 don't think you'll hear of many that navp treated the otphini and the stranger with as much Christian feeling n our Wll- lie Khoncil. Perhaps ho was a di'soondnnt of some of the birds it. ? Francis used to preach to , and had kept the good monk's teachings In his heait , ho knows ? Willie was ( .pending the summer In n big house In an old California mining town. Thu house , which had been built befoio the inlno falli'd. by ono of Its sanguine owners , was so big that the inlstrr * * and her family , Including Willie , only occupied one wing of It , nnd through the las of the IdlmU of the deserted rooms tht little California linnets would slip In nnd build their nests In the window sills. Perhaps they did It because In the trers nml shrubbery the blKKcr birds nnno.M-d them , for I ho whole place was altvo with birds. The Illinois are little things like canaries , only dark colored. Their fondness for window sills brought one fam ily to grief , for the w hid blow the slats RO that tlio mother bird could not creep back to her newly hatched offspring. When the mistress happened to took In on them ono day to RCO how that particular brood was flourishing , u dreadful sight * ho . aw. Four of the bindings were dead , nml the fifth nnd last wns. of course , ready to breathe Its last. Shu took It In her hand and ran for food ami water ; a drop of wntor on the end of a straw she got In Its mouth , but It seemed to lose most of It. All farther efforts tn help the gasping little thing fulled till a child , little Rosa , * al.l . : "Put It Into Willie's cage ; maybe he eim food It. " Well , It was about to dlo anyhow. Wllllo would not feed It of course , but then that wah the wny the grown people talked but little Rosa knew more about Willie than all of them. No sooner was the wretched bird laid on the Hoof of his cane. \ \ Ith a cup of bread and milk beside It , than Wlllln huffed nil his feathers nnd jumped down beside It In a great excitement. One cock- hcnded sharp glance ami then ho fell la work putting bread nnd milk down the linnet's red little throat , wldo-slretchcd now , though tho- other nurses had not been nblo to persuade It to open Its bill. And oh ! how proud and busy nnd funny the canary wns. The linnet had to be taken nway or It would have been Htutled to death ; but it's life was saved now , and nfter the tlrst day It was left In Wllllo's cngo , and he ( stopped singing entirely and gave up bl.s whole time and attention to the baby's care and education. And now comes the most singular thing of all ; nnd that Is that a ninlo linnet was seen several times coming und feeding Wllllo's charge through the ulros. No mother and two fathers had that little ono ! Wllllo , like many another guardian , married his ward after she grew up , ami they lived happily over after. = 3 When the hair begins tu Tall out and lose Hi lustre and beauty by turiiltiK gray or faded , what more evidence it needed to prove Hint its health is affected ? and lliat It needs medicine ? No more , I assure you , for there is n cause' for every symptom that Hie ImirRlvts of turiilnir grny or losln.7 its beauty in any form. lfor ns the hnlr is a pnrt of the human body , it is subject lo ailment ( is well as nny other part , nnd therefore should be treated fiitclllRcntly. Hut contrary to this common-sense lojjic , no greater insult or worse abuse could be heaped upon tills dcfeiisclebH member ofotir person than tile use of hair dye. To color the poor Hick hair with hair dye , and thereby drown Us feeble cry for nourishment , is in Itself n sin and n crime against nature , . . . , , . , < _ - on Ignorant humanity that will not yield to the laws of nature and study the needs of their own body , Mme. M. Yale's Tonic Is n medicine for curing sick hair. His the only remedy on record known to restore the natural color to grey hnir. H nourishes the roots nml gives circulation to the oil ducts , permeating It with nature's own coloring matter that flows through the channels of the hair when It Is in nil healthful ' stale ns faithfully ns the warm blood docs through our veins , Mine. Yale's Hair I'onlcla the result of n care- fut analysis of the human hair by Mme. Vale , tl'at wonderful woman chemist and scientist , who guarantee. * Yale's Hair Tonic tueoiilaln pre cisely the natural constituent ! , of the hair's own matter prepared in it chemical form. It Mops Hi ? hair fallitif ; in from twenty-four hours to one lYcek. Cures Dandruff ; stiffens dry , harsh hair ; mates the hnlr soft , glossy mid finny- keeps it in curl , und curefc nil manner of bcafp diseases nid hair nilnients , producing n growth ofliixurt * mil hair of its own rich , iintiirii color , no matter what tint may lie black , blonde or brown. I'or children nnd ndullit males or females. f 1.00 per buttle ; six lor fs.ou. MM ) : . H. VAI.i : , Dcnutjr im < I Compli-ifon HpeciuUjL ' 1'emplo of llruutr , 110 oli.lo lUicut , C'ulcuuo. Who read The Omaha Sunday Bee Have the benefit of a Woman's department Replete with Fashion News , Gossip about famous women , Reports of woman's activity , Notes about woman's influence ' And all the features of a clean , bright , whole some newspaper.