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THE OMAHA DAILY BEE : SUNDAY , DEOEMBEB 25 , 1898.
r -i . ) FASHION NOVELTIES. * Hevlerr the Varied-Confection * ( or * Woman' * Wear and Ailoriiment. NEW'YORK , Deo. 23. The temperature without' Is apt to govern our thoughts and < % lk , which , oven now In the holidays , turn persistently to wraps. The last word In this department of the feminine wardrobe rccom- nfends tbo USD of corduroy and already a generation ofM slope-tailed walking coats , inug pelisses and shawl-shaped capes of corduroy are' In evidence. With customary discretion the women do not adopt any but the very soft tones Inthese goods , Becking variety and galty of effect In the use of cut Btcol buttons and handsome lace jabots un der the throat' . Smoke-grey , olive-brown arid the green of dried hay are the colors tnost sought after In these wraps that are oqo and all set off with deep fur cuffs and collars/ passing , it may be safely said that a 6orduroy wrdp"lined vwlth satin Is as wjarm a garment as 'most weather necessi tates and these novelty wraps that are said to , hall from England have a cut arrange ment which does quite'away with the need of' a miiff. 'The countcM of Stafford went off after her wedding In a very covetable coat of dried hay-green corduroy that b'ad a long , round tall , edged with Russian sables , falling over the hips , with sable-edged rcvcrs turning back from a full jabot of gray Russian lace a collar of cable turning up close about the threat and not a sign of a muff. Fold- 1 i. ' < V V . , ' , , 4 < . ' * ' Ing a gold framework holding a beautifully cut bit of jade. Another costly smart collarette of Tan. gerlne velvet will have Us wide bow and neck stock Inserted with hands of Brus. 1 eels loco that Is mellow from age. Some what lower down In the scale of prices Is a ruffle neckpiece with front tabs , made nit of a pretty grayish applique lace , having 1 every Inch of Its figuring outlined In peach- colored velvet bebe ribbon. Beside these doubly dear trifles the chiffon sailor knots , I or those of Liberty , silk , accordion pleated ! and drawn through a narrow clasp at I jowelcd or bullion lace. Down low In the scale of prices for nock- lets are crisp , becoming ones for thirty-five cents made of cream pleated point eeprlt. A pleated band Incloses the throat and two accordion wrinkled sailor tabs drop on the chest Into the knot of this fresh white tie a bright brooch or scarfpln is usually thrust , and save for- the sentiment of the thing the 35-ceht scarf i's every whit as effective as the one that cost J30. Comfort Unit * . Fashion and Christmas traditions have also fraternized jover the ; very sumptuous comfort bags that the women carry In place of bouquets to the opera and theater. Reticule * of pt and plum-colored satin brocaded la gold , uiid then criss-crossed with narrow quillings of a green or yellow chiffon are the most popular conveyances for the small fan. handkerchief , glasses , smelling salta * ' . : V t I TWO RICH RECE PTION GOWNS. lap away from her delicately gloved bands , however were huge cavalier cuffs of sable , and by the simple device of turning down tbo , cuffs over her fingers and clasping her hands together , the edge of one cuff slipped inside the other and a perfect shield ogalnst the cold , was ' 'formed. It Is needless to say that tha'cuffs were faced on both sides with 4 l For Throat and Ilnndi. CoM w ath r gossip recalls another bcnefl- eeijt device of the furriers. This la a boa made of-four mink , or sable , or fox bodies lliikod together , the teeth and claws at either cpd of the soft scarf fastening In prettily Jeweled rings that depend from the outside 'iclges of a roll of fur that consti tutes the muff. Not to be outdone by the furYters And milliners the tailors , are up-to- time with rcariy luxurious hand warmers of cloth richly braided to be' slung about then ' n ck by suede straps' fastened with hand some bucklce. else a band of plaited silk cord Is used with jeweled slip catches at the end that'Snap Into smair gold or silver rings sewed In the end * of the muffs. fashion has her uses even at Christmas tltne. for an abundance of smart presents ar * ' to be exchanged this year between femi nine friends in the form of gorgeous waist coat front * for fur coats , elaborate ruches n4 boas for wear at ball's and the opera , splfndldly brocaded rcvers and collars with which to differentiate evening gowns and velvet cloak * , whlfo some of the heck bows , carfs and collarette * given and received are eailly valued at $20 apiece and even more. Borao of these bow * , made In the form of full fane to spread over the chest and surmounted by twisted skeleton knots of Loilr'Qtllrfte * napo"6f- colored Velvet , gav6 risible excuse for their costliness when one came to examine the fan of exquisite Vene tian lac * , and th * hurt of th bow show and comfit box that the women like to have near. ' ' 4Mrs. Henry Clews takes on her arm to her box seat a bag of pearl-grey moire I | painted with trails of periwinkles , her fa vorite flower this winter. .Its four Asides are edged with silver fringe and it hangs by a silver chain from" her girdle , or her wrist , or the back of her chair. Numbers of women adopt little satchel- shaped bag.of antique brocade with clasps and bindings of gold , supplied with a very positive gold lock and key. . Others who are determined on novelty go calling with bags of doeskin on their arms , elaborately and expensively beaded by Indian squaw * and mounted on frames of perfectly'unpol- Ubed Klondike gold In pouch-shape. All Are of Chiffon. The dressmakers , driven well nigh to desperation in their search of some means by which to give a hundred and eighty- pound patron some of the Imperatively fash ionable semblance of almost sorpent-like slenderncsB , have adopted at last the Paris ian expedient of making calling , as welt as dinner , opera and ball gowns , all of chiffon. The superstructure BO diaphanous Is built on a foundation of liberty silk , or crepe do chine , and. It is almost necessary to attend a special school of deportment In order to learn how to carry such a skirt with dignity and modesty. To the wedding reception of Mr * . Colgate - gate and the carl of' Stafford several of these skirts -were worn with notably long trains , and at the first great afternoon re ception In December -Mr * . Harry Payne Whitney , who Is a * slim as she Is tall and graceful , appeared In a very much trained cotum * of beet ro'ot colored chiffon adorned on It * flounces , foot and drapery edge * with narrow band * of sable. Her waist of chiffon , ovar llk nt tb * * ama color , turned back wide revera of Venetian lace , heavily set with turquoise beads , just over the bust from a square bib similarly decorated. Her high collar was of lace set with blue , and her tight-tucked sleeves had a row of tiny turquoise buttons , running , from wrist to shoulder , over the outside of her arm. An oddity noticed with this toilet and that of many other ultra fashionable women was a single lowered chain falling from the girdle , and to It was suspended a very , very small Recamler fan with gilded wooden sticks and a narrow mount of painted parchment. The second striking point was the enormously flaring cuffa which were BO full and so deep that when the arm hung slack only the very tips of the fingers could be seen. As a result of thceo cuffs , Into one of which as much as i a yard and a half of delicate lace Is often i thickly pleated , only two buttoned gloves can be worn , and the thinnest white Pyren- necs kid , undressed , It considered the most modish selection. For walking a new four- buttoned glove has been brought out , and for warmth they ar lined about the wrist with a close-woven plaid silk. Too Ci.Mtly for Itnln. 1 In the dear old days of comparative sim plicity In dress a woman , with her winter costume , usually carried a close rolled um brella showing a soberly handsome handle' Just now frivolity Is rampant In the urn- brclla department , and In fair weather , a In foul-she ; w o-walks carrlee her unlbrellA mainly to excite curiosity admiration and covetousncss of Its handle. It Is now nurs to bpr as largo as that on a man's umbrellaV and cut of" wood , or ivory , or precious metal , to show .tho beautifully , modeled head of a horse stretched as in the excitement of a race , strapped into bridle of gold and .he eyes superbly polished sanguine ngatct. Another favorite cutting in wood la that of a hare's head with large eyes of cloudy amethysts ; an Ivory elephant's head with ruby eyes and gold tusks Is qulto n marvel of the jeweler's art , while a handle made all of gold , exquisitely enameled In opales cent effects and the crook formed by an out-thrust scrgcnt's head with diamond eyes , \B \ one of the new umbrellas that went for a Christmas gift to handsome Mrs. Goo- let . The heads of greyhounds and does , Black Forest boars , mild-faced Jersey milkers with' jeweled rings In their noses , are among the other extravagantly dear and beautiful de signs on umbrellas that the smart women carry tenderly In the crooks of their elbows as If they were babies. To add to the sumpt uous excellence of these umbrellas their ferw rules are of gold , their silk cords and tassels have guards of gold set with stones , and the light steel ribs are garnished with French'gilt. All the while only a good grade of plain , black Mlk is stretched on such magnificent frames , but that Is a small matter , since their owners consider them far too precious to wear out In the rain. Tulle TnrhuiiM. To discourse on hats is to dwell chiefly on the recent proncneea of women to wear small three-cornered affairs of one color of felt faced with another. For example , a weet pearl gray felt will have tti brim looped away from the face In three places nnd covered all on the underside with a warm shade of dahlia felt , then a big bow of dahlia velvet is set upon one side with a turquoise heart , from which springs a big black osprey. That is the sort of hat that youthful beauty wears to Its advantage , while among the most becoming possessions of young matrons are bonnets made of creamy raw In a perfect cap-shape , showing a wide winged bow of velvet up In front. The toqueryall of bird breasts hold their own gallantly , and with doml toilets It Is no longer uncommon to see a stately fowf with breast , head , wings and tall settled down as If for comfortable nesting on a woman's head. The head rears up finely , with a black osprey topknot and diamond eyes , right over tlie brow , while the feathered body com pletely covers the hair. Unfortunately , these birds are dyed the most unnatural tints of pale-pink and green and lilac , and thus all Eemblance of nature is destroyed. Quito as gay and somewhat more appro priate are the really lovely and huge bon nets of blue , pink , white and black gilded tulle. Women wear these when going rounds of reception-teas , and to weddings or to opera matinees , if the luxury of a box IB enjoyed. f iy are often as big as Hindoo turbans and consist of ropes and winds and bows and puffs of tulle piled on a skeleton wire tramp. Gilt Is not only woven Into the tulle , but spangles , large and small , are powdered on until by gaslight an Idea of a fairy crown is conveyed. Pin * with spangle heads are used to hold them in place , and convey a deceptive notion that the bonnet Is resting by magic In place. MARV DEAN. HEALTHY INFANTS. Treatment for HenrliiK Children Ileo- oniinended r I'rofecnlonnl * . "The average child comes into the world healthy and ordinarily it can be kept so , " aid Miss Martanna Wheeler , the superin tendent and head nurse In the Babies' hos pital of New York. Miss Wheeler has been associated with Dr. L. Em melt Holt , Amer ica's fashionable baby doctor , in the man agement of this , hospital since Its founding. In the care of babies , the homely everyday side , she is considered by this physician as I.the best authority not only on this continent , but in the world. "The nursery should be the brightest , sun niest room In the house. It should bo large enough to permit a window to bo lowered from the top without exposing the baby tea a dimuaht , for n * * to aunlteht th * \ \ I needs fresh air. For a healthy Infant , the temperature should never bo allowed to go above 70 degrees during the day ; at night 55 to 65 degrees. Children breathing over heated nlr grow pale and puny , with flftbhy , weak muscles and are susceptible to lung and throat troubles. In the winter , or j where an Infant Is too 111 to bo taken from J I the nursery , the room opening Into It may be thoroughly aired and then the dividing door opened. I "The above method of obtaining sufficient oxygen should be tried several times a day and Is very satisfactory. Instead of taking young babies , for a dally airing Into mud , slush and damp \ylnds , It may be wrapped warmly and placed before nn open window In the sunlight , if possible , but taking the greatest care not to place It In a direct VIOLET BROADCLOTH , TRIMMED WITH BLACK SATIN. draft or to lot the direct rays of the sun shlno Into Its eyes. " liathliiK the Bnhy. . "Even In warm weather It Is best to have a little fire in the nursery when bathing a baby. The water for this bath must never bo under 98 degrees or over 100 degrees and testing the temperature should never bo left to the hand alone. After proper | precautions to moke euro that every neces sary article Is at hand the nurse ought to . wear a large flannel apron and a soft towel I fastened at her waist. ' "Put the towel to one side and lay the 1 baby In the flannel ppron , then undress It. First wash , the face and bead , drying care fully. Then , soaping the washcloth well , bathe ( under cover of the apron ) the entire body ; rolling the baby , not lifting or hand- ling It. Use a small basin of water for this part of the bath. Now , placing the right hand under the back , with the left catch the little legs and place the child In the tub of clean water. Then rub and rinse well , turning the biby over by placing the palm of the right hand on the chest , the fingers supporting the umbilicus , and rinse the hack. "Taking it out , wrap In the towel and flannel , pat gently all over. After the pat ting , unroll and press the towel in all the | creases and folds of the body and powder. I First put on the napkin , then the band , shirt , petticoats , etc. In putting on the sltlrta dress up from the feet , not down over the head. By grasping the feet and putting on the clothes the child Is disturbed very llttls. "After the dressing the nurse's attention should turn to the eyes and nose and mouth. With a bit of soft linen or absorbent cotton wash each eye with a little , clean , warm water , being careful not to use the same pleco for both eyes. Then , placing a piece of linen around the little finger , dipping It In water , swab the mouth , going nil around tllo roof and gums. Now clean the. nose , nml be sure It Is perfectly clean. A baby shoutd not bo bathed until at least an hour after taking its food. It is best to bathe just before feeding then comes Its nap , and then its airing. There should bo only ona dally bath. Feeding Voniiir Children. "An Infant should be fed with absolute regularity , waking It at first when the time cornea. From one month to six weeks it needs food every two hours , then every two and a half hours , and at three months every three hour * . As the time Is lengthened the quantity should bo Increased. Before It has three hour * feeding it will require two feedIngs - Ings at night , usually at 10 and 3 o'clock. / 'tcr three months it should have Its last I ftodlng at 10 nnd sleep until1 6 or 7 a. m. If bottle-fed the quantity of food for the twenty-four hours should be made In the morning , placed In bottles and corked with cotton , there being as many bottles as feed ings. Then pasteurize and put In a cool place for use. Do not heat the bottle by pouring out Its contents , but by putting Into a vessel of hot water , not removing the cotton plug until the nipple In ready to go on. Should Sleep Alone. "A child should sleep by itself ; under no circumstances with an older person or another - i other child. The mattress should be firm ' [ but eoft. For young Infants a heavy army . blanket folded and laid on a spring bed la 1 quite enoUgb and Is much better than a mat- tress , as it can be thoroughly aired , dlsln- feeted , washed , etc. A healthy child up to ' 1 year should sleep about twthirds of the 1 time and until a child la 4 yearu old a dally nap should be Insisted on. II a child Is 1 1 I BEIGE CLOTH , OVER TURQUOISE OLACE SILK , GARNITURE OF BROWN MIR- RIOH VELVET , YOKE OF OHBAM TAFFETA. ' , ' , generally wakeful during the night shorten it * sleeping hour * during the day. Rocking and walking to Induce sleep Is an extremely bad habit to form. Commenca from the first day. Mace the baby in bed , BOO that the hands and feet are warm , that there ore no wrinkles in clothing or bed ding ; darken the room and leave the child alone. It rarely takes more than one or two nights to train an Infant Into good habits of sleep. nnhlen Should Cry. "Playing with children nnd excitement of any kind should be nvnlded , especially just before bedtime. Shaking rattles or any thing else continually before a child , con stant amusement of any kind Is all Very in jurious , the mind being kept In a slate of incessant activity -with no rest and paves the way to nervous prostration of the adult , 'A ' certain amount of crying Is Indispensa ble to a healthy child not a frutful , worryIng - Ing whine , but a good , hearty cry. A baby who has not a strong cry Is In a serious condition and must be made to cry , other wise the lungs collapse and death results. STYLISH 8TATIOXHIIY. Some Delightful Noveltlcn In Note I'niicr and Card * . The stationer brought out all hot fnr the .holiday trade some very effective novelties. To the women whose taste Is severely class ical ho has catered with Ivory white vellum note size and invitation sheets and as Mrs. 01 a revival of old English lettering , that style of engraving appears on all the smart stationery. Women's visiting cards are now small square pieces of rather heavy vellum and the name runs In heavy black Gothic characters. In the right and left lower cor ners the day at homo and the address are printed In small , neat Roman typo. Young ladles , who ore under the chnpcronage of a mother or aunt , use cords one size smaller than those for matrons , and they don't have any day cngtaved on the parchment squares. The large card , announcing a reception ten , has been called in. A sheet of vellum paper is used exactly like that on which parents announce orInvite to a wedding nnd the usage of the hour Is of Roman numerals. Some 'hj-per-fnshlonablo women glvo the number of Uieir street and houses In Ro man numerals on their cards ; It Is now the universal custom on every Invitation that j Is engraved , and also in giving the house nnd street number nt the lop of note paper. I This has nn odd but very decorative look , nnd the only argument against it Is that tht > practice will soon become vulgarized. With a. laudable desire to conotier that feminine weakness for writing a note any way but the way the sheets naturally turn , quires of single leaf paper have been Intro duced nnd strange to say the women like It. You can buy a box of small single note leaves of the thlnnrst banknote paper , elnco that Is particularly good taste for let ters , and you are expected to write only on one side of the sheet. At the top of every leaf , on the side on which you write , Is your address In tiny black Roman numerals and good taste now exacts that you num ber your sheets at the top as you go along. Having cast out the big reception tea cards , those women who are deep in all the smart clubs and charities have ordered parchment engagement cards. They are longer than broad and are to engraved that by only filling In date * a busy society bco can let a protege or a fellow worker in a club or on a committee know expedltlously when she can see them and for exactly how many minutes. Cards like these come In block pads and have their own envel opes. "This winter , " said a stationer who is engraver by special selection to the smart set , "weddings arc announced as much by two small cards n's the double shcetof _ parchment or a single card from the bride's parents. Th'e ' two card arrangement consists of one that has Mr. and Mrs. George Bliss ful Harmony nt home on it , with their day and house number. Tied to It , by a bit of white lute string ribbon , Is a tiny card bearing merely the bride's maiden name. These cards are ueed a great deal 4or send ing around after the couple have come home and are ready to receive friends. The hopelessly frivolous women , who perfume - fume tluir note paper and dote on colors , nro enjoying a new stationery In cloud grey. It conies in tones of grey graduated across each page from white to something near smoked pearl and most of this folds into narrow envelopes that open at the end. From Japan has been borrowed the custom of writing on one single very fang and quite narrow sheet. Sometimes a strip a yard long Is used , when an cplstlo Is lengthy , and thtn the envelope for this Is a brlstol board cylinder about which green or red wax seals having ribbons under them to ensure easy removal. The Parisian who surrounds a family be- roavcment with art sorts of pomp and osten- tatlous details has sent us white paper with Its cdgeo deeply blackened and creeped , though among the aristocracy a more dell- cate expression of grief Is given by a dead finished white paper having a white creped edge , used in event of the leas of a young unmarried relative , or a near , dear and wedded relation a black maltose cross , with a Latin quotation signifying resignation be neath I * stamped on sheets of dull white paper. "One of our most popular contrivance * this year , " reported the purveyor to our American nobility , "Is the specially designed Christmas and New Year card. There are many among the very rich who follow the English fashion of sending across the sea to friends with whom they exchange no gifts and to absent relatives cards of sea son's greetings. They prefer every one to have an Individual card with a space reft In the center In which to put autograph good wishes. The rich woman orders her Christmas card design from some famous artist , such as Gibson , Pamela Smith , Mrs. Leslie Colton , etc. , and pays generously. It Is then copied In colors , or black and white , on cards of a sultabjr size and to any num ber required. The original drawing or water color the tody usually keeps to hang In her own house. TIM1SLY HKMEIHES. They Will He Pound Unefnl to Thoc Who Confer * to Hnvlnir Corn * . To cure an ordinary case of chilblain , take a piece of lemon , sprinkle fine salt over It and rub the feet well. A sure cure for broken chilblains IB the following : Take a quarter of a pint of oil of sweet almonds , one ounce of Venice turpentine , three ounces of lanollne and one ounce of beeswax cut Into shreds ; melt all together in a white- ware pot ind then put aside to cool , stirring occasionally to prevent the preparation from becoming too hard. Spread thl * ointment on lint and keep the chilblain * covered with It at night and as much of the day an I * practicable. If you are troubled with soft corn * do not fall to try the following treatment : Soak the feet well at night In hot water , ID which has been dissolved a few crystals of per- managnate of potash. Then dry carefully , especially between the tca , and dust the skin in thsso parts freely with a mlxtur * of tanolc acid and boraclc acid. Next morning wash carefully with pure soft soap and cold water , thoroughly dry and powder with. boraclc acid. A piece of lemon or a split raisin bound I on a hard corn will very often cure it. The Drat application may produce soreness , but if treatment is persisted In a reasonable length of time a cure will likely be effected. If not , try the following preparation : Thirty grains of salicylic acid and five grain * of Indian hemp to be dissolved In halt an ounce of collodion. For tired and tender feet nothing I * better than to bathe the feet and leg * from five to eight minutes in hot water In which bos dissolved a handful of nod * alt.t Rub briskly with a coarse loncl and apply slices of lemon to the tolcs of the feet. For cracked and chapped hands and lips : Three drachms of camphor , three of whlta wax and three of spermaceti , two ounces of sweet olive oil. Put the Ingredients Into a jar. Set in a saucepan of boiling water and let it melt , stirring all the time. Pour while hot Into little jars. Another excellent cold cream Is made n * follows : One ounce of spermaceti , half an ounce of pure white wax , quarter ofa _ pint of almond oil , BIX drcpa of attar of roses nnd ono and a half ounces of glycerine. Melt all In a jar , cither In the oven or by standing it In n saucepan of boiling water ; stir till nearly cold ; put Into a pot nnd tie down. The former of these recipes Is recommended i to these persons with whose skin i glycerine docs not agree. AMEIIICA WI.\S IX I AIUS. California Ctrl vtiulleii Archlleulnrn In Uooli * < ! < llrnuv Arlii. There Is no arresting the sweeping onward progress j of women. The latest Instance of J their success In battering down the doors that have hitherto barred their advance Is a ' story which records the entrance of Miss Julia Morgan of California Into the depart ment ] of architecture , icole dea Hcaux Arts , the II I plucky American being the first woman In II I the world to Inscribe her name among the I students of that famous Institution. There ; nro many women students In tha fine arts , but up to date there have boon no women taking the course of architecture , the mathematics upon which the course Is based being very technical nnd extremely difficult. The entrance examinations for this special department are among the most rigid and searching of any held In Europe. The examination In mathematics Is oral , given before a committee , and Is of such a nature as try the nerves of even strong men. Other examinations last from 8 in the morning to 8 at night , most difficult problems being required In specifications furnished by tha examining board. The honor of working In the Ecolo del Beaux Arts and the facilities for a success ful career are so great that hundreds apply for aduiledlon each year. It Is an inviolable rule that only ten foreigners can bo ad mitted each year. In the recent difficult ex aminations Miss Morgan scored a signal success , ranking third In the list of appli cants. Of course the fact that the exam inations nro conducted entirely In French would add to their dlltlctilty for an Ameri can. can.The The fact that distinguished representatives of the French school of architecture are con templating a great work on the Pacific coast adds to the Interest of the occasion. It Is quite likely that the young California girl will follow In their footsteps and will make a name for herself in the future that shall bo widely known. Miss Julia Morgan Is tlv > daughter of Mr. and Mrs. C. B. Morgan , and she graduated from the Oakland High school in the class of ' 90 , entering the state university and \ TOQUE OF BLACK AND WHITE. KNOT OF RIBBON ON VELVET AND LEAVES EMBROIDERED IN GOLD. graduating therefrom with the class of ' 94. She chose the course of civil engineering , taking as difficult mathematics as have been attempted by any woman student of California. For the last three years Mlsi Julia Morgan has been pursuing her architectural studies in Paris , with a successful result. Miss Mor gan will probably return to America with a degree from the Ecole dcs Beaux Arts the first ever attained by a woman and on * which will give her prestige among the . leading ' architects of the United States. Tht California girl seems destined to win her way In the drama , in literature , and now in the new field open to woman , that of architecture. /fr Prill * of Ftuihlon. Among useful presents are desk stands of solid brass or silver , with cutglass bottleg. A penholder Is Included in the cot. Gun metal is gaining In favor and among the many novelties Is a lorgnette chain , which is worn cither plain or set with gems. Beetle , toad , turtle and butterfly-shaped broaches are gaining In popularity. They are generally set with imitation or precloui stones. Manicure sets In silver , gold and enam l are among the favorite presents. They ar all carved and ornamented with beautiful designs. The clinging effect so much desired In skirts Is augmented by lining them with illk warp cashmere Instead of taffeta , as tn rustle Is no longer desirable. Opera fans of fine lace or silk mounted on tortoise shell w Ivory sticks and decorated with delicate miniature , paintings are shown. The Ivory Is traced with gold. The graceful , classic , g m-set ebatelain * has come into favor again among the ac cessories of artistic evening nttlre and th smartest of these are of fine gold la flllgr * * , set with many-colored real gems. Demi-trained prlnccsso dresses arc In great vogue. Those are of white or pink India , ellk , Marie Antoinette satin , faille In. plain colors , or striped with chenille or velvet , silk-dotted Henrietta cloth or drap d'ete with velvet accessories matching th color of the tiny dot. These gowns are new , grace ful and very becoming. A stylish cloth gown of one of itho hand * some now shades of red , trimmed wl'tb ' ser. pentino bands of black braid , has a cloth waist to match , which fits very snugly nt tbo back and baa little short rounded , basques. In front It U a blouse , with wide turned-over collar of cream velvet on which la an applique of guipure lace and a nar row edge of old silver braid. There Is no dressy wardrobe complete thU season without at least one handsome gown of black silk-dotted n t , moussellne do sole , velvet , or satin-striped etanilno or plain Brussels net over a satin or silk slip. Some of tbo latest and prettiest are made with the lace or net designs outlined with very narrow baby-satin ribbon , gathered slightly , and put on as one would follow a pattern la bratdwork. There is an Increase In the wearing of fancy jewelry even on ordinary occasions and , the quainter and older the style of the costly trinket the greater It * vogue odd broaches of bright Spanish gold with heavily chased or enameled leaves and tiny scroll devices , triangle-shaped gold buckles set with top * * or amethyst stones framed In old paate handsomely cut and belt and sleeve clasp * of Indian moas-ogatei set in fine gold fili gree and diamonds. These last named orna- mvnta are called lucky atones and are sup posed to bring their owners rood fortune. The backgrounds have a mysterious t > palln tint of exquisite delicacy. The National health and pleasure resort ; Owned and controlled by U , S. Government. Elegant hotels , Eastman , Arlington , Park. Golf. For Information and booklet * apply to T. P. Godfrey , 14th and Douglas Sts. , ' - O'-