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Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922, November 08, 1903, Image 26

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn99021999/1903-11-08/ed-1/seq-26/

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What is Going On in Woman's World of Fashion
EW YORK, Nov. 6. So much la a
graceful softness now Admired In
dress that even (own for
the hardest service are, so to
sneak, f tirbelnweri. The F!nvtfn1i
tailor costume Is still In exigence, but the
French creation Is the thing that fashion
especially approves, and the majority of
her - daughter are obedient to her com
mands. The French creation, which Is something
far more Ideal than a costume, when
seen In Its beat shape, Is almost too subtle
for analysis. Details are so gently and
cunningly submerged In the whole that
for a long while the beholder merely re
ceives an Impression of completeness, as
If the wearer' fineries were a part of her
own prettlness. In fact.
This suitability to individual type. and
absence of hard lines now distinguish all
Imp gowns of any degree of excellence.
Those fashioned by private makers are as
beautifying, and In a single costume as
many a half a dosen different materials
will be seen. Say a gown Is or some sort of
wool cloth In shaggy black and white, or
Mack, white and color.. In either event
white panne velvet dotted with black may
be us?4 In small quantities upon the
bodice, which may likewise show a touch
of r'lc h color, lace and passementerie. A
costume of brown wool. In a soft, pale
hade, was combined with green kid, coral
panne, and yellow lace. The kid shaped In
wide crush belt with a triple tongue,
a narrow vest edge and sleeve straps. The
coral panne was In the form of tiny folds,
used upon the lace blouse and under
sleeves, and the result of the combination
was, something Indescribably harmonious.
These soft, leathery shades of brown
arc, with rich plum tints, among the choice
colors of the season. Bometliues a gown
In either color will be all In one tone, for
a charming fad Is to have the braids, laces
and embroideries used In the tint of the
gown material. One such scheme Is dis
played by a visiting gown In pale brown
cloth and braid lace. Thta trimming, In
deep pointed entrcdeux, la Introduced
In tbe skirt, and na forms part of the
round cape collar and puffed sleeves. The
wa beauty who wore the costume for It
wus part of a great shop display sported
with it a neck piece and mutt in whole
sable. H,r flattlsh hat was of brown vel
vet, trimmed with a white plume and an
under band of white satin gardenias.
A second smart shop gown suggested the
old Princess models In design. The skirt
was cut to lie without a wrinkle over the
Mp. the French back of the belled bodice
Increasing the close-fitted effect. An odd
feature of the get-up was a strip of block
panne, which, running from the yoke, ex
tended down the entire back ot the cta
tume. Over this were looped black chenll'e
cords with pendant ends. As the material
of the costume was champagne-colored
cloth, this contrast was superb.
All sorts of fancy buttons with swinging
ends are used upon, these handsome suits,
which, as has been Intimated, may grace
any oicnMen. With them, upon . the
dressier visiting toilettes, will sometimes
be combined bits of brocaded silk, bebe vel
vets and the thin luce nets of the hour. A
reception gown of French cloth In a faint
plstache tint dubbed at one place Robes
pierre green had such a voluminous and
flxy skirt that one waa fain to see that
something- more than the trimmings or the
60s has come down to us. The ribbon skirt
frills edged and put on with the bebe vel
vet were recognized as from this period;
but why "Robeapleire green?" 'Oh," re
turned the person who was showing off
the toilette, "don't you remember that the
wretch's complexion is always described
as green T"
The fragile touches on these visiting and
reception toilettes are well-nigh number
less. The lower portions of sleeves are
frequently of chltTon In folded tucks,
flounces of chiffon or lace will show under
HOMES
the edge of skirts, and into the sol Id est
silk will be Inserted fairy Insets of gause
and lace.
Upon cloth gowns for more practical
service odd strappings of the same will
frequently be used with stylish effect. A
trig gown of plum -colored cloth shows
these strappings on both the skirt and
Eion coat. The band of the coat Is placed
low around the shoulders, to Increase the
long effect now admired.' The" ends of it
form the vest of the Jacket which Is worn
over a blouse of white poplin and lace.
The headgear which accompanies these
street toilettes partakes of the same dressi
ness. In truth, so fixy are the majority
of the new hats that the woman to whom
a plalnlah headpiece Is a necessity finds it
difficult to be suited. Salient featurea of all
millinery are the marked lifting of crowns
and up-curving brims. Nothing rents upon
the head with the absolute flatness of re--cent
headgear, and so completely and so
quickly have the times changed that wear
ers of such- styles produce the impression
of being utterly out of date.
Brim hats In the new oval form, flaring
away from the face, are liked, by young
women of extreme tastes, whose youth and
good looks carry them oft well. But ma
turer faces require the sort of thing usually
dubbed sensible. 'Admired styles for these
types are the stiff box turbans, but the
fancier made turbans lend themselves to
many types, and In consequence are more
worn. The boat model is more seen In
such headgear than any other, a blunt,
stern and pointed front distinguishing this. -
The turban Itself Is oftener In made shape
than In trimmed form, velvet cloth of felt
being used In Intricate folds and puffings
over buckram frames. At the left Fide
drooping ornaments of some Bort are much
seen, sometimes made cock or pheasant
plumes, and sometimes a fancy fall of
chenille or Jet. Slides and. buckles of Jet
and steel ure other ornaments for those
practical hats, which accomplish a degree
of becomingness rare In ordinary street
millinery.
If you must economise on your winter
get-up, don't let your hat feel the skimp
ing, for. topped by correct millinery and
gloved and booted neatly, many a defect
In the rest of the toilette may be hidden.
Simple us they sound and look, the new
hats cannot be turned out by every home
mljlfner. Experienced lingers are needed tq
give them the proper cachet, and especially
la this so with the turbans, which In home-
A Boon to Housewives
I1INA In open stock sets Is one of
the conveniences of the present
day. The increasing prevalence
41 I of the course dinner and the
Tir r t li'A nf lifttnir ipvapuI vuHa.
ties of china for .its service Is largely
responsible for the change. A woman who
aome years ago purchased a handsome din
ner set now feels that If she used it alone
she would make a poor showing before her
guests.
Different - plates are used for every
course. The service plates are of particu
larly fine china. The plates for the meat
courke are of a simpler and more substan
tial design than those for the dessert, and
the fter-dtnner coffee Is served In cups aa
delicate as can be found. In the larger
establishments dinner Is served from the
butlwr's 'pantry. Many of the dishes used
In ai simpler menage where the roast and
Its accompaniments are placed on the table
are not required In the former case. The
needs of the different housekeepers are aa
varied aa the houses In which they live.
It .is no more expensive to have several
different kinds of china than to have all
the pieces alike. Open sets have made
this possible. Within the last five years
tfeaM have Increased in sis and number.
Now there Is practically no style of china
that cannot be bought in open stock.
A set of china which the merchant keeps
on hand and from which his customer
makes her selections Is much more com
plete than the one he would have formerly
sold her entire. lie Is prcpured to suit
all tastes and meet alt needs. He has
teapots In all sises, chocolate pots equally
varied and sugar bowls and creamers to
match. A woman with a large, small or
medium family finds it exactly the set slse
she requires. If 'her family Increases she
la able to increase her number of pieces
and to obtain the larger elites.
It is also possible to replace any pleoe
of china. The housekeeper la not, as In
the old days, heartbroken over the loss of
a dish. It can easily be duplicated.
There are open sets not only In the fine
china, but in the pottery. In this leaa
expensive ware are delightful reproductions
or old-time dark blue with quaint little
low teapots, augar bowls and creamers.
The pottery In lighter colors, tn pinks and
In plnka and greens combined, has some
thing or the art iwuveau designs. They
are pelasing, even If they have not quite
the charm of reproductions.
WAISTS SHOWINO DECORATIVE COLLARS.
made shape are sometimes anything but
pleasing. At many of the large shops 3
Is charged for making a hat and tl.60 for
trimming a set shape. Among these last
are numbers of high crowned velvet and
beaver hats npon which black ostrich
feathers are much used.
Late models in odd blouse waists run
more to elaborate collars than other trim
mings. Upon soft moire and gros grain
silks, and on other silks which have a
definitely poplin finish, batiste laces In plain
white and cream are much employed for
them. The collars are frequently placed
below the stocks, with a round neck line
and tabs running far down upon the
sleeves. At the front similar tabs may
form double stoles, but the cuff of a blouse
so decked are as often of the plain bodice
material as of the trimming. One blouse
of white Russian crash a wash material
which nearly resemble kitchen toweling In
quality boasted such a collar and cuffs of
red Russian embroidery.
Teneriffe wheels and edgings appear on
waist of the lightest silks, a well aa on a
bodice of silk mull, whose hand-run tucks
and other dainty stltcherles are not the
least -of their charms.
No longer doe woman wear somber
color and burdensome materials because
the calendar tells her that winter Is here.
Mora white cloth evening gown are sent
than cloth gown In color, and the daintiest
negligee are all In wash materials. A
for hats, so widespread Is the demand for
light weight that many are made of the most
delicate silk and mohulr braids. All tulle
and lace winter hats are likewise seen, and
the most charming or the evening wraps
are in white or delicate pastel tints. Every
thing Is now done for the glorification of
woman's charms, and they must be of an
Inferior grade, indeed, if they do not
respond to the hour's tenderness. What
being could seem plain when surrounded
by such things as wreaths and garlands,
plumes, undersleeves, spangles and frillsT
Some or the house effects designed for
bride and other lucky beings are strik
ingly artistic. A petticoat and kimon
sacque compose one bewitching little
negligee which Is seen in wash silk and lace,
and mull and lace. The petticoat are often
kilted and made to trail somewhat,
and the ribbon drawstrings form sash end
when tied. More than one of the little
jacket which accompanies these ' has the
pointed handkerchief fall at the bottom
now In vogue. Frequently the klmona I
entirely formed by a deep lace attached to
a round or pointed yoke, flowing angel
sleeves being made in the same way. With
uch jackets, which are built upon white'
or colored silk linings, a black silk skirt
will supply a costume suitable for an in
formal luncheon or tea.
A breakfast toilette for a bride Is mad
of marigold silk with a brocaded pattern
of white bud and green leave. A petti
coat and handkerchief kimona compose the
model, whose flouncing skirt Is cut short
enough to display high-heeled bronco
Uppers. Upon this wide lace I looped
in garlands, headed by other garlands of
narrow white and green ribbons. Rosette
of the same hold these at the points.
MART DEAN.
rn " 1 "
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swsafJTsswkttllalW -iasai J if fn If
!1M
t 1
Dust docs it makes the com
plexion look like a London fog, thick,
dingy, dull. Wise men and women
combat dust with
I Woodbury's
Facial Soap
- Revivifies the skin, leaves it as smooth,
I - - . m 4
dear and rosy as a baby s cheek, r or iaces.
Your dealer h-s It. aS cents cake.
C-rlsl nffr Our booklet, trial sUe package
apeci&i oner o( &otip and FacU1 Crelrn
sent for 6 eta. to par postage ; or for 10 cts. the
game and sample of Woodbury's Facial
Powder and Dental Cream. Address Dept. 17
jftw Trade
rm mark
package
THE ANDREW J ERG ENS CO.,
Sol Owners, X Cincinnati, 0.
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