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IBrrcmber, IS. 1001.
k . Una M. CARTER, PIONEER MERCHANT. CONTRACTOR AND MANU FACTURER, OF OMAHA. Dainty TXT IT T T TTX-mX7XI rorl.lun mnil'iU iCX I has announced this season that I h mflkH anenlnltv nf "flrpaa waists." It la conclusive proof that. In spite of predictions to tha contrary! the aeparate blouse continues to hold much of its old-time popularity. In deed, there are many occasions where the blouse Is almost a necessity. At the mati nee and the afternoon card party It will hold its own against all rivals. The tailor-made girl insists on the sepa rate blouse. For shopping and traveling ahe weara the simplest of shirt waists, but for more elaborate functions she Insists on dress waists. The modistes are putting forth their best efforts to meet her de mands. The separata waists are more elaborate than ever before, although their quiet ele gance la not so striking as the ruffles and furbelows which once adorned the dresa waists. More costly fabrics are used hand-painted and embroidered chiffons, brocaded silks that stand alone and cob webby films of lace. Crepe de chine ia extremely faahionable for dress waists. It lends Itself readily to the fine shlrrlngs and cordlngs which are now en regie, and haa a sheen which many women prefer to that of smooth finish silk. A dainty theater blouse ia of white crepe de chine, trimmed with square medallions ef honiton insertion. White is the most fashionable color for blouses, although an occasional pastel shade prevents monotony. This white blouse has long shoulders and somewhat of a round yoke effect produced by the honiton medallions. They are ap plied obliquely down the front to within alx inchea c?the waist line, and follow the French curve which the waist displays. The sleeves are tucked to the elbows and , have the circular flounces which are a feature of some of the most stylish waists. They are edged effectively with the medal lions. This blouse, in common with most of the dress waists, is fastened down the back. The new style of trimming straight across the bust to give the long, shoulder effect Is interfered with ttxhe waiat la closed down the front. The fastening down the hack is sometimes made with Invisible hooks and eyes, but tiny pearl or silk erochetted buttons are even more fash ionable. The sleeves of the new dress waists de serve an article all to themselves. As ons woman of fashion remarked: "The only distinctive feature of most of the new walsta are the sleeves. Otherwise they are all alike as two peas." In the main she is right The smart woman must depend on sleeve arrange ments as an outlet for her taste and originality. There are bell sleeves with tinder puffs of laoe or chiffon, sweeping angel sleeves, and bouffant sleeves wltl long and slender cuffs. This latter style to perhaps the more feasible for daytimo TUB Dress Waists the hand to prevent unwieldiness, while tho deep cuffs accentuate the curves of a pretty arm. In most cases these bouffant sleeves are tight-fitting above the elbow and, thence widen suddenly to remarkable proportions. The tight-fitting effect above the elbow is often obtained by a deep sleeve cap, which may be a continuation of the trimming across the blouse front. "I have to have an extra dressing room maid on my reception' days now," slid a fashionable woman recently. "The long shoulder effects and tight-fitting sleeve caps on the new gowns will not permit my guests to raise their arms above their heads even to rearrange a stray lock of hair." The same thing is true of the separate waists, but It in a style that is very be coming to the girl with a good, broad pair of shoulders. Pastel blue is a new and fashionable color. Bilk in that shade ia made up into an attractive waist which will redeem the severity of the tailored skirt with which It is worn. It has a shallow rounded yoke of folds of the silk joined by fagoting, and the low crush collar is made In the same fashion. Below the yoke runs a five-inch band of cord shlrrlngs, bordered by three tiny lace ruchlngs. This band ia continued over to form the sleeve cap. The sleeve baa the big puff below the elbow, falling ; J I r m-: 1: ILLUSTRATED DEE. ? it taw S! )-'' i ' h if i Jr i t" i rBim msEsxxBCr mmr seastoer PTTLA A BTEBRAaKA. BOX WUU RATES XXVI. for the Matinee Girl over deep cuffs. The cuff Is itself orna mented with a five-Inch band of the cord shlrrlngs, and with an equal width of lace ruchlngs. The effect Is extremely dainty. The deep cuffs are of the cord shlrrlngs, trimmed with medallions of Maltese luce. Tho same medallions ar,e used across the pouch of the blouse front. This has the fullness laid in fine tuclts on either side the bust below the cord shlrrlngs, while In front It is simply gathered. Lace ruchlngs are used to encircle the Ince medallions, thus increasing the handwork required by this apparently simple, but really elabo rate blouse. Lace ruchlngs are a favorite trimming for all the eilk blouses. It Is a re'.lef after the rather coarse laces which found favor during the summer months. It shows the Valenciennes and the finer mesh laces are slowly coming back into favor. Fagoting is much used and Is being put to new and attractive uses. Where once it was sufficient as a Joining for straight bands applied either vertically or horizon tally, it now forms part of elaborate spider webs and intricate serpentine designs, A pretty silk in a blue shade is com bined with fagoting and ecru lace me dallions in a grape design. The collar and ahallow square yoke are of fagoting and ailk bands. Below this come crescents of fagoting and bands, alternating with the OFFICERS' QUARTERS AX THE NEW CAVALRY POST, 13 - at-arms, ftaoship raittbow, ma- HAS WON 1118 WAY IN TUB UNITliU applied lace medallions. The yoke is con tinued to form tho sleeve cap, similarly trimmed with crescents and lace medal lions. The sleeve itself Is of the silk elab orately corded. It widens gradually into a ruff above the deep cuff. As Is the case with many of the sleeves, the lower part of the puff is trimmed with wide fagoting, garnished with the lace medallions. Tha cuff is also of the fagoting and the silk bands are ornamented with French knots worked In black silk. The same handwork adorns the collar. The blouse front la corded In the same fashion as the sleeve and has a tiimmlng of fagoting and lace medallions down the left side. Brocade silks are back in favor. Indeed, flowered patterns are obtaining even among the velvets. Borne of the patterns hark back to tho days of our grand mothers, hot have lost none of their fresh ness through the lap ing years. Waists of these flowered silks are gen erally made along simple lines which will best display the beauty of the material. It would take but little to bring about the crime of over-ornamentation, so In these doubtful cases the wise woman has her silk made up after a shirt waist pattern. A charming silk waist Is patterned with poppies In a Japanese design. No shirt waist could be of simpler construction, and (Continued on Pago Sixteen.) x FORT DES M0LNE3. 1 The big puffs are far enough from 3f ONOOMillSHIONED '..STAFF "QU ARTER3, FORT DES MOINE3.