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t jib iw mmmmmmmi F.W YORK Jan. In lummlni N up the season's fashion, in I i:oint mist In evidence la that great stridr In beauty have been iniiilo. Rare fabrics and details . Ki4jtlc combine with Brace of line i.i l.o eonstruclmn of toilette glrilshly nii.pio In effect. Furbelows merely for the saJio uf furbolowa appear only on model 01 Inferior manufacture. When conceived by good makers every point In oreraa haa its ralsun d'etre, and bo much is this un derstood that a frork with a bow too many Is much llko u wagon with five wheels. In Bliort. restraint, with eternal vigilance, is the price of beauty In drera, and to fall at a single point Is to fnll altogether. laginnlng with the well kept cranium of the day, when were feminine head more exquisitely cared for than nowT (Scrupulously cleaned, aired, sunned and exorcised for bead massage in virtually for this purpose tho most InCIflercnt suit of hair will In time present tho cared-for look necensary. Then, to thcae carefully gardened tresaca numberless false bits may be addod without sin. mat cf locra hr.lr to lift the pompadour, one or two switches, for Iho coll even scalp blta attached to the temple to mnko the hair seem as If growing lower there. Not the least charm In present day hntrdrcsslng 1 tho glotsy smoothness of correctly kept headJ. Though ilpoled 4 waved at the aide and back, a Last pass, ing of tho comb glvt the solid metal look, which Is the latest caper In head toilettes. Aa great a change ho come alKAit in millinery and stievt coelunvrt, for In neither of the? dfpartmenU la cr.ythlng designed for mrro pracllf a'dt7- The tailor gown fashioned for everydv wear depends leas upon padding and mora tipo-.t a out which will produce a fllti loots without discomfort ond the woodtn ugllnow long expressed. Tho eklrt of these hanft loose from their lining- do. In fact, all fsklrt of the hour, however diaphanous their texture-so that thin- lifting 1 a compar atively easy matter. Hut when n figure la gu file Unity Mint nd rprlshtly to vca; II, a street fcWrt which eejcnnftf the around U cr.tAAt' even more etyllxh. Th most effctlve street suits of the season fciv tumes of brown cor Jur.-.y, f ofifclullrg of a short skirt. ma1 to llne at tha Iv.ttofJt earns with an under pl-it, ard a Ion; eoat. White hodia of p-fno, l?.ca, flminal and "oft mulla ore worn wliW thffl.-, aa well as ermine, enV.la and ialnl furs, and brown lials of lore liulrert lpVff orna mented somewh.-ro with n. while flower, Velvet end ecrdiiroy nrs jra-mlnetly the smart materials vf th wlntsi, and since theafl require furs e.fl-1 hn.1wn tiata, women no attired fret a very elegant appearance. The lbellne have not had the furore that manufnelorers had hoped, Hut In their way they are beautiful, nevrlholca, and the drop In winter prices mnkea the handsomest qualities now avallnbln to all, Pome slbellne costumes, dealgnod by French makers, and also greatly reduced, show trimmings of velvet In a deeper or fnlntef tone, outlined with faney black rout ache fcrald.i and made elegant with touches of While, While., In fnot, la now the empha sising note, an hlnak nne wan. White at I rave the snowleit flays, whits food!cB, White gloves and even entire while cos tumes, many a young girl In the smart world looking like a polar bear In her snowy cloth gown and furn, aa she de adends from her carriage for tho matinee. Bo costumed, MI'S Maude Adams Is pome times seen at ft. professional mntlnoe, wear Iny a loose coat of whits wiry hoar, fasten Ins; with gilt knob billions and having her sun-blonde linlr arranged In two braids yiirn Orevk ehaplet fashion, Apropos of wiry bear, this pelt-sounding title Is only the name of ono of the several material whleh Imitate fur, A lurga wav ing of the linlry surface gives It the np petiranen of some qtinllt Icej of baby lamb, and Ilia lung and slmrt coats made of It Jiuve llis modish clumrlneii of genuine fur garments, Jtlaek panne Is likewise crinkled to simulate baby lamb, and, despite the epii"lvennus of this novelty for at the, Ifoglmilnrf of the season It was $19 a ynrd Whola ri'utumes have been made of It, Idrmlne slimline Is another product of the loom paed for evening roMs and turbans, whle.h, real fur pelerines and huge muffs pet off prodliflotuly. Those Imitation fur Stuffs, however, though new to this period, are not new to (lie cycle of fashion. Home of them were geen In the '9M under other names, and then was Introduced the odd scalloping now employed on gome of the French coats and fur seta In moloskln. A short moleskin blouse sometimes shows tbU scalloping all toi over, the neck pieces nnd muffs no fash ioned displaying as well a becoming out lining in a dnrker fur. Furs of all sorts, from anblo to rabbit skin, are used for hats, the heaviest skins often combined with filmy laces, spangled tulles and gilt birds or flowers. The.ie extraordinary end charming gold ornaments represent, with certain stiff cot ton caracUas, tho hot house side of winter millinery. Singularly subtle In effect, they seem a alien to common life na orchid.". and suggest to the Idle dreimer anything from tho splendor of courts to broken heart. In the form of camellas, hal open buCa and tiny birds, shorn of plumas? and somewhat grisly In effect, they ap pear upon hat and are made into bodice and hair knots, which are banked with tulle or velvet loop. Combined with green more then ever marked, to efTects of the) '60s. when throats were always uncovered, shoulder seams came down upon the arm and sleeves were as big as Turkish trousers. With these style, which likewise Intro duce the clumsy puff trimmings In the gown material seen long ago, there are also 1830 and Second Empire effects, these achieving costume In richly hued silks 1 S f K V ft. . ,Wa, I NE. 1 T .r t l V. rt "V largely used, is tho plainly where women stand In 1904. Mag nificence la not pre-eminently the thing, but mngnlflcence exists, and In the marvel lou Imitation lace and paste gems of the moment those women who cannot arpire to the real thing are consoled. Then, la the robe clnlre, as the French so prett'ly dub light frocks, there Is opportunity for much dressiness without Kreat expense. Hut dreF woman must nowadays to be recognized as a human being, and the woman who neglects tho little points which go to make up a perfect whole may be likened to ono of tho vlrgina who let her lamp go out. MAIIY DEAN. Prills of Fashion. White molr card cases are made up with gold, set with Jewels. Red nnd white calfskin Is used for the cornels to desk tablets, for the stomp and pen boxes, and for the covering to the blotter. Signet hat pins are useful for the Indi vidual who likes to lie lalx-led. They are made with heads not unlike the slKnet rings, of gold, round or oval, but less heavy than the rings as a rule. A wrist bag which Is pretty for the wo man who wears white furs or affects er mine ns trimming, Is a bag of this fur without tho black tips. The frame and chain arc of silver, and the bug, a Una) one. Is a tx-auty. Really well-done plates among the Inex pensive ones are the game plates with a tingle animal on each. These have a high glaze. There are six different designs to be found, the chanticleer, peacock, swan, pheasant, etc. In the new American pottery there are delightful things .in casseroles. These are made of the reddish brown earthern ware, glazed inside and rough out. They come In different shapes, some with noses for pouring and some without; some high and some low. and Bomo with and some with out handles. Pretty and simple little rings are those with the stones all around, narrow, and formed by two narrow bunds of gold, be tween which the stones are set with no metal beneath, that the beauty of the stones may appear. Diamonds, emeralds, rubies, sapphires, all kinds of stones are used in these rings. Tho Japanese, who are always to the fore, have added something to the woman' bead collection. These are long and beau tiful strings of amber beads, set at inter vals with a bead of green Jade, and In Home instances with a translucent red bead. They are fastened at the back with a little twisted ornament of cord. Linen etamlne, a loosely woven material of linen, in the linen color or white most- material that wlU be OFERA CleOAK OT TEIXOW EMBROIDERED 8IT-K; WHITE LYNX COLLAR AND SLEEVB BORDERS. leave, gold acorns are also seen, thesa sometimes woven into chapleta for evening wear or wreathing a hat. A gold acorn ehaplet and a white tulle gown, cut ex traordinarily low without Immodesty, was recently worn with striking effect at the opera. Another night the same dark beauty wore a cloak so regal as almost to take the breath away. Fashioned of the palest corn-oolored silk, this long, magnificent garment was covered with raised silk em t r"ldorloa In the same color In love knot and Illy design All opera costuming that la, that of the boxes partake of this magnificence, and when Americans consider that Americans are not born to noble trappings It is aston ishing how many coronets are worn. Other opera Jewelry la of corresponding state' 1 neaa, the great women of fashion wearing diamond dog collars and looped necklace of diamond and pearla that would truly grace courts. Iletween effective day dress and dreea designed chiefly to create a magnificent evening effect there are toilette sweeter than all others put together. These are the dainty gowns for elegant tndoor use, made of airy textile and tn models almost vtrginaily simple. Charactertatlo of the advancing soiaoa wlLa them i a return. and velvets which are Ideally charming. Evening gown of net are more seen than entire lace costumes, the skirts of such often running to girlish ruchlngs above lace frills. The girdling employed with such toilettes, which have been ordered In great numbers for Florida use, are dally Increas ing in width. Itias silk or velvet scarfs in the same shade, or In a contrasting tint, are wound several time around the waist to a height often of eight inches. The baby bodices are gathered full, there is alwaya a drooping collar of some sort and the sleeves a.e as elaborate as the style of the gown will permit. Some of the gowns ordered for the south, whose prototypes are frequently sen about swagger hotel corridors, seem to the un initiated almost patchy in the way that different atuffs axe put together. A gown of gray chiffon velvet has Insets of white point d'esprtt, which is, In turn, ruched with plain black net. And this charmer ties at the throat with saffron colored buby velvet Lastly, deep yet soft colors tint many splendid st:ks and velvets with which su perb Vandyke lacea especially harmonize, these often forming collar whose lower line may reach below the elbows. Coming to the gist of things, her la pretty and serviceable for shirtwaists and shirtwaist suits this coming season. It is delightfully cool, stylish in effect, and make up, for the women who like the Russian crosa-atitch embroidery, excel lently well, as the loosely woven thrc;u1a make it easily worked. Fronts of skirts and waists, collars and cuffs, and shoulder pieces are done in thla embroidery. A Hn afbvnrty U a Joy foreern DLT. IT.LIX GOUIAUITS ORIENTAL C1EA4. OK JUG1CAL BLAUTlf ITU BuurrM Tut, risrpUa, jmcfclca. Hut Faldie juu sm Bkin ll Mm, an trvy klamlah WiLr. Vc4 trnTmrn eetaUiaa. It B -a- ' V au m 1 J WTN an ! mm au-nl taau U be sure m m proomrlj ButdaL Aanpl ne MuUrUI at dial. Via um Dr. L BaniM mmim 1 m Jlady mt Uka bast Im k saUtci): harmful mi all thm akim mil m i. ... t tnst-mf auuy nua aaaa SB Iks l'lUri frlalaa and aangw. 1'EBD. T. HOPKI1S, Prwp'at iOr--s ax, K Xa