Omaha daily bee., August 28, 1904, Image 36

About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922

Image provided by: University of Nebraska-Lincoln Libraries, Lincoln, NE

                
find eat MairaliK Alwan IWfnwIii,
a i w -jr ate '. lt Msjrjrr a vss ty l. J w J9
Nl " " " ' . . ' f. . W. . "
I note, sustained throughout, atone
1 nmrliilni Ihnt auch mfidpni
mourning drosses ere for mourn
ing. And If white vest la
elded, a eolor"d fciraln or a unit- . nmJ
at the edge of sleeves and frocks, the
drcas at or.iT twiri!ii a thing anybody
vusht weir. I nil) finished veiling with 1830
piifs of taffeta. Is much uned for these ciw
tumr, models elaborately shirred appear
ing in chiffon cloth and similar delicate
textiles.
Home black street gowns lately turned
lit show the elbow length bleeve which
the Rummer has made so fashionable.
Kasques, more or less pronounced, appear
Upon a number of the bodice., which for
ordinary u? continue to te in easy blouse
form. Knglish crepe figure prominently
as trimming, and it in once more in vogue
for widow's Telia, thnaigh there lire many
persons who still prefer the lighter sewing
Ilk sorts.
CoitpcI costuires for widows, especially
those who are still young, are marked
by more plainness that oilier black gmr
metita may show. The cloth, Merge, cash
mere or henrletta costumes are trimmed
spurwly but solidly villi crepe. Many of
the boiir.eln still display the Marie Stuart
fM'Inl nnd wtiite cap. end after the first
arts weeks the veil is as usual attached to
the b-irfc of Ihrm. Kor elderly women the
veil Is more often of sewing silk or dull
fli:l;hrd ehlffon, and fiicIi women nre also
privileged to wear the white lawn collars
nnd cuffs which ate thought to render the.
m:re youthful a little conspicuous. How
ever, these neat and becoming details arsj
much worn.
Mourning hats for the ret of the world
follow all the lines of regulation head
geur, und at the back of some a he ivy crops
veil may often be attached. This, how
ever. In not ns long as the widow's veil,
which fulls in a great, narrow, folded
box pleat below the knres. The short
mourning veil of net with crepo edqe con
tinues to be worn by tho':e who object to
the longer sorts. They are very stylish
In effect, nnd seem somehow correct ac
companiments to the crepe rosettes and
rolled ribbon roses which dink ninny of
the hats, font gowns of severe simplicity
are advanced l.y some of the makers for
first widowhood.
A costume with a knee length coat Is of
dull cloth and English crepe. The long
Skirt is entirely plain, and the edge of
the coat Is finished with several rows of
Stitching. The crepe is used for the pos
tilion pocket flaps, the difp cuffs and
plastion. Ily the same people a charming?
mourning dress for n child of 7 Is shown.
This l.'i of white Chinese silk with a blnck
mull Juliot sash and sleeve frills. The hat
to accompany the costume is also of black
mull, made In lingerie form.
Exoept for parents or grandpaprents. It
Is no longer the custom to put children la
dotp black. Pure, white Is considered all
that is necessary for them, or at most
white and black, and many an evening
gown for a young girl la a billow of snowy
chiffon. Iieep hems and plain tucks give
the necessary simplicity to sjch frocks,
which may have wide girdles and bodice
folds of dull finished rlbtKui.
It acenia Incongruous to And crepe and
Coquettish, medlework uiwm the rnmo gown,
yet Komu mourning pongees effect the nov
elty with success, l'ongee, according to au
thoritative statement, will ligure for some
months as a amrt mounting material. Ths
aorta must used are very heavy and dull
and knotted In finish, and betwoi n the em
broidered frills, which often embellish such
kinds, the crepe may snt..r in narrow or
wide bands. A urep mournh.g gown of this
Jieavy pongee has the gathered skirt encir
cled In this way. A stole plastron of the
crepo edged with the embroidered frilling
trims the blouse bodice. The fjrm of tha
Jabot ut thu throat Is much employed upon
mourning costumes, and it may be made,
as here, of the embroidered gown material,
or le In uny soft mourning texture.
Kretich veiling shapca a third stylish
gown, whose skirt is cut in Vnndykrs over
a bund of Kngllah crepe. lull jet buttons
are a dressy finish to this d-orMlve trim
ming and the blouse waist has a crrpe fichu
and crepe epaulettes.
For ordinary autumn and winter servloa
many mourning coat-gowns In sorge and
cloth wfll be trimmed alone with rows of
Stitching or bands of the dream material.
The newest buttons employed for such suits
are In wooden mold form covered with the
gown texture. lull Jet buttons tn many'
novel shape and Jet bolt buckles and alidea,
normoualy deep, figure extensively among
the aew autumn trimrainga for black. With
them are also encountered many novelties
In mourning choius, tha very newest of
which are made of black bone In round or
oval beads.
Tho bent mourning garments invariably
bow a certain flatness. House gowns are
very modest In line, though goud mourning
effects aeem to call for some degree of fall
upon the floor. Charming Indoor toilettes
In plain and spotted chajlies and delaines
have belts, sleeve rolls and slocks in dull
finished ribbons Ekirts of these are full
and stitched flat at hips, with sometimes
the bottom only tucked or maybe with rib-
mourning attire, but It Is one which the
authorities have no notion of neglecting. A
manual on mourning lingerie lately issued
forbids Hamburg embroideries or figured
hwes of ary sort. Such needlework as ap
pears must be done by hand upon the gar
ment itself, and it it thought preferable in
black. Only the net varieties of lace can
be used, and plain footing Is the chief one
mentioned.
Mourning underwear for thin costumes
must, of course, be aJl black, and Into tha
ArmoruiATE ccstumes Ton widow and uauguticr.
ton bands between the tucks. The popular
sleeve for such frocks is elbow length, for
the heavy wrljit length sleeve in to a great
degree replaced by these more youthful and
generally becoming styles.
Kven the mourning wraps, especially
when in crepo or mantle form, are cut to
leave the elbows free. Tho tendency of all
Is to lengthen the shoulders to a mederute
degree, and some of the Frarf-slinied shoul
der wraps have the fullners surrounding
the figure In a low 1S3 line. With the full
skirts worn, and the high-crowned hats
which are to follow, such rlfou'der rapes
cannot but prove picturesque upon the
right wearer. Already, IrdrcJ, many col
ored costumes of quaint trr.dcnc'.es have
more thn lock of fancy drss than everyday
garments.
Half mourning, as it was once known. Is
no longer seen. The fashionable elegante
is either In mourning or out of It. The
first tinta considered suitable for a widow
are silver grays, mauve and violets; for
the old, luJf mourning combination, black
and white, lias lost Its former significance,
though It may constitute deep biafk for
children.
Tho question of underwear Is rarely
touched upou by those seekiug correct
China silks nnd mulls used are lnsertea
black footings, beu dings and drawstrings,
MARY DEAN.
$
freai Fashion's Mote Book.
lavish use of lace is a feature of tho fall
millinery modes.
Green, mulberry and red are colors fa
vored for underskirts.
Smart buttons, silver In many cases, give
a finish to linen coats.
Ornaments of leather and metal com
bined will adorn tailored huts for full wear.
In all sorts of trimming the Japanese
tendency It becoming more proiiounord,
leather Is the chief decorative motif this
season lor traveling and motor costumes.
Dresden buttons in larga and medium
sises are conajscuous in recent Importa
tions. It is predicted that pinking will take the
place of the strapping tt.at has held popu
lar fancy so long.
Ruehtngs, pipings, gathers and frills mul
tiply and overflow in the present scheme
of dress ornamentation.
Embroidered bands will ndom many of
the fail and winter hats, with cheuiiio as
the predominating material.
Tt:e rapidly it.c-e:'iiii; circumference of
the jskirt seems to Tt.irt more nnd more to
the iuevilableaes of ciinaiine.
In handbags a tioveity is a miniature;
valise. The mountings are of gilt and the
bundle of Um reguiatioa vaibic type.
1'l'tHty kilt stills for the small boy are In
ok-blood pink, iu blue and lu gnus, made
P with white, many of them prettffy
trimmed.
Soft tlannels, moussellnes. delaines, voiles
and other thin fabrics mke charming
louniring gowns. A Moral buckle and shad !
ribbons, with plenty of Valenciennes lace,
constitute the trimming.
Handsome silk rubber coats are mndo
with a satin finish, straps down over tho
shoulders and across the opening In front.
The arms are under big caielike pieces at
the sides, which nre carried in with a puff
like effect at Uie lower edge.
A novelty in triplicate mirrors In plsc
of being made to hang on the wall have
tho mirrors mounted on a stand. One of
these recently shown at un nrt exhibition
was of copper, with decoration of blu
lapis-lazuli. The support were exquisitely
pierced and carved In seaweed designs and
the panels on the back of the mirrors
showed figures of mermaids in repousse
work.
According to Richard Guenther, Vnited
States consul general at Frankfort, Ger
many, a ruby weighing five pounds was
sold in that city for tOUO not long ago.
The ruby was genuine, he explains, but was
artificially made. That statement might
sound paradoxical to a Jeweler or to an
ordinary mortal, but to a chemist a ruby
is genuine whether It conies out of a nat
ural furnace of earth after a century of
preparation or out of an electric furnace
after a few hours of "cooking," an Ions
as it contains the natural component parts.
Gossip About Women.
Mrs. Daniel McOall of Oat Island I-'glit-bouse,
on the Mississippi coast, turned tha
light for two nights by hand because the
mechanism was out of order, and her hus
band was lying dead.
The richest spinster in New York City Is
Mary G. Pinkney. She is said to have more
money than Hetty Green, and certainly
more than Helen Gould. The reason he"
name has never been connected with matri
monial gossip is that she Is 87 years old.
Mrs. Roosevelt, wife of the president, has
spent much time at charitable work since
she reached her summer home, fine is one
of the most actlvt. members of St. Hilda's
guild of the Christ KpiscopaJ church, and
has made n number of dainty plects of ap
parel for littlo sufferers.
Miss May Van Alon, the New York heir
ess, is a godsend to her milliner, for iha
never wears the same hat twie'e this being
one of tier eccentricities for which s-he has
become famous. Her had-coverinp is pi
ways as large as fashion's law will allow.
Miss Van Aien'r hats are characterised by
outlandish touches. She has one fine Char
lotte Corday hat in Valenciennes lace. The
lace bands overlap one another, nnd a
woman estimated there were eight yards
of finest lace wrapped about the wire
frame. Miss Van Alen has one of these
"tebe" hats with a curtain effect in front
that droops almost to her nose. Another
that has caused a stir Is a rose pink lullo
bonnet with black strings. She wears it
with a pale pink gown.
A leader of Now York society said re
cently: "It Is almost impossible to give a
large dinner any more. There are toi
many feuds and quarrels and women who
hate each other are the cause of too much
embarrassment to a hostess. Of course,
they try to phiss their enmity for the time,
but the result is worse than open warfare.
At one dinner a cabinet officer sat between
two great women of fashion. He talked to
one and then to the other, and tried to
draw them into h threc-ceirnercd conversa
tion. Tho women obstinately refused to ex
change a word, and finally the man and
he was supposed to lie a diplomat intro
duced them. A chill followed. They had
known each other for twenty years, had
been friends for ten and loathed each other
tho other ten."
Explanation
' Why Is It," said the Kuropean po'e.ntate,
"that this war with a smnll Asiatic na
tion Is so disastrously prolonged?"
"It's due to ignorance and inefficiency, "
replied the general.
"Whose Ignorance and inefficiency?"
"Their. According to all the rules of
warfare, our superior resources ou?ht tt
cause them to lay down their arms and
take to Might. Hut they don't know
enough to bo overawed." Washington
Star.
A SK11 OP BEAUTY I A JOY FORfVEg.
Dr.. t. PKi.ix cnritArcfl orikntal
CtlKAld.OKMAtUCAI, BKAUTlriEB,
?2 . Jt!inoTrTii.riBiilr.rcklM
L. rielM-, Hub. and Bkta
ns, and ttetf UuiKk
-Is W fV F2'Myri,aim
Pr 'l .4'ao hlrinlaiia wt.
tmate U lo ba nua
it la uranerlT mad a.
Aooept no counter
frit of tlmlta
nama. lir. L. A.
Barra aal'l to a
. U.dy or Um faaut.
Ilea (a patlrnOi
1-A oa ladiaa
f will lua tiiaro, I
r commas
'GsurauCt Crana
a Cha leaat harmful of all tha Utn ef7niona."
Tt sal by alt mxjnt ani raacy 4la4a iJaaiaM
In tho l. 3., Canalaa. and i.tniT".
fR0. T. HOHUNS, Pup f. 37 ent Jooet St, N. I,
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