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find eat MairaliK Alwan IWfnwIii, a i w -jr ate '. lt Msjrjrr a vss ty l. J w J9 Nl " " " ' . . ' f. . W. . " I note, sustained throughout, atone 1 nmrliilni Ihnt auch mfidpni mourning drosses ere for mourn ing. And If white vest la elded, a eolor"d fciraln or a unit- . nmJ at the edge of sleeves and frocks, the drcas at or.iT twiri!ii a thing anybody vusht weir. I nil) finished veiling with 1830 piifs of taffeta. Is much uned for these ciw tumr, models elaborately shirred appear ing in chiffon cloth and similar delicate textiles. Home black street gowns lately turned lit show the elbow length bleeve which the Rummer has made so fashionable. Kasques, more or less pronounced, appear Upon a number of the bodice., which for ordinary u? continue to te in easy blouse form. Knglish crepe figure prominently as trimming, and it in once more in vogue for widow's Telia, thnaigh there lire many persons who still prefer the lighter sewing Ilk sorts. CoitpcI costuires for widows, especially those who are still young, are marked by more plainness that oilier black gmr metita may show. The cloth, Merge, cash mere or henrletta costumes are trimmed spurwly but solidly villi crepe. Many of the boiir.eln still display the Marie Stuart fM'Inl nnd wtiite cap. end after the first arts weeks the veil is as usual attached to the b-irfc of Ihrm. Kor elderly women the veil Is more often of sewing silk or dull fli:l;hrd ehlffon, and fiicIi women nre also privileged to wear the white lawn collars nnd cuffs which ate thought to render the. m:re youthful a little conspicuous. How ever, these neat and becoming details arsj much worn. Mourning hats for the ret of the world follow all the lines of regulation head geur, und at the back of some a he ivy crops veil may often be attached. This, how ever. In not ns long as the widow's veil, which fulls in a great, narrow, folded box pleat below the knres. The short mourning veil of net with crepo edqe con tinues to be worn by tho':e who object to the longer sorts. They are very stylish In effect, nnd seem somehow correct ac companiments to the crepe rosettes and rolled ribbon roses which dink ninny of the hats, font gowns of severe simplicity are advanced l.y some of the makers for first widowhood. A costume with a knee length coat Is of dull cloth and English crepe. The long Skirt is entirely plain, and the edge of the coat Is finished with several rows of Stitching. The crepe is used for the pos tilion pocket flaps, the difp cuffs and plastion. Ily the same people a charming? mourning dress for n child of 7 Is shown. This l.'i of white Chinese silk with a blnck mull Juliot sash and sleeve frills. The hat to accompany the costume is also of black mull, made In lingerie form. Exoept for parents or grandpaprents. It Is no longer the custom to put children la dotp black. Pure, white Is considered all that is necessary for them, or at most white and black, and many an evening gown for a young girl la a billow of snowy chiffon. Iieep hems and plain tucks give the necessary simplicity to sjch frocks, which may have wide girdles and bodice folds of dull finished rlbtKui. It acenia Incongruous to And crepe and Coquettish, medlework uiwm the rnmo gown, yet Komu mourning pongees effect the nov elty with success, l'ongee, according to au thoritative statement, will ligure for some months as a amrt mounting material. Ths aorta must used are very heavy and dull and knotted In finish, and betwoi n the em broidered frills, which often embellish such kinds, the crepe may snt..r in narrow or wide bands. A urep mournh.g gown of this Jieavy pongee has the gathered skirt encir cled In this way. A stole plastron of the crepo edged with the embroidered frilling trims the blouse bodice. The fjrm of tha Jabot ut thu throat Is much employed upon mourning costumes, and it may be made, as here, of the embroidered gown material, or le In uny soft mourning texture. Kretich veiling shapca a third stylish gown, whose skirt is cut in Vnndykrs over a bund of Kngllah crepe. lull jet buttons are a dressy finish to this d-orMlve trim ming and the blouse waist has a crrpe fichu and crepe epaulettes. For ordinary autumn and winter servloa many mourning coat-gowns In sorge and cloth wfll be trimmed alone with rows of Stitching or bands of the dream material. The newest buttons employed for such suits are In wooden mold form covered with the gown texture. lull Jet buttons tn many' novel shape and Jet bolt buckles and alidea, normoualy deep, figure extensively among the aew autumn trimrainga for black. With them are also encountered many novelties In mourning choius, tha very newest of which are made of black bone In round or oval beads. Tho bent mourning garments invariably bow a certain flatness. House gowns are very modest In line, though goud mourning effects aeem to call for some degree of fall upon the floor. Charming Indoor toilettes In plain and spotted chajlies and delaines have belts, sleeve rolls and slocks in dull finished ribbons Ekirts of these are full and stitched flat at hips, with sometimes the bottom only tucked or maybe with rib- mourning attire, but It Is one which the authorities have no notion of neglecting. A manual on mourning lingerie lately issued forbids Hamburg embroideries or figured hwes of ary sort. Such needlework as ap pears must be done by hand upon the gar ment itself, and it it thought preferable in black. Only the net varieties of lace can be used, and plain footing Is the chief one mentioned. Mourning underwear for thin costumes must, of course, be aJl black, and Into tha ArmoruiATE ccstumes Ton widow and uauguticr. ton bands between the tucks. The popular sleeve for such frocks is elbow length, for the heavy wrljit length sleeve in to a great degree replaced by these more youthful and generally becoming styles. Kven the mourning wraps, especially when in crepo or mantle form, are cut to leave the elbows free. Tho tendency of all Is to lengthen the shoulders to a mederute degree, and some of the Frarf-slinied shoul der wraps have the fullners surrounding the figure In a low 1S3 line. With the full skirts worn, and the high-crowned hats which are to follow, such rlfou'der rapes cannot but prove picturesque upon the right wearer. Already, IrdrcJ, many col ored costumes of quaint trr.dcnc'.es have more thn lock of fancy drss than everyday garments. Half mourning, as it was once known. Is no longer seen. The fashionable elegante is either In mourning or out of It. The first tinta considered suitable for a widow are silver grays, mauve and violets; for the old, luJf mourning combination, black and white, lias lost Its former significance, though It may constitute deep biafk for children. Tho question of underwear Is rarely touched upou by those seekiug correct China silks nnd mulls used are lnsertea black footings, beu dings and drawstrings, MARY DEAN. $ freai Fashion's Mote Book. lavish use of lace is a feature of tho fall millinery modes. Green, mulberry and red are colors fa vored for underskirts. Smart buttons, silver In many cases, give a finish to linen coats. Ornaments of leather and metal com bined will adorn tailored huts for full wear. In all sorts of trimming the Japanese tendency It becoming more proiiounord, leather Is the chief decorative motif this season lor traveling and motor costumes. Dresden buttons in larga and medium sises are conajscuous in recent Importa tions. It is predicted that pinking will take the place of the strapping tt.at has held popu lar fancy so long. Ruehtngs, pipings, gathers and frills mul tiply and overflow in the present scheme of dress ornamentation. Embroidered bands will ndom many of the fail and winter hats, with cheuiiio as the predominating material. Tt:e rapidly it.c-e:'iiii; circumference of the jskirt seems to Tt.irt more nnd more to the iuevilableaes of ciinaiine. In handbags a tioveity is a miniature; valise. The mountings are of gilt and the bundle of Um reguiatioa vaibic type. 1'l'tHty kilt stills for the small boy are In ok-blood pink, iu blue and lu gnus, made P with white, many of them prettffy trimmed. Soft tlannels, moussellnes. delaines, voiles and other thin fabrics mke charming louniring gowns. A Moral buckle and shad ! ribbons, with plenty of Valenciennes lace, constitute the trimming. Handsome silk rubber coats are mndo with a satin finish, straps down over tho shoulders and across the opening In front. The arms are under big caielike pieces at the sides, which nre carried in with a puff like effect at Uie lower edge. A novelty in triplicate mirrors In plsc of being made to hang on the wall have tho mirrors mounted on a stand. One of these recently shown at un nrt exhibition was of copper, with decoration of blu lapis-lazuli. The support were exquisitely pierced and carved In seaweed designs and the panels on the back of the mirrors showed figures of mermaids in repousse work. According to Richard Guenther, Vnited States consul general at Frankfort, Ger many, a ruby weighing five pounds was sold in that city for tOUO not long ago. The ruby was genuine, he explains, but was artificially made. That statement might sound paradoxical to a Jeweler or to an ordinary mortal, but to a chemist a ruby is genuine whether It conies out of a nat ural furnace of earth after a century of preparation or out of an electric furnace after a few hours of "cooking," an Ions as it contains the natural component parts. Gossip About Women. Mrs. Daniel McOall of Oat Island I-'glit-bouse, on the Mississippi coast, turned tha light for two nights by hand because the mechanism was out of order, and her hus band was lying dead. The richest spinster in New York City Is Mary G. Pinkney. She is said to have more money than Hetty Green, and certainly more than Helen Gould. The reason he" name has never been connected with matri monial gossip is that she Is 87 years old. Mrs. Roosevelt, wife of the president, has spent much time at charitable work since she reached her summer home, fine is one of the most actlvt. members of St. Hilda's guild of the Christ KpiscopaJ church, and has made n number of dainty plects of ap parel for littlo sufferers. Miss May Van Alon, the New York heir ess, is a godsend to her milliner, for iha never wears the same hat twie'e this being one of tier eccentricities for which s-he has become famous. Her had-coverinp is pi ways as large as fashion's law will allow. Miss Van Aien'r hats are characterised by outlandish touches. She has one fine Char lotte Corday hat in Valenciennes lace. The lace bands overlap one another, nnd a woman estimated there were eight yards of finest lace wrapped about the wire frame. Miss Van Alen has one of these "tebe" hats with a curtain effect in front that droops almost to her nose. Another that has caused a stir Is a rose pink lullo bonnet with black strings. She wears it with a pale pink gown. A leader of Now York society said re cently: "It Is almost impossible to give a large dinner any more. There are toi many feuds and quarrels and women who hate each other are the cause of too much embarrassment to a hostess. Of course, they try to phiss their enmity for the time, but the result is worse than open warfare. At one dinner a cabinet officer sat between two great women of fashion. He talked to one and then to the other, and tried to draw them into h threc-ceirnercd conversa tion. Tho women obstinately refused to ex change a word, and finally the man and he was supposed to lie a diplomat intro duced them. A chill followed. They had known each other for twenty years, had been friends for ten and loathed each other tho other ten." Explanation ' Why Is It," said the Kuropean po'e.ntate, "that this war with a smnll Asiatic na tion Is so disastrously prolonged?" "It's due to ignorance and inefficiency, " replied the general. "Whose Ignorance and inefficiency?" "Their. According to all the rules of warfare, our superior resources ou?ht tt cause them to lay down their arms and take to Might. Hut they don't know enough to bo overawed." Washington Star. A SK11 OP BEAUTY I A JOY FORfVEg. Dr.. t. PKi.ix cnritArcfl orikntal CtlKAld.OKMAtUCAI, BKAUTlriEB, ?2 . Jt!inoTrTii.riBiilr.rcklM L. rielM-, Hub. and Bkta ns, and ttetf UuiKk -Is W fV F2'Myri,aim Pr 'l .4'ao hlrinlaiia wt. tmate U lo ba nua it la uranerlT mad a. Aooept no counter frit of tlmlta nama. lir. L. A. Barra aal'l to a . U.dy or Um faaut. Ilea (a patlrnOi 1-A oa ladiaa f will lua tiiaro, I r commas 'GsurauCt Crana a Cha leaat harmful of all tha Utn ef7niona." Tt sal by alt mxjnt ani raacy 4la4a iJaaiaM In tho l. 3., Canalaa. and i.tniT". fR0. T. HOHUNS, Pup f. 37 ent Jooet St, N. I, .-5a tCSJT? s s'-S YSy-' Pi