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fa r I fit f: if mm a A Give ycuT bail as ina2h. air and sunshine as possiLle, We-encls cf lair art split Irak ii repidjyto Temove the Irckexi part. R9. SfENDER CLAT, formerly Miss Pauline J 1 Alitor, daughter of the expatriated American. iVa I William Waldorf Astor, has astonished smart lv I society of London by the new color of her hair. It has been changed from a dark, unsatisfac tory hue to & remarkable new brown a topa brown, the same color as the brilliant Brazilian Jewel of which the young woman has a whole apronful. The daughter of the former American multimillionaire, whose marriage to Capt. Spender Clay, the dashing army man, was reported to have been so displeasing to her wealthy father that he was tempted to remain on this side of the At lantic during the wedding festivities, recently appeared at a dinner with her hair a new color. The dinner guests gasped and then wondered. While Mrs. Clay was reckoned one of the nicest looking young women of London, she has never been classed among the noted beauties, and her hair was not a particularly striking feature. " Goodness," ejaculated a woman guest, " Isn't Mrs. Clay's hair beautiful? But what color Is It?" Her companion was Mrs. Cornwallis West, but the latter remained discreetly silent The woman on the other side, however, answered the question. " It Is the new topas brown," she said. And a topas brown It was. It exactly matched the won derful Jewels from Brazil. It was brilliant, and almost shone In the artificial light of the room. The color was rich, too, disproving the Idea that the hair had been tinted or dyed. The enhancing of Mrs. Clay's beauty had been brought about by a treatment by an expert hairdresser. He had used no harmful drugs, but the hair had been urged to bloom a the gardener urges the rose to flourish, and lot a marvel ous effect had been attained. Topaz Colored Hair the Rage. Mrs. Spender Clay let her friends Into the secret, and just now the topas colored hair Is essentially the smart thing in London. Women marvel that suoh results have been at tained by the mere exercise of science and without bleach ing, dyeing, or tinting. The question of tinting and dyeing the hair has long been a vexing one with the fair sex. " You do not advise me to tint my hair," exclaimed a woman horrified beyond measure at a suggestion of the hair dresser. I In her mind's eye she pictured the awful tawny hair, the hair of the chemical blonde, the hair which looks like a lion's mane without any of the glossy properties which are found In the lion's hair. " It is bad taste. .1 would not change the color of my hair for worlds," exclaimed she. But there are other ways of changing the hair, other ways of tinting it, other ways of making It glossy, other ways of making it more attractive than by bleaching it. First, It must be understood that all natural hair Is not pretty, and to suppose It Is leads one Into a mistake. All women are not endowed with nice hair. There are women whose own hair Is not becoming. It la dull; It has grown gray; it is a mouse color; It is far from being either pretty or becoming. Hair to be at Its best should shine. " Tour hair must bloom," said a London hairdresser, a man who prepares women for court presentation. "It has never shined, but It should be made to shine." To the same customer a Parisian hairdresser aaid: " Tour hair must wave. Straight hair may be pretty, but as a matter of fact It seldom is." mossy waving hair should be the lot of every woman, bu how Is It to be made glossy and waving? To this It may be replied that all hair Is different and that each variety of hair requires Its own treatment. The treatment which benefits one kind of hair will spoil another. Hair that Is dry Is almost always filled with dandruff. This lies next to the scalp and Is unpleasant to see. It does not really Injure the scalp. But It sifts down and Is not nice or well groomed. Tet how can It be helped where the hair Is dry? Here Is a cure and, white using It, the hair Is benefited greatly. What Is more, Its color Is Improved, and often the tone of the hair is made better, so that It has more life and springiness. "Shampoo the hair In a good egg shampoo. Then rinse it a thousand times "to quote a London hairdresser. " And, when It Is all rinsed, dry It wi11. " Now comes the final touch. Part off the hair In the middle, making a long parting right from the middle of the forehead down to the nape of the neck. Take a little almond oil, moisten the finger tips with It, shake them to take off the superfluous drop and gently ' spat ' the parting. Go over it lightly but thoroughly until the scalp shines a little. Treatment Will Bring Tone. " Part off the hair again and go over the next parting In the same manner. Do not use more than a suspicion of oil, not enough to drip from the finger tips, and do not, on any account, get a particle upon the hair. This Is the best known treatment for the scalp. " Dry hair will never shine, but after the scalp Is treat-d It will begin to be oily and It will gradually take on a little gloss. Repeat and It will be positively lustrous. " Women whose hair Is grow ing gray and who do not want gray hair can get around the matter by having the hair dyed. This will restore Its color. Now comes the treat ment of the scalp to keep It from coming In gray again, for the hair must be persuaded to come In dark, or In Its natural color, once more. "The treatment Is almost identical with the treatment for dry hair. It is dry hair which grows gray first, and to keep It from getting gray the castor oil treatment Is recom mended. " I tried evesy known remedy on this woman's head. Washing it made It drier, made It fly about more. Oiling It made It terrible. I did not know what to do. I could dye it, but It would still be thin and rough. " One day I thought of a remedy I had seen tried In Ber lin. I called for a handful of loose cornmeal, and, parting oft her hair, I scattered It through It. Then I brushed 't lightly but well to get out all the cornmeal. The result was magical. After a week's application It became silvery gray hair, the prettiest hair I ever saw. " Where hair is extremely dry it should be brushed often alth cornmeal. If the hair has no oil In it there Is nothing so foolish as to wash It, for there Is little to be washed out except the dust And this can be taken out with the dry meal. I have often tried this successfully upon dry hair. It seems to restore the natural oil and to make the hair lighter in color. " The secret of washing dark oily hair Ilea In the rinsing. This should be done with hot water. A great many waters should be used and the wafer should he as hot as feels agree able to the scalp. But It must not scald, by any means. "In all the rinsing waters except the last there should be a pinch of borax, for borax cuts the grease. The last water should be entirely clear and hot. " Few people realise how dirty the hair gets. Often that . . ;.' r' y" , ,-.i.vV.k li, n f t -- rr 'fr, WW l V " -V" ' fc i i y, t V'--' ' .v. .. '. . I II r' -K - i .!'''f .u R'-' Sg3 1 r V 4& k .;'4!'!- i StimJale he roots of &e kaip which seems to be iliirk hnlr woiild be much lighter If It were clean. In this way one can change the tone of one s hair, If one may so call the process. Ways to Bleach the Hair. "Women who !int to blench the hilr a little can do so In harmless ways. But it should be done carefully and little at a time. The trouble Is thnt women never like to do things t-y halves. The woman whose hnlr Is so dark as to be almost black will beseech you to mnke her Into a silvery blonde, while th. woman whose hair Is rbnny will ask you to turn It ted. She wants too sharp a contrast. " A little harmless coloring onn be done without difficulty. I hud a ensc. thnt of a woman who was a blonde, but her hair was a pale, dirty, uncertain dral). At the risk of n great deal of adverse criticism I will till you thnt I had hrr head shnm pooed. After the washlnit I applied n little peroxide of hydrogen. I diluted It half strength, so that It gnve nothing more than a gloss. It did not really bleach the hair at all, but It made it shine. Then 1 waved It by the Parisian method. "I do not advise changing the hair, but I have taken C cents' worth of henna leaves und have steeped them In a gallon of water. After the shampoo i have taken the hnlr and dipped It In this solution. This will slightly redden the hair that Is medium brown, putting red lights Into It. "But by far the best way and the most satisfactory wsy tc alter the color of the hnlr Is by treatment. Treat your hair and you can make It beautiful Is a Rood precept for any woman to learn. Hair Is the most abused of all one's endow ments. Yet It is mourned the most after It is gone. The woman who at 40 sees her hair thin, and at 50 finds It has departed, has no person to thank but herself. She has neg lected one of her most precious possessions." Aster opgtiSbr Cite Seepwifli WirToos- Cee9S09S3S933tS3SS3SSS9 MothieivIEef'iixgoAlAdoptioii of (SHilclren'iriHe (Santupport STRANGE feature of the "orphanage" at- I tached to the new Jewish Home for the Friend fJSk I less In Chicago is that many of the little ones Jg Jjt I instead, of being motherless are friendless, be cause they are Buffering from an embarrass ment of riches In the way of real mothers and " would be " foster mothers. That the love of children, which was In the hearts of the daughters of Israel in the days of Sarah, still beats strong enough so that almost every modern Jewish woman longs to take the child of another if she has not one of her own Is shown by the many little ones here that are coveted by eager foster mothers. There is, however, here, as in all orphanages, a barrier In the way In the mother love, which is Intense to the point of what Is many times regarded as supreme selfishness by those In charge of the little ones. Mothers Are Too Selfish. " We have more homes open to us than we can supply with children," says the matron who Is In charge of the large number of children who are soon to be moved from the old home near Lincoln park. " For almost every un fortunate Jewish baby there waits a foster mother who Is both eager and anxious to take home with her a little child. But we can't let the children go on account of the selfish love of the real mothers. We could give away dosens, and nearly all Into rich or at least good homes. If it were not for this. Sometimes also the point of law which makes It Impos sible to give away a child without the parents' consent operates where the parents are not to blame. A case which we bave now in litigation is one In which the child la the sufferer to an unusual extent. It Is that of little Solomon I'etoeky, or Solly as everybody calls him. It la nearly a year now since Solly has oeen the idol and the coveted pos session of a well to do couple named Schmidt. Solly's parents are In the insane asylum, although they were driven there by poverty and trouble rather than by a taint in the blood which would be liable to descend to their offspring. Just as long as they are there, unless we can get a special order of the court, Solly will have to stay here insteud of getting Into the home of which he would be considered the Joy and light Every Sunday the Schmidts come to see Solly, and they think everything of him, and will not give him up for any other little one. He calls himself ' Solly Schmidt,' which, perhaps, he will be some time, as be Is fortunate In having persons who have set their hearts upon him enough to wait to see if It can't be made to come out right." "I should think they did set a lot of store by Solly," sighed a " little mother " of 10, Rebekah by name, who helped in the institution. "They come and take him out to ride and they bring him things, and they are Just like the fathers and mothers that rich children have." J Must Rely on Court's Aid. Rebekah Is a motherly little maid who has had chances to be adopted which bave passed by, as Solly's will do If the Four IT J Cabes wno nave r f ? V- A'-viJ JUL - r , t ,r?jjr l -X x Dolly wAo wovJdfe court doesn't step In and help him. She stays at the home now and pays her way by what she can do to help with the other children. She came In In response to a message sent . by the matron and was leading two queer little figures that she called " Eether and Henrietta." Esther is and Henrietta Is 4, on which account Esther took hold of Henrietta's other hand and marshaled her In, even though she herself was the smaller of the two. "Esther Is a pretty little thing with light hair and long lashes and blue eyes and a gentle dignity that Is unmistakable even at fl. Henrietta, far from pretty, Is a strange and elf like little creature. "The father Is an actor," said the matron, "and the mother died over a year ago, and for months the children were shut up In the top stoiy of the Revere house. Some times If their futher came home they had dinner, and oftener still they didn't get anything until he came late at night When they first came to the home and sat down to the bread and milk supper thatwas given to the rest of the babies, Esther objected to the fare politely and distinctly. We al ways had beer and cheese with out bread. We don't like milk,' she said." Not so long ago there was a young Jewish woman who fell In love with Esther's blue eyes and wanted her so badly that she was willing to take Henrietta, too, If the father would consent, so that they would not be separated. But the father had promised the mother " not to give away the children "and, although for long time he has not sent any money, yet he will not be untrue to the promise txuetid by "mother love," even though the result is that then 7tvo (faicjchfes atoption. little ones who have seen a bit of stage life are the loneliest .l lonely waifs. When Sunday comes they are the only or.es who have never yet had any company, and it Is Esther's one spoken wish that "some day Henrietta and me will have a visitor." Clings to Her Children. "There are three more children here," suld the matron, " whose mother bus gone out to Colorado for consumption. She Is without money and there is no hope, but when we wrote her ubout an offer muds by a rich Jewish family to take two of the children and find a place for the other she wrote back quickly: For God's sake don't give away my children. I will soon be well enough to work and take care V7LLVJ7Af HMAYffr7'7 ZWf WfO tPJT srrwurDS'D w m& tows' wwle thm? of hein.' She will never be any better, but, poor thing, they are all she has." " Perhaps one of the must unusual cases we have," said Mrs. Stirling, who has taken charge of the new home. "Is (hat of a former music hall dinger who came here from Eng land, who Is 111 in a west shle hospital, am) who had her four children' sent to us. They are all atlraetlv-e and have a talent fur music, which they get directly from hi r, and we would have no trouble in phielng them In rich homes. Mill it Is her one wIhIi that so long uh who lives I hey may he kept at tho home, so thnt when they are brought to hcc her they may still be 'her children.' Although she cannot get well, she In mi fond of them that there Is no one who has the heurt to refuse to do as dim wishes. Thcro are, however, many mothers of absolute uiiwoiiIiIimss whose claim on their chil dren Is Just as emphatic, when there Is any chance of letting some one else have them. In spite of the worthless lives they lead they are hungry to see them sometimes, und, although the children would l a thousand times belter eft without them, it is many times Impossible 4u give them over Into care which we know would bo of tlie best."