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Newspaper Page Text
J.ni?QMAIIASUDAYllKE: .TAXUajIY 2, 1910.
3 mmn mmtm mom due 1VT! A TT TTTTCD OSTOMIES V MA TOP ESTAOTANT HEATE ISAM 1111! At 1 O'DONNELL ta. f A.V l:Vv OF Mr' IfTOi -it1 .it ' j5'iz&?ozni;j2x. jt&z or Whits A. ' L I V X t HE iiliort frock has a wider ranee than usual this season. For the woman who ffoes In the street car to the theater, res taurant, dinner, and other afTalrs and her name Is legion the possibility of a little frock elaborate enough to produce a favorable Impression In the theater and at the restaurant table and vet short enough for comfortable walking has Its appeal. But, after all. these delicate frocks are rarely short enough to be left to their own devices, and If one has to hold up a skirt one may as well hold up a long one aa a short one. And most potent argument nine women out of ten know that long skirts are more be coming to them than short skirts. There Is something nJout the swirl and flow of a long petticoat that lends poise and self-assurance, and the woman who Is not slender (gains many Inches In apparent height when she changes her short walking skirt for the long one. There has, however, beem a general shortening of the long skirt, the narrow train lias lost caste, and the rounder lines seem to prevail. The exceeding limpness of the modish skirt around the feet and the vogue of draperies drawn In closely about the ankles have proved distinctly puzallng problems In the matter of locomo tion. While generally one has to shuffle warily along in these new skirts one may with practice achieve a gllle, but there Is no denying that the present fashionable type of skirt, draped or tied 1ii somewhere between the knee and the floor and quite limp and full below, Is a trying thing In which to walk gracefully; As there seems to he much confusion In regard to a skirt's length this season the well drt-sseri women should bear Jn mind these facts. The strict decree of fashion Is this: Skirts hve or six Indies from the ground for strictly street wear, skirts that sweep over the floor In a round trhln for the afternoon, and skirts five Inches from the floor for dancing. That Is the decree. Every one- Joes not have to ubtde by It. but numbers of women will accept It In part. If not In whole. They may not have every evening gown made ahort or every afternoon frock made long, but they will assuredly have one of each kind to show that they know what Is being done in the World of fashion. It Is quite true that the early autumn gowns for evening wear were long, and tills gave rise to the im pression that the short frock of l'arls would not be acceptable, but winter styles show the short skirt everywhere. These frocks five or six Inches off the floor are not restricted to young girls. Women of fifty wear them with as much placidity as did their ancestors. This Is not a graefful evening fashion. There is nothing In It to recommend It to any one over ID yeurs old, but fashion designers have not been oversealoua in fashioning graceful designs for the last two or three years. Still the present modes have this advantage when dinner or luncheon is served women can trull clouds of glory after them In lines of silk, lace, or chiffon, while lor dancing they are now able to take very movement to unhampered enjoyment it might be said that any costume which Is draped 9 so i t von1 ' . ..3 . r . .i' . ji r- a . .1 .V "If j - Ve? r?? . 'rs' ?llev'v ?,'; ... - 7' 5 -' ' i J i ! j V 1 if s 4' iV 4 I 4i 1 In fashion. So common Is this belief that a, few carfs have been attached to an old frock, and it Is rejuvenated Into a thing of this year. This sounds easy, and It really Is If one has skill. These draperies, however, should be arranged by an artist, and every woman is not one. It Is usually the case that these touches must ho sought for among tho high priced drcsHmukers. It Is they who are able to give the entrancing twirl to the yards of flimsy fabrics. Women will cheerfully tell you how they made a last year's satin slip into tin artistic dinner gown by swirling over It a few sashes and loose ends. The fash ion of using one color over another, or several tones of color In one gown, makes this kind of alteration simpler than if nie had to keep to a distinct color scheme. It might be sweeplngly said that gowns are draped from shoulder to hem. And one might add in detail that It Is of small matter whether r not the drapery goes the same way. In some gowns It wraps the figure ending at the knees; in others it drops from right to left on the bodice, and from left to right on the skirt. It may be said with pathetic truth tliut the fashion for drapery will have a tendency to make the average woman look sloppy. And It certainly gives splendid opportunities to look disheveled. The new empire chiffon shoulder scarf this season has given the old and well established feather and tulle ruche and boa a close race for popular favnr. They are particularly well liked for theater wear. There is no question that they are graceful, gra cious things to wear, anj as an accessory of dress they are among the prettiest and most effective. Hut there are well defined ways of wearing them. Th scarf must be absolutely In keeping with the gown. It must fall well off of the shoulders In soft folds, and bo draped carelessly over the arm as Illustrated on the page. Tho bl-vk; scarfs deserve a word by themselves. Many women choose theso In preference to anything else that Is offered them. They find that with the majority or gowns the touch of black is what Is needed to give character to a gown, and that nothing will do this so mail as the thin waving line of chiffon that Is so Illusive and at the same time so pronounoeJ. These new scarfs are quite a bit wider than those first brought out. They have also Increased in length. The r r ! i 5 Va2k OJT IZj&ZST'ZZY T shorter ones lack grace, and do not sdd to the height of the figure, as do the long, clinging ones. , In furs one of the newest scarf effects Is the simple natural animal, fox or lynx, suspended from the shoul der. The skin is uncut and allowed to remain In Its natural shape. This brings the head to one side and the tall at the other, there being no effort to arrange the scarf in any other than the simple barbarlo fashion of suspending the unfinished animal skin from the shoul der The newest muffs to go with these scarfs are made In such a style as to simulate exactly a live dog carried under the arm. The muffs have four pendent paws, bushy tall, and a lifelike head and neck, around which there Is a sterling sliver or solid gold trimmed leather collar, the collar having a name plate and a tiny bell. Another note of the winter season Is the popularity of the artificial oprsage bouquet for afternoon and even ing wear. Orchids, lilies of the valley,, gardenias, and vlolets are worn In profusion, combined with ferns which iave been cuTeJ by a process which leaves the living natural leaf In a way to perpetuate 'Its green, delicate and lovely. These artificial muff and corsage bouquet, while more expensive In the beginning, are really more economical and satisfactory In the end than the natural flowers. Artificial flower sots are also popular, the flowers on the hat, muff, and coat matching each other. Tiles' bouquets are particularly satisfactory for evening an. theater wear, as one does not run the risk of ruining one's gown as she would do from the heavy damp bouquet of natural blossoms. Quite the newest fancy In these artificial blossoms Is a piece of white lilac with a purple orchid center, We are facing an epidemic of velvet, and the little costume of black velvet promises to be the furore. On the advance models shown the skirts are sufficiently full for comfort and are round and short. Half long the coats are usually half fitted. A little silk braid is used in the trimming of the collar, revere, and cuffs, but the more expensive models are simply trimmed with Just a touch of heavy silk cord. Bomber and severe aa this costume Is, It Is nevertheless exceed ingly ohlo when are added to it the correct accessories of gloves, shoes, blouse, hat, and neck dressing. The fronts of the coats of these costumes are filled with ctreetolre stocks and plaited Jabots of white mull merely hemmed or trimmed with narrow cluny lare. Between the edges of the gloves and the coatsleeves there peeps out an Inch frill of white. The hat worn Is usually large, all In black velvet, or a huge turban made bf soft velvet folds, with not a touch of' color on It. On the black velvet marten trimmed mult Is pinned a muff bouquet of artificial flowers. Willi such a cos tume one is well equippej for the ordinary day time functions of city life. it 1 !