Omaha daily bee., March 13, 1910, WOMEN, Image 33

About Omaha daily bee. (Omaha [Neb.]) 187?-1922

Image provided by: University of Nebraska-Lincoln Libraries, Lincoln, NE

                
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VOL. XXXIX NO. 3D
OMAHA, SUNDAY MOKNIXO, MARCH 13, 1910.
SINGLE COPY FIVE -CUNTS.
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HE dvnt of the peaiant typ of drei
ana th return of th. hnrt nu r.n.iv.
A I th length and hpllnes of the corH
I below the waiit th mo.t imDerat!v
thine In acquiring Ue avelt figure ot
1110. The Russian blouse without pepl :m
or ' with a short ' one and the Bervtan
Jacket worn as an outside garment with
lingerie walsta,and plaited skirts reveal the lines of
.the figure more decidedly then does the long coat.
The apron draperies also accentuate the size and con
tour of the hips, v
It Is an Interesting thins to note the methods of the
skilled cvrsfetler In molding the feminine flr.ure to 'i.t
the changes of form demanded by fashion. The first
great revolution was the straight front corset. T.va
was not designed for any special style of dress, but
It was recognised that It greatly Improved all figures.
It did not take long for It to win a victory over the
old curved garment, which forced the abdomen Into
undue prominence and produced puffy, cushtonllke htpe.
Corsetlars have at last recognised the fact that It Is
Impossible to maintain an erect and graceful carriage
nlees the abdomen Is supported In a measure by the
Corset, and this cannot be done until there la room at
uiu waist lino to admit-some of the flesii.; This la it .
rpolnt that every woman, who wishes to acquire the
svelt figure of 1S10 should remember, now that the
hip has a little more curve, ln'order to keep that curve
where It belongs and not allow It to creep around to
the' front.
'
To meet the demand of the summer fashions of 1910
corset manufacturers have provided low bust corsets
in various forms. It Is Impossible to adopt the new
peasant line in dress with a high bust corset, as the
effect would be awkward and ungainly, exactly oppo
site to the appearance of simple ease which la affected
In such a costume.
The true proportions must be maintained from hip
to knee. There must be no rounding out of the tlilsli
below the stays, making- a line where the skirt of the
corset begins. The Increased curve In the hip line Is a
help toward achieving this result, as It disposes of
some of the flesh, which Is ordinarily pushed down to
the skirt of the corset. The skirt portion must be
fitted as closely as Is compatible with eaee.in sitting.
The announcement that the natural waistline has re
turned must not be misunderstood. One must take into
consideration her own figure. A short woman may
have an Inordinately long- waist, and a tall woman a
short waist; the correct proportions are not always
maintained In regard to figure. The only remedies for
these defects lie In selecting; the correct corset.
A corset must not merely fit and be comfortable, It
must also be graceful and becoming. There are a
number of corsets shown designed for the expros
purpose of giving the proper wslst effect for the new
costumes. There Is the long skirted corset with' the
girdle top. This promises to be a favorite design
this summer. As the name Implies it is a corset with a
girdle top and an extreme length below the waist.
This garment la adapted to the xtremaly slender fig n
with practically no bust.
'
Another design la of medium height above the waist
line, with deep bust gores that droop to the waistband.
These gores are wide and the corset la of ample
breadth at the dlsphragm. This model la particularly
well aulted to the long walsted woman.
Another model Is the low bust corset which Is
short above the waist in front, low under the arm
and of medium height In the back. The fullness In the
bust la varied In the different models to suit the full
or the alender figure. With this corast a email pad of
aome kind la usually worn, for the corset being cut
below the bust Una asakea broken Una unless filled
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In wun something. A long satin bow with padded
loops Is a satisfactory arrangement. The pad should
be adjusted by the fitter and care should be taken to
have it the right fllse and shape. Over thla la worn a
brassiere.
Among- the new developments In corset making
thla season la a special method of attaching the hose
supporters.' Instead of this being; done in the usual
way, by attaching them .to the apron of the -corset, a
double pull Is given by adjusting a broad band in lh
following manner,: One end of the rubber webbla
Is attached to the corset Just where the stesl cla.o
terminate. The other end of the elastio is turned In
and caught to the edge of the apron of the skirt at a
point directly In Una with the fastenings at the other
end. On this loop of elastic there Is a sliding buckle,
which holds the loop end of the adjustment. When
fastened to the hoae supporter not only Is the apron
of the corset held down firmly, but the other end pull
ing directly from th corset steel gives an eepeclal flat
adjustment. Thla la a simple and a practical Idea and
the wonder la that It has not b.tn thought of before.
The present aim of the corsetler Is to bone the
corset lightly. Rigidity Is strictly avoided at every
possible place, consequently many of the new models
show th most eccentrically placed boning-. Another
new featur la that the apron of the aklrt and the
bands holding the nose supporters are frilled at the
edge with Valenciennes lac. Another point In finish
and trimming in the covering of the front clasp by
additional pieces of the material. Sometimes this fea
ture is worked up in quite an ornamental way as, for
example, in one model the broad frill of lace which
serves as a trimming at the top Is brought into a
flatly folded Jabot, covering the entire overlapping
pieces which conceal the steel front.
These new corsets are not cheap. On the contrary
they are expensive luxuries, but they are even more
Important than the dress Itself because upon their
shape and fit depend the effect of the costume worn
over them. Corsets require as careful attention to fit
t.ng and designing as dresses in order to overcome in
cvldual faults.
In putting on these new corsets it Is Important first
of all to have the corset opened' to the full extent of
the laces. Lares from eight to twelve yards should
be used according to the length of the corset. Loops
should be made at the waist and at the hips. When
the corset is full spread place It about the figure,
clasping with ease, pulling- down slightly, but adjust
ing it to the figure without lifting the flesh of the
abdomen, first fasten th front eupporters crossing
tbem Instead of fastening- straight up and down, next
those on the side and back. Bee that the corset Is well
down on the figure, pulling It down In the back even
more than they used to do In front, slip th hand inside
and pull up first one hip and then the other. This keios
the stays In place and prevent them riding- up or
giving that old fashioned slant to th walstlln.
The loops at the waistline should now be drawn u,
but not tied. This Is done to define the waistline of
the corset. Now with the waist loops still untied
begin, to draw the lace from the,' lower edge of the
corset. Keep, an absolutely even opening between the
edges of the two edg bones. ; If these bonea meet It
indicates that the corset la too large at the hips and It
should have darts run Into it-to bring- It to the proper
else. Now draw the laces from the tpp of the corset
to the waist. Be careful here to preserve the same
. distance In the open space. The stays rAust be on a
direct line from top to bottom, otherwise the steel will
twist or there will be a bulging- line. Then tie the
loops at the waistline and tuck the knots Inside the
lacings so that there will be no bulging lumps that
will show through a thin gown.
In taking off the corsets, the reverse order is ob
served, the loops are untied, the lacings drawn out to
widen the apace, the garters unclasped and the fronts
unfastened.
A new corset Is not nearly at Its best the first time
It is worn; there Is a certain nice agreement between
the corset and figure after it has been worn a couple
of times. , There seems to be a mistaken Idea that a
good corset must necessarily be expensive. It Is the
chesper corset of unknown make that Is really ex
travagant, for it quickly loses its shape and it Is then
past all it usefulness. Every standard corset manu
facturer make corsets In several grades, and after a
certain point Is reached In the price you do not pay
for a better made corset, but simply for th adorn
ments which it carries.
Naturally there are greater strength and wearing:
qualities In the standard makes, and, what Is more im
portant, the fabrics and boning- will bear cleaning.
The corsets of this season give the back a different
curve. Instead of making the figure elope In at the
' waist line with a sway back effect, the spine assumes
almost, an outward curve, and the abdomen is held in
a normal position Instead of being, drawn Inward and
upward until It loses Itself in other parts of the an
atomy. This position give the body Its' proper bal
ance and takes away the unbending cuirassed effect,
which at once suggests the stiff corset. c
In buying a corset the thing to consider Is that
brocade materials and the elaborate trimmings are
much less Important than cut and suitability to figure.
i Then there are other polnta to consider. The first
step Is' to sit as well as stand when trying on the
corsets, In order to see It the corset steel is too long or
tho boning 6ver the hip too obtruslv. After Its effect
on the hips Is seen notice the effect of th oorset from
the waist line up. Does It support without lifting th
bust? This Is correct If sufficiently high In th back '
to support the flesh at this point-and yet not so high
as to cause a ridge.
If the eteel In front Is too long the corset will round,
giving a line which Is most objectionable. If the steel
at the back are too long they will strike th chair
when sitting. If the cornet Is too full over th hip
or the bust. a seam must be taken in, or if too small
a gore Inserted.
Simplicity of form and natural youthful . lines are ,
the dominant things in this season's figure. Th pass
lug of the empire and the dlrectoire and the moyen
age fashions In favor of thla more novel and graceful
one will be generally welcomed by womankind.
The waist line has again come to lta normal posi
tion and there Is positively no use, or excuse, for a
shortwalsted figure; the waist line must be estab
lished at the lowest point designated by nature her
self. This is not a radical change, but a rigid enforce
ment of a rule that has been allowed to relax a little
during the reign of the empire, dlrectoire, and th
moyen age gowns. The princess gown is still in favor
but the figure Is easy and youthful.
With most of the corset of this season a brassiere
of some sort Is not an incidental but a necessity; no :
figure Is properly fitted without one. The bust having
no support from the corset, must depend upon the
brassiere- both for shapellntas and for comfort. It con
ceals the top of th corset, straightens the back, do
ing away with that awful middle aged fold In th back,
and glvea a certain trlmness that no other garment
can Impart. ,
New forms of brassieres are of almple construct! 1 1. i
Among the most decorative of thee novelties are the
brassieres made of heavy lace, as cluny and Ir!o.
Brassiere of knitted tricot continue to claim atten
tion and a considerable number of corset models are
completed with matching braasleres.
Th corset reach ao near to the knee that the hose
supporter are extremely short. They are there, nev
ertheless. In great numbers. They look, indeed, Ilk a
fringe around th bottom of th garment.