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THE OMAHA SUNDAY I J EE: MAY 1. 11)10.
i 1 p I ARTS. Special Correspondence. During this last week there has been a grand re adjusting of fashions, something that al ways happens Immediately after the show ing of the models both in the spring and fall, and before the season has fully set lu. There are Invariably certain of these that do not fail to catch the public fancy, and so, of course, they are made up vnd worn and be come an established fact almost as soon as they have been seen. There are others, however, that for some reason or other meet with only lukewarm success, ami these are carefully gone over, their defects remedied, and their good points further worked up until frequently they are among the best of the season's offerings. Lastly there are Bome that are total failures and are blacklisted In every direction, and these disappear quick ly Into some mysterious region, no one seems to know where, and are seen no more, at least not under their original guise. It would surprise the uninitiated to know how many of these there are, for It Is a secret the couturleres guard well, but as they keep equally well the secret of their disappearance, It does not so much matter. i One fact has so far been proven and that is that there is to be a mad erase for checks, particularly those of black and white, for they are being turned out by the score, and in all sorts of materials and many styles. Those for the street, such as seme and twill, are strictly tailored, with sklrU that are plain and coats that are cut on the mofct severe lines. Occasionally a touch of color will appear In a waist coat or the facing of a collar, but as a rule the only concession that is made to these costumes is in the but tons, which may be, and frequently are, of gold, silver, or some fancy effect, and the larger and mor stunning the better. Without doubt they make smart suits for morning wear and for traveling, automoblling, and the like, nothing could be better, for they are almost im pervious to dust and dirt and somehow always look neat and trim. French women wear with these costumes blouses made of a new sort of cotton crPpe, which Is little crinkled and shows a weave more like a crepe de chine. They are simply made, sometimes with a cluster of broad plaits down the front, with feather stitching between and the fastening in the back, or again buttoning over from left to right with large pearl buttons, trimmed In scarlet or blue. If the low collar Is worn, the best models of these ' are made in smull tabs of tucked batiste edged with narrow lace, nttlng closely about the neck and falling over the blouse, and If the high one is preferred then , they are as stiff and high as possible, finished with a 'frilled Jabot or smart little tie of some bright colored satin. The hats that generally accompany these costumes are small and close, quite covering the hair all but a oft wave that comes over the ears. There are two or three good shapes, but the favorite seems to be a folded affair made precisely ltko the turban of an Indian prince, iAhe nlaterlal bolnS mohair or coarse open braid, which Is pliable enough to bo bent in any manner. A great deal of color appears In these little hats and In some wonderful combinations, red and Mack, brilliant blue and dark green, but they are trimmed as sparsely as possible and their cachet all depends upon their shape and the way in which they are worn. A button hole bouquet of some flower the color of the hat, and boots with checked tops to match the gown complete an ensemble that makes the Parisian woman a gratifying sight. It is not alone for morning and traveling costumes that checks are to be worn, fur a great many soft ma terials are being shown for afternoon frocks which later will be seen at the seashore or other resorts. Bilks and chiffons both are liked and both make wearable dresses for half dressy occasions. Bechoff-Davis, who this year is excelling In gowns that are simple and youthful, has several models that are smart. One shows a skirt of silk cashmere, all black, with a bodice of chiffon, at tached to the skirt with heavy cordtngs. On the upper part there were large revers of checked silk, which fell over others of chiffon. These revers were soft, being unllned. and In the back they were cut square like deep tabs. The sleeves, kimono shaped, were of chiffon, with broad turned-back cuffs of the silk. The real style of the gown was In the coat, which was of silk, of course the checked, made like a Russian blouse, but entirely veiled with chiffon and having deep cuffs and a small shaped piece about the neck of plain black silk. The fastening was at the left, and the belt was of patent leather with white stitching. Another gown of the same variety was of chiffon, the oversklrt being finely plaited and falling over an underskirt of liberty satin. This costume was bright ened with a bit of vivid embroidery which began In k point at the bust and extended up to the neck, which Wi round and collaiiess. Here it was met with a double frill gf cream lace, and there were frilled cuffs edging the rather wide sleeves. This fashion of a plain skirt with a checked oversklrt. or coat. Is a distinct change from that of several seasons ago, when It was Just reversed, the coat Invariably being black and the skirt of the plaid. Besides checks there are all sorts of dotted and spotted stuffs being used, the only exception being In frocks for the street, which are mostly plain. Even the tussores are being brought out now In bordered designs, sometimes a plain band of contrasting color on which appears spots of the natural shade, while on others there are big and little dots put on irregu larly, sometimes to tbe depth of eighteen or mora J - "n v A K i ; 7 it k I ft iv S. It ti"H' l ( it te;tr' J it f& I t ! - t.v, - :t ; ; ' 2 : fV' ! - , J.W'- -- - - : a- ' Oft t ' '' " 1 f ovi! $ ,4 i I . j lrl 'H "I If f . r, tM I 'V - rw 'I 1 1 -I - ( l i if ' ' - l& ' i X I " , A,v "' jiffy mmr'' ftlllT"1""'" vj -. - V fen "fW i ' v.-.-, ! IS F A i. - , i , b " ' V 1 1 ! J -7' )"..:! i XiiiS" Eve xxiTig Crow-no f Bhxck Liberty ratlin with a Pxuncess Overdrew Cfojete and Steel Btads.The Upper i X ) ' 1 1 S M f " , t r,i 'hi I ' - vrl ? 4hs I' . i , x I. 'A ' - I . , , A i- ' i" i I- y!i i .. . ; -. I' f J , . . I r if iv 5 1 d p 1 ; . insir -:. y. r . . 'in V-.'-. fctw li"' fr6pI7aV Zelv of ' Schrt Uteri -i-v ilz. ) i OX1 1 i r C CVt.' ZC U. tVlttl Q)OlA-tCLCl-L? -Br?i.-i cL. model tftnM DmMi., te' OpWTa o' Chpeen Crau-zefTaAe Over a. L,inirx? of Cha.11pe3.ble llxbeYty Sxtin Fevtha. of Crveen Hizples IVirh Edge of Gold ,a.nci Tncri.3 cation f CroLri L,3.ce xttl PjJtznt hodcl rnon lafcrricrb. inches. TlicMO borders seldom appear directly at tbe bottom of the skirts; rutlicr they form oversklrts or are Inserted like plain bunds into the skirt. This Is a popular model for making many seml-sklrts, the band, no matter how broad it is, holding in the upper part of the dress. Tho bodices for entire gowns are ns simple as they ran be made, so much ho that one often wonders why it is necessary that some world famous dressmaker should bo expected to construct them. They ire trimmed ulmost not at all, a tiny bit of lace, occa sionally a touch of embroidery, a little puffing cr cording, and tbe thing: Is done ': Hi The sleeves all follow tho same general lines, ex cept for 'tailored suits, and that Is the kimono, the only difference being that some are large and basgy, while others are quito small and moderately clone. As the season advances, however, they are growing shorter and sh . ter. and one frequently sees gowns now Intended for di.ytlme use with sleeves that by no menus reach the elbow. This U even true lu the iae of ordinary blouses, the sleeves of which never mote tiiun Just cover the elbow, and the cuff or frill. If there Is one, is usually turned bark onto the material Skirts are narrower and narrower, and when full ness Is let Into them It U always held a by some sort of a band or trimming. These are frequently bordering the gown, giving the moat curious appear ance to any but the slightest of figures, anj another skirt which looks equally odd when first seen la tl.e one that is held In by pufts and cords, sometimes sev eral tiers of them arranged at r