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TIT E - OMAHA SUNDAY BEE: JUNE
5. 1910. (M fflHMTS F(D)M THE ITOME MffiggMAKEM. M NE of the biggest problems of vacation time Is the problem of clothes. This sea son It is particularly difficult to solve. There Is such a multitude of lovely materi als and such endless ways of making them that It Is bewildering to try and decide on what Is practical and pretty. This season. too, there Is so much offered that la bad, so much that Is good, that It requires study to know what to select and what to discard. There Is ome comfort In this thought, however, that It Is not probable that any one person can avoid making one mis take at leiaat; either in selecting the wrong material or the wrong style. Success in selecting a vacation outfit lies in the power of knowing how to adapt one's clothing to the locality In which the vacation la to be spent. The wardrobe re quired at a, fashionable resort must necessarily be larger than one required at a more quiet place. Every vacation wardrobe requires at least one tailored suit. The newest suits all show the short coat. The thirty-two inch length is still good, but much smarter la the twenty-atx length. Some of the newest models ara even shorter, tout twenty-six Inches Is a good com promise. A treat many of the suits have the regula tion, man's coat, showing the notched collar and small revers, though the long rolling revers and the shawl collars are quit as smart. In all the models the shoul der seam la short, the plain sleeve head is used and the coat I are form fitting. Before selecting any of these coats a woman must study her face, her figure, and more than all the fact of how she wears her clothes. If she Is strictly tailor made she is not Interested in the suit that must be adorned with furbelows. If she wears straight lines ahe knows how to pass by frills. If she looks best in subdued colors pagan ones do not Interest her. She goes through the task of selecting the costume with confidence and serenity. The argument that Is sometimes brought against this marked Individuality of dress is that it tends to make one unfashionable and conspicuous. It is more con spicuous to be distinctly out of a fashion than to be distinctly In It. Most women recognize this fact, and all who do not wish to draw attention to themselves observe H. But the women who have failed to keep in the fashion because of the strong obstinacy concerning what they want to wear is a small minority compared with the mass of women who choose whatever happens to be In fashion. These are the women who will wear short skirts when they should wear long ones. If long skirts are In fashion the women who cannot manage them will wear them according to rule. They have not . learned the beauty of compromise In fashion and as the result they spend a lot of money and yet never look ' well dressed. ; Another point of the new coat Is the disposition to make the front longer than. the back, which is the dl- . rect change from what we 'have had, and possibly not quite so pretty. There is no doubt that the coat which la longer in back than in front materially assists in lengthening that sweeping line from neck to heel which very one recognises as the foundation of a good figure. wnen 11 la Droaen up ids graceiui lines are lessened. The envelope flap decorated with cloth or black silk covered small buttons is a. new trimming for these coats. Ever since the days of the Immense dlrectoire pockets . between the knees and the hips there has been more or less ornamentation at these points. This flap Is usually cut in with the back width of the coat, and lapped over the front width, then flatly stitched down. From the standpoint of design, the novelty In both suits and costumes lies In the skirt- The new narrow affects, banded in closely below the knees as well as cut exceedingly scant are the newest models. The Idea Is being much varied. There are some practical and wearable interpretations. These skirts are really re sponsible for the short Jackets, for It stands to reason with so much of the novelty of the street costume ex ' pressed In the skirt the jacket must.be cut short to reveal the new features. Although the three-piece sulta have not been as popu lar this season as formerly they are shown and worn considerably. The dresses are usually rather simply made, following out the general style tendencies. Coats for traveling wear a:-e mnde full length, seven eighths and three-quarter fitting styles, made of silk or any of the smooth faced fabrics, cut slightly curving In the lower part of the skirt to conform with the new figure ne. In motor coats loose and half fitting models are shown In mixtures and rough cloths. Ratine, called also velour delaine, is the novelty cloaking ma terial. AH these coats have plain coat sleeves. . full length, cut strictly tailored style, sewn in plain at the ' armhole. For novelty styles a number are shown with sleeve In one with the body, or cut with shoulder In raglan style with large, deep cuffs. Among the materials that are most favored for sepa rate skirts are the black and whitv checked worsted, fine serges In navy and black, and the lighter shades of olive greens, as well as those of the new hairline stripe In white and black, black and white, blue and white, and in brown and white. Light gray homespuns are also popular, as are white, serge, white duck, while unJ colored linens. Khaki In its original color will be used foreveryduj skirts, and It is most economical for it does not begin to show the soil as does the white separate skirt. It Is not dressy and cannot be worn in the many ways that ' a smart white linen skirt can, but It is not Intended for this kind of wear. ' All the wash skirts of the season open from hem to . hem so that they may be washed and ironed easily. When plaits are used on these wash skirts they are shallow, side, not box, and put in the skirt above the knee in narrow groups. These Inserts are not regular In their line around the figure. They are placed here and there, as though one had no exact knowledge of "v space or distance. This gives irregularity to skirts, which is not a bad method as it makes them differ one from another and keeps them from the air of precision that Is not always attractive. The skirt for every day wear during vacation days is of the six or seven gored mode), with each of the seams definitely outlined by a quarter Inch lap, which is well stitched down. The back Is the old fashioned habit variety with the seam straight up the middle and fasten- i lng at the left front. A more fashionable model has a shaped panel down the back Instead of the two gores Hi.- - P if . ' ' ft''?''"'"' ' ;f iff' " ' ' Y Hl- I fsr W I h-Ll I -"H T ' 1 iff Ujby Those . ho VI -i ' U I ! i , V V I - 1 !! j I JJ ' ''' , i V T 4 0 Att&a.ctiveiyhite Linen ScxiV Sitilt Of ' Nktixtfal. Cblofed. Hmdee withT&immi rx5 s ok JJlacK joined up to the middle. Onr none of these skirts is there any attempt at decoration. When a skirt has to stand constant tubbing It has to be studied out with attention to every de tail. The flare Is everywhere eliminated. All are cut three inches off the ground and finished with a three inch hern. There Is an Introduction of tiny pockets on models that fasten down the front Instead of at the side. These are slant ing and nave no flaps and are put up well towards the waist. . A placket of any kind la at Its worst In a wash skirt No matter how carefully ironed, the edges of the placket rarely remain even. The hooks and eyes are usually off or they are broken and rusty. The woman who makes any pretention towards style never uses this means of fastening In any skirt that is to be tubbed. She uses buttonholes and buttons at the sM or the middle front, The buttons are more often of pearl than cloth covered. The latter do not wear wall, for the cloth over the mold soon wears out. Tha question of losing th pearl buttons In the wash Is alao a vexa tious one. The invention of a button that la clamped on when the skirt Is worn and taken off when It goes to wash has, however, settled these bothers. The. blouse to match the suit U thoroughly popular. The separata wtatte wash waist la also a fixture. It is tucked and plaited this season and shown with long, three-quarter and short sleeves. It usually has a frill, sometimes detachable, down the front The ones that fasten down the back are worn, but those fastening down the front are by far the smarter for Informal wear. Stzit oi- Gre.e.n Sh3.rrt-urxd. feet pvz'-tlx Txx rn rrrixJt-i 3 3 ot 'BlacK aond. White,. Jsr wn fastening down the back are mor but the law of fashion says sternly that blouse should be made of different color from the skirt Women need many little muslin frocks during the warm months. Each year sees the need more grati fied. It has been found a convenient and practical way to dress In summer and the woman with a good seamstress has discovered that the making; of several muslin frocks in the house Isinot necesarlly an expen sive matter. The new muslin dresses for this occasion are still made in the one piece effect, but they are near ly all put on a belt and worn under a belt or girdle. Striped, sprayed, and sprigged designs are the favorite ones for these charming little frocks. They are usually on a white background and wash better than muslins In solid color. The hst of the moment for traveling and general wear is the sailor. Its trimming Is usually a swirl of gray and blank tulle, deftly trimmed and arranged In a series of loops, slightly wired, which are placed at the back. Another popular model for Informal wear is the eoft straw, modified snd chastened colonial model. An other is the East Indian turban. Another has a large brim which slopes downwsrd until about two inches of the edge, when it suddenly rolls up all around. In addi tion to this general roll the brim Is usually turned up sharply at '"one point or another. This hat, like the ma jority of this season's models, sits low on the head. Veiled effects are still used, particularly with white and black lace. Flowers of Innumerable varieties are used (n abundance. The French wreath of-smnll flowers ll ''considered the smart thing In floral trimmings. In traveling- bags the rage for black continues. Thli season thera are more novelties than ever offered ll enameled leather, In dull finished black seal and walrus Bags built along the kit style are considered muel smarter to carry than the suitcase, though there art occasions when the suitcase is mucli more practical.