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The Omaha Sunday
.magazine Page Copyright, 1U, ty the Star Company. (Jreat Qrltain Rights neservea j. owmhess" 5C SirefctOffloirFai "Could ono help being demurely coquettish when wcnrlng this hat, with 3ts mallncs brim and rose buds!" LADY DUFF-GORDON. the famous "Lucile" of Lon don, and foremost creator of fashions in the world, writes each week the fashion article for this news paper, presenting all that is newest in Lady Duff-Gordon's new Paris establishment brings he, into close touch with that centre of fashion. Lady Duff-Gordon's American es tablishment is at Nos. 37 and 39 . West Fifty-seventh street, New York City. By LADY DUFF-GORDON ("Lucile") MODERN fashionB, like modern dances, manners and mor als, aro tho causo for much, criticism, constant and carping. On all sides wo hoar strong condorana tlonbt the present sartorial tenden cies. We aro told that our clothes) are outragoous; that they aro made' only to appeal to tho coarser In stincts ot man, and that our man ners and morals aro as bad as our clothes. Ib this criticism uncalled (or? Alas, not always, but I think that tho most severe critics do not reallzo that our fashions after all but express tho present unrest and ox cltomont that dominate every phase of the modern life. It is not Immodesty nor Indcconcy ' that 'inspires tho clothes ot to-day. It is that woman being tho Inarticu late half ot tho human race, soeka to express her Individuality, her personality on the world through her clothes. This is a day of oxcltement, a day when wo havo to have our sonsos titillated with a now sensation every hour, a day of extremes in thought and deed. Exaggeration is the key note ot tho ago; wo meet it in the play, tho fashions, in ovory phaso ot eur daily life. Even our manners and morals aro exaggerated, but' this, ia not due to tho fashionB of tho mo meat, although undoubtedly our manners and morals aro affoctod by the clothes we wear. Wo have out grown tho day when bandBomo was as handsomo did; wo now appar ently believe that handsomo is as handsomo dresses. ' Ono of my theories is that a .woman should dress up to her man ners and morals. Now I do not mean by this that the members ot tho demi-monde should wear a certain uniform; nelthor do I tiellove that a mondalne should wear only quiet drab effects. N6 indeed. But, realiz ing fully that we are affected men tally, morally and physically by our clothes. I do bellevo that wo should dress for, as well aa act, tho part In which fatcf has us cast Fortunately for tho future of pic turesque fashions, tho world is divided against itself. .One-halt ot the males thunder at us that our standards of morality are low; that we are growing docadent "It 1b your clothes; your clothes make you Immoral!" they cry. Dut the other Bide comes back with: "You dress as you do because ot your morals; It is your morals that mako your clothes, not your clothes your mor als." To start at tho beginning, I must say once and for all that tho present fashions are not Immoral; that they do not create Immorality, and that in themselves there Is nothing sug gestive In tho really lovely fashions created for the mondalues. It ia pos sible for a lady or, I should better say, a gentlewoman to wear any thing and still be a gentlewoman. It is, In a way, not what she wears, but how she wears it, that marks the difference botween tho well bred woman, the woman of good manners, end the woman who seeks to attract through the euggestiveness of her clothes. Wearing the present fash ions Is like dancing tho present dances It is all In the manner in which it is done. As I have often said, manners may make the man, but dress makes the woman. No woman Is over at her ease who is not dressed for the part which sha must assume in her world. A woman not born pr trained to that part can better assume it if she Is dressed for it It is far easier to act like a lady If one is dressed Ilka oner During all ages the clothes of the woman have reflected the spirit of that day. Critics, looking on at the -Not Your Real Morals, Explains Lady Duff- Gordon, but Your Manners That Make Your Morals, Are Controlled by the Gowns You Wear tango and various and varied hug ging dances, sigh for the days ot the stately minuot Tho graceful minuet simply expressed a stately ago, an ago when the social life was laid along pleasant lines, when thero was no feminist movement; when woman was both born and trained to please by her charm and manners, and only man was vllo, but his vlloness was hidden tinder lace ruffles and delicate satins. Therefore I feel that I am right In my contention that we dress up to our morals, our manners. You see, I never disassociate manners and mor als. I believe that a woman who has really lovely manners must under neath havo really lovely morals. What is tho first step in tho mak ing ot a lady? What does the clever social secretary, the clever dress makor, say to the woman who baa had no social advantages, but whose recently acquired wealth demands attention? "You must dress the part" A woman born to social standing, born a lady, can take certain risks that the other woman daro not It thus behooves tho drossmaker to go slowly when given the task ot "making a lady." To mako a gra cious hostess out ot a woman who has nover entertained, one must dress her In a gracious fashion. She must be dressed In a manner that, whllo it is striking and-very chic, must not overpower her guests, but must mako them realize that sha has put on her Jrery loveliest costume In their honor. I am sending you this week what I think is a perfect costume for A hostess who is at the same time chatelaine of a large country estate. In this costume there Is tho artful suggestion ot the spirit of the day, but also the true charm ot the thor oughbred woman ot the world. In such a costume It seems to me that one could not help having lovely thoughts, and one's manners would naturally become tinged with charm and graclousness. I at one time thought that no woman could be dignified in a short skirt; that one needed a long train tor dignity and soft, clinging dra- Eerles for languorous case. 1 still olleve the lattor. but I have learned that dignity has nothlns to do with a train. There are women who look ridiculous rather than stately la a train, and there are others who look stately and dignified in a short skirt That Statclf. Bess no Longer Depends on the Trained Skirt Is Shown in This Reception Cos tume of Bine and White Striped Silk. It all depends on the way the cos tume Is made and worn. In this cos tume, as you well can see. there ia poth dignity and charm and a cer tain piquancy. The fabrio is a lus trous silk, a beautiful rich blue, somewhat the tone ot cornflowers in full bloom; the white stripe is halt a?. ?ch. w,de' Tno lower part of tho skirt having the stripes horizon tally, is draped in the front over a sup ot lace and embroidery. The Russian blouse has a long skirt marvelously embroidered at the sides and a girdle that is now and quaint No little detail has been overlooked. I wish that I might im press on every woman the impor tance of detain A gown can bo spoiled by the wrong button, the' wrong belt; and when this happens I am sure that the wearer's manners are ruined too. A woman may be only a woman, but I can tell overy member ot my sex that she can enhance her wom anliness by making her manners and clothes harmonize. Do not attempt the coy. the coquettish, when you are wearing an unbecoming hat or wnen you know that your nair is badly dressed. Nothing could be more fatal. In the hat I am sending you here you con see what I call the perfect bat coquettish. Wearing a hat like this, a pretty girl or one who has made herself pretty can be demurely coy, archly coquettish and. as you say In America, get away with it! There is nothing demure in a brim less hat And yet brlmless bats are tho present craze In Paris. But here is Just the thinga bat with a brim of mallnes that frames the face and throws just the right shadow under the eyes The big rose back of the ear and the velvet strings with their own roses make this hat picturesque sud unusual Four Stretches for Slender ness by the Only Girl Who Ever Swam the Golden Gate MI83 HAZEL BESS LAUGENOUR Is the only woman In the world who ever swam the Golden Qate at San Francisco. She has started for England, where she will attempt to swim the English Channel. She Is a California girl, a graduate of the Uni versity of California and of Salem College In North Carolina. Her figure Is flawless. Once she was threatened with being fat. Then she discovered and Invented stretching. Here she tells of It for the benefit of women who are too fat and women who are too thin, for v the exercise works both ways. By HAZEL BESS LAUGENOUR Stretch No. One For Re ducing: the Waist Line. TAKE a straight standing posi tion on tho floor. Bo sure that you are standing straight and that thero is no inward curve to the spine. Halt of the people la the world who think they are stand ing "erect" are actually doing them selves an injury by forcing tho spine to bend Inward. When you have taken the straight stand-up position, draw your chest and upper body up bo that you are stretching all tho muscles from your waist lino up. Inhale slowly as you draw up. Do It slowly, never do It In a hurry. Act as do long distance swimmers. They never rush things. It Is the secret of their endurance. As you start to draw up, your hands are to be at your sides In an extended position. Now start to bring them up from your sides slowly, but stretch with them grad ually. Bring them on up until your hands rest together high above your head. Now como up on your toes, up, up, up, as far as you can get! now, roach stretch, reach for "that something that you can't quite reach and which Isn't there at You have your arms extended as far as possible. Now, slowly bend tho hand back at tho wrist until your fingers are pointing at the ceiling. Bend back at tho wrist as far as you can. Then, with the middle finger, stretch out, down and around until you find that finger actually hooking or describ ing a circle through tho air. Re member, not to bend the elbow. You will not get the stretch on those muscles if you crook your elbow. Now, when you have the movement down pat add to it by working your shoulders much after the way they would work in a common breast swimming stroke. Combine these into a stretch, and it won't be long be fore the benollts of it will be in evi dence. Now, don't think that because I'm telling you to stretch that I moan for you to have your muscles at a tension. Nothing ot tho kind. In any stretch I describe, always remember to relax. Relaxation is the secrot of the whole thing. Stretch No. Three For the Hips, Thighs and Legs. TAKE a firm stand on the floor. Then stretch the right leg out until your right toe Is just tipping the floor. You are now to stretch the big muscles of th'e legs and thighs by "pulling" on the muscle with your toe from tho hip Joint Moke yourself feel the pull. The too will do it If you stretch It far enough. Now bring your leg out till It is horizontal, all the time not forgottlng to "pull" with your big toe. Swing tho leg out and back Diagram ofJStretch No. 4 all just picture yourself aa being under a big cherry tree and that you are stretching on tip toes to get two handtuls of cherries. Keep up there without straining as long as possible. It won't be long at first because your muscles, unused to this exercise, will ache at the outset and you will be glad to como down quickly to a flat-toot position on the floor. Try to come down slowly and deliberately as you continue. Breathe deeply. When you got up to tho top ot the stretch try to hold tho position and gradu ally inhale, easily, the Idea being not to breathe according to count but deeply, easily and naturally. Come down slowly, but keep the hands up above your head, with the first finger ot each hand Just touch ing tips. That will force you to keep at balance, and besides, it aids the stretch. Vary this stretch by going up on one foot, then on tho other. Then try it by bending at the waist line, first to one side and then to the other. Then try It by extending the hands far out In front of you and bend as far forward as you can stretch. Go as far forward and down with the finger tips as you can and Btlll keep your balance. Another good way to vary this stretch is to keep, the hands ex tended high above your bead and to tako short little steps Bideways on your toes, much the way you have seen toe dancers do. Then describe a circle in this manner around the room, always facing out Vary this stretch by adding tho arm movement that I am now going to describe in Stretch Two. Stretch No. Two For Symmet rical Arms, Shoulders and Haads. HOW) your arms out horizontal ly with the fingers stretching as tar out as they can. Now. "sense" the feeling between your shoulder blades. Sense that muscle that's there. The idea is that you want to stretch the muscles from between your shoulder blades to your finger tips, and the way to stretch that muscle is to pull on it with tho middle finger. Stretch' No. 1, Which Is Recommended for Reducing the Waist Line The Breathing Stretch on the Left the Relaxed Body; on the Right Every Muscle Tight and then bend forward until all the weight of your body is on the left leg and your body and the right leg Is almost on a horizontal line, while the position makes your right leg describe as much of a circle as possible. Just as If there was a piece of chalk attached to your toe and you were actually chalking this circle on some sur face. As you swing Into tho stretch let your right arm go out on a level with your right leg and extend the left arm out on a line parallel with the right arm and leg. It is by far the ruost Important ot the exercises, as it is a "sure cure" for big hips, the nightmare of nearly every woman who craves a beautiful figure. Stretch No. Foar "General" Stretch for Entire Body. TAKE a good position on your right foot, tor instance, and stretch out behind with your left toe as far aa you can reach. Extend Diagram t Illustrating Stretch No.l the right arm np as far as you can stretch on a line parallel with the left leg. Let the left arm follow along in the same general line with the left leg. Then stretch good and. plenty. Swing around on your leg with! the left extended behind you ana vary the position of the arms by bringing them around in front, much after the fashion ot one about to dive. Aftor this has been mastered you can add stretch number two by bringing into play some of the fish tall movements.