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10 THE FARMER AND MECHANIC. PLANS CLOTHES FOR YOUNG IN vary half an inch from the pattern. "The outlook for the young men's branch of the clothing: business is just as promising a3 its wonderful growth in the past would lead one to suppo.se it would be'. We are doing the right thing in using the best tail oring .procurable, even if the fabrics put into suits nowadays are not as durable as those favored in the past. Tt not uncommon for youne men IkoflllnPQQ Wl FnH VV lfin NO to buy two suits a season, and conse nueniiy lilt? wtar iiicLi was ucukiimru Longer Feel Young, signer Says De- wear of a suit a number not required. was of years is New York Times. One of the bent-known creators of men's fashions is a young man. He hopes to stay young. "My usefulness will cease," says A. G. Peine of Chi cago, "when 1 am no longer able to f.l vnimir art vountr. and think as a young man does. For when a man has reached a certain age limit he cannot see things through the eyes of youth." As a designer of clothing for young men Mr. Peine has upset some of the cherished traditions of the profes sion. His workshop in its truest sense sees very little of him. He roams around the country at large, ming ling with the men whose tastes ht must satisfy, whose desires he must anticipate. These men he associates with in their clubs, their sports, their t1pMsurfs. and their business life. His trip from coast to coast take in the big universities and the small col leges, every and any place where young men congregate. Mr. Peine has an engaging personality, and it is easy to imagine that wherever he goes he is taken as "one of the crowd" and not as a prying outsider. The sources of style are many and complex. Mr. Peine has little use of through common NORTH CAROLINA MAN CLIMBS UP MONT BLANC styles produced agreement. "It is not the idea itself," he says, 'but the suggestion which that idea makes on the receptive mind that leads to originality in style creation. Today, for instance, I may be walk ing along Fifth Avenue and see there two men. What they wear is of lit tle consequence except to wake in my mind certain discrepanies in their ap pearance that might be remedied by the substitution of a different line, another treatment of their style of dress. With the mental picture of what would really suit tiie.se men I work out the whole effict. The faultiness of their attire lends itself readily to the suggestion of improve ment, and something new is created. Besides this critical process there are the differences which all good dress ers affect and which may easily be in corporated into a design. The tail ors to the select have ideas that may be of value. I keep in close touch with these groups, both here and on the other side. There may be de tails of dress to be adapted from tlu, fashions in women's wear. "When I have picked up an idea and drafted my design, the work has not been completed until I have se cured 'the finished garment in just the style I had in mind. It is not sufficient for a designer to 'come close,' in the actual garment to the mental picture he had formed of that article. He must get a perfect result. To do this we have at times made a dozen or more garments just to get the one effect we desired. The rest are thrown away. In different parts of the country different styles are required. Special models are produced for different parts of the country. Particular at tention is paid to special requirements In given sections. For instance, the narrow shoulder styles that are eager ly taken in New York are not so popular on the coast, wher. a big coat is desired, with full shoulders, well built up. This sort of specializa tion requires a careful combing for Ideas in the various sections of the country. It wouldn't do for me to stay in Chicago and plan what the mien of the whole country are to wear. My ideas in that case would be limited to what I saw in Chicago. "It is this specialization that has led to the amazing of the young men's clothing business. Ten years t ago clothes designed especially for ' young men were unheard of. We had youth sizes which were made about a half an inch smaller all around than the 32 to 36 sizes worn by older men, but, as far as style was concerned, the young men were wear ing the same designs as their elders. Today the larger retailers have sep arate departments and separate buy ing organizations for handling young men's clothing. Style is featured. We have odd sizes, shorts and stouts, so that every young man, regardless of his physical make-up. may be attired in up-to-the-minute dress. It is get ting to be more and more the habit of buyers to let the price go hang, as long as the -style is something new and attractive. A suit made of the same fabric we may use in a number could be sold for 25 per cent, less than our model, and yet ours be pre ferred simply because our style and tailoring were better. In manufac turing our product we try to get as far away from the machine idea as possible. Where it is possible to sub stitute hand work for machine work we do so. There is no machine cut ting in our factory. The work is done by hand, one suit at a time, be cause me results attained are more accurate. Put six layers of cloth on the cutting table, run your machine over them, and the bottom layer may A. L. C. Hill, of Kinston, Leads Party On First Expedition This Year, Says New York Herald. Kinston. Aug. 14. The Paris edi tion of the New York Herald tells of the first expedition of the year up Mont Blanc, led by a Kinstonian, A. I.. C. Hill- Hill is a noted long-distance walker. National Guard staff captain, and when home, a cotton buyer and prominent in business circles. The Herald says the ascent "was made under the best possible condi tions." With Captain Hill was Ken neth Dawson Othley, an Englishman, and Professor Piot, of Geneva, to gether with three Chamonix guides. Hill crossed a crevasse in the ice fif teen feet wide on a ledge only three inches wide. The "human toboggan" was neces sary at one point, where the party slided down a slope of 400 feet. Peo ple at the hotel at Chamonix watch ed the daring American, whose home before he came to Kinston some years ago was in Portsmouth, Va.,. through telescopes as he and his companions made the assent. Floral tributes were purchased by the guests for the three adventurers. Hill went to France to observe the fighting at close range, and only re cently went into Switzerland. CALLED PASTOR GUEST OF ASHEVILLE PARISH Asheville, Aug. 14. With a view to investigating the call which recently was extended to him by the vestry of Trinity Episcopal church, Rev- Willis G. Clark, of Birmingham, arrived at this city yesterday and will remain at Asheville until Tuesday. He is the guest of Harmon A. Miller during his stay at this city. Yesterday he was taken over the city in an automobile and considerable time was spent in a trip through the church. Last night he was the guest of honor at a dinner given by Mr. Miller, at which the members of the vestry were enter tained. Monday night, the men of the parish and their friends will meet Mr. Clark at the hme of W. Vance Brown. Although the visiting rector will attend the services at Trinity church tomorrow, it Is stated that he will not preach. HAD TIME TO WASTE. Tourist Need Not Hurry On Obliging Convict's Account, E. M. Burgess, vice-president and general manager of the Mountain States Telephone and Telegraph Com pany, of Denver, was once making a'n automobile tour of inspection through Southern Utah. That State employs some of its convicts in the construc tion of roads. While on a narrow road the automobile party stopped at a shallow creek, which they were about to ford, in order to put water in the radiator. A convict, hauling a load of crushed stone, pulled up behind them. The chauffeur was delayed a bit, and Mr. Burgess turned to the convict, saying apologetically: "We'll pass on in just a moment." "Oh, I'm in no hurry," the convict placidly replied. "I've got 20 years." New York Evening Post. French General Quits Dardanelles Command fife? S:?.:x :ffigte&&&9te&$& - If ' - ' w 1 I 1 1 ul ft M i v- "" &xWkS - ! k ,s " - J ? " . 1 General Gouraud, sitting. This photograph of General Gour aud, French commander in the Dar danelles, was taken at Sidul Bahr a few days before he was wounded. It shows him sitting on one of the heavy guns with which the Turkish EVANGELIST "BOB" JONES SPEAKS AT JUNALUSKA (By the Associated Press). Asheville, Aug. 14. Rev. "Bob" Jones, of Montgomery, Ala., evange list for the Southern Methodist Church, was speaker today at the Bible Conference at Lake Junaluska. He will speak again tomorrow, and Rev. A. M. Bennett, of the Candler School of Theology at Atlanta, will speak tomorrow night. Dr. Bennett's address will end the conference. Dr. H. M. Dubose, of Atlanta, director of the conference, Dean W. F. Tillet, of Vanderbilt University, and Dr. S. G. Gordon, of New York, made short ad dresses today before leaving for their homes. SAY POPE DEPLORES EAST PRUSSIA'S FATE TWO KINDS OF PROGHKSSIVES. uur issue is crats." says Mr. stantially that is he backs up his New York Evening Post. William Allen White's renlv to Mr McHargs appeal for a union of the Progressives with the Republicans makes what Horace Greeley was ac customed to call "mighty interestin' reading." And what makes it so in teresting is not so much the snap that Mr. White puts into his writing, but the practical conclusion that it natur ally suggests. to beat the Demo McHarg; and sub all he says, though appeal with a Lin coln quotation, whose only relevance is that the words "the real issue" occur in it. Mr. Whit, hnwpvw Vm v "VTa.j m. a.. J no use for this issue: hp nKQAintoiw refuses to acknowledge that "the chief end of man is to lick tho Dprnn. crats and enjoy their offices forever' T--I S-fc A J-V t A 3 14 A. A A "V -V V axe uuca cLuiiui mai s,uuu,uuu or more of the Progressives have gone back to (h T ..11: C - 1 3 . . Lnr iruuiicuH ioiu; put tnese were ir.e men wno uicrn't really know why they were Progressives. The other -.uuu.uuu, wno stood by the colors last rail, did know. They will stay away, says Mr. Wrhite; there is noth ing wnaiever in tne Republican party as at present constituted that appeals to them, and they 'don't care wheth er tne Republicans whip the Demo crats or the Democrats whip the Re publicans in 191ft' (By the Associated Press). Amsterdam, Via London, Aug. 14 What purports to be a letter o'f sym pathy to the people of East Prussia from Pope Benedict, through the Bishop of Frauenburg, is printed by the Bavensche Kuner, says a tele gram from Munich. The letter is given as follows: "The Holy Father deplores with sincerest sympathy the sad position of the population of the Baltic nrov- inces, who, in fact, for their loyal Christian views deserved a better fate. At the same time, the Holy Father welcomes most heartily the wonder ful readiness of all Germany to make sacrifices in order to assist the strick en provinces. As a sign of his father ly and loving care, he sends this grift of ten thousand marks ($2,500 for the relief of sufferers." General Baillound. forts on the Gallipoli IVnin.- hv been bombarded. A few days i.i! - he was relieved of comni.tM i '!"!: reason for this ha.s not lc j. :i ii-f -ed, but it was supposed th. l'r -ju h government was not satistift with th progress he had made. SAYS GERMANY READY TO TALK PEACE Paris, Aug. 14. A dispatch Fournier's News Agency from k m says that the German Emperor, in answer to the peace letter of Pop Benedict XV, declared his willmns to accept peace negotiations provided the nations with which Germany at war made the first overtures tria made a similar reply to the letter, the dispatch adds. A 11s-i'op-'J Pope Benedict's appeal for pa addressed to the belligerent n:!; .ns, was issued on July 28, the ar.rr.vr. sary of the opening of the Kur p.Ma war Tt nslfprt whv a. direct or indi rect exchange of views could not initiated in which "the rights ui i aspirations" of the various could be considered as far as and "thus put to an end th combat, as has been the c viouslv under similar circun- COMMITS SUICIDE BY TAKING PARIS GREEN . 1 .- t'ISt tdt. re s. Mrs. Fenner Heath Deviant! Was Tired of Married In ferred Death. ..ad Prr- : r . n .1 BECOMES F1EL.D SECRETARY FOR DAVIDSON COLLEGE Davidson, Aug. 14. The president's office has been notified of the accept ance by Rev. J. C. Shive. of Wilsnn of the office of field secretary of Da vidson College and of his immediate entrance upon the duties of the same. Mr. Shive. for the Dast sfvn vpprs a highly successful pastor at Wilson, is no novitiate in the work upon which he enters for the college. Some years ago he was engaged in one or more financial canvasses and was pre eminently successful in his undertak ing. His work for Davidson will be both to seeure additional endowment and also to keep the college steadily before the public, notably before the churches schools and ecclesiastical bodies to which it makes its appeal for support artd patronage. Rocky Mount, Aug. 14. that she was tired of marnV that she preferred death, Mr Heath, of the Marl Swamp ' near Vanceboro, on Thursday r ing took her own life y A ing a large dose of Paris zr : Following her art the de - pressed a regret and dei l ti- 1 she wanted to live she told '' had done and a physician w i ' moned. Valiant work was hopes of saving her life, but avail, and she died within .1 time. ( Mrs. Heath had been marri though only for two years to ond husband, and is surviv- husband and two small rhi! ir- ! news of her rash act and ' death came as a great surpn many friends in Van"r , throughout that section by w was held in tne nignei KXPfi.IXS SERBIA'S lvl ' ' :i i (By the Associated !'r-s' London. Aug. 14. Th- ' that Serbia's attitude tw-t: claims of Bulgaria was rlar. Sl-Kir. t-i aire r- i 'j ii ;l l TT1 if ' d ' Slavs in Macedonia wer ! 11 was made tolav by M. Serbian minister to I.(nd'n trt cliimu rpppnMv I'lt f'T'.V authoritative Bulgarian 1 1 1 ' 1 it n--