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DICTATES OF FASHION.
THB STYLES FOR STREBT AND HOUSE. Ganera] Gossip Pertaining to Latest Fads in Women's Appar el— A Short Dissertation on the Subject of Jackets. •The Bolero" is the name modistes plve to the popular short waist-jackets •f the day, and when they pronounce it ©orrectly the "e" has a long a sound, and the "r" is given a decided roll. Whichever way its nam* Is pith A Diner Jacket. nounced though, all wear the Jacket. It makes the tall person jaunty, the Short person taller. When the quips and frills are put on, the lean ones look plump when they are left off, the fat ones look trim. That we have azi Americanized edition of it makes no difference the comfort of it is there the same. A bewildering little affair, worn by a young hostess at a dinner, had a skirt of pale blue bengaline, dashed with black lines, and having five small flounces at intervals of twelve inches of gathered blue ribbon. The shirt waist of the same material was made extravagantly full, with the newest of large sleeves. Over this she wore a fel enuine Spanish bolero of dark blue vet, wrought with gold braids and passementeries. The neck of the jacket folio wend the line of the gown-neck, which was in round "baby" fashion Just low enough to show to good ad vantage a pretty, graceful throat, and was finished with a small upright ruf Me of bengaline. The jackets worn in the house are cleeveless those on the street, as a role, have sleeves, but this is left en tirely to the wearer, whether she wish to be cool or not. The bolero proper should have no Theater Jacket of Jet. ftoeves still many tailors are putting tilt in in, and very large ones at that, and are also giving lull revere over the shoulders. The bolero differs from the Eton, the Figaro and the zouave, in that it comes entirely to the waist line, both back and front. A dainty jacket of cut jet designed for house and theater wear, is made in In the same shape as the dark blue velvet just described, excepting that it oornes up about the neck and has a flaring Marie Stuart collar. Another theater jacket of cut jet is fashioned to wear with a girdle and eollar piece. Thv first diagram shows how a din ner jacket like the dark blue velvet goe can be cut from a plain basque pat tern. On tbe senter seam ef the back lay ti How to Cat a Jacket From a J3a* qae Pattern. your goods folded. Cut as shown la the diagram, making very little curve for tbe under-arm seam. The front is so simple as to need no explanations. Indeed, the whole jacket is simplicity itself, as it requires only the under arm and shoulder seams. The outline can easily be varied to suit all tastes by cutting it round instead of square, and higt-necked instead of low, etc. Most women would greatly enjoy having one or two jaunty house jackets of cloth. Such a one of chocolate brown Indies' cloth can be cut by the second di a gram. It is at its prettiest when worn over a silk blouse of cream or light blue. The blouse shown in the picture fastens Russian fashion a little to one side, and the crush collar and bolt both terminate in loose knots with "donkey ear" ends. The silk has bro ken lines of brown. The jacket may be either Eton or bolero length. Tb» front at tba chocolate sloth Jacket is more complicated than that of the dinner jacket, but the back is cut in the same way. In cutting the front place the ma terial so that you will have fourteen inches above the neck of the basque pattern. Beginning with the armiiole at side seam then cut the shoulder seam just as long as the one for the back is cut—say two and a half inches. From the shoulder seam cut to form revers as shown in line b. slightly curv ing so as to correspond with line s of the back to which it is to be joined. This revers piece is to be just half the width of the back. The seam at the center of the back of this piece is cut very slightly on the bias so that in the joining «tliere is a slight flare at the bottom of the collar. For the edge of the collar and rever cut from the upper edge of collar seam a curving line parallel to the curved line "b" continuing to the bottom of jacket. It will look very much like a quarter of a circle, but if line A and are properly joined and the seam in the back of collar be neatly finished the result will be a very pretty cr m bination of collar and rever. the rcver being in one piece with the jacket and the collar joined to the back with a seam. The very daring and brilliant jacket designed for mountain wear was sent out by Rausdintz from Paris two weeks ago. The cut is of no especial name, for it. comes at least six inches below the waist. It is of blue mottled basket cloth, the seams in the back flaring out sharply below the waist, falling into large flutes. The straight revers are cut. in with the front pieces, then pressed back and narrowly edged and also faced with a red and brown fig ured straw siik exactly resembling a bandana handkerchief. The armholes are also piped with this silk and it makes the finish around the jacket. This jacket is to be worn over a blouse of straw-colored bandana, flg- Cbocolate Cloth Jacket. ured with a very small palmleaf pat tern in red and brown and the front is crossed with some of the broad woven border that edges the handker chiefs, in which the colors of the palm leaves are repeated. These bands are edged with tine black thread lace half an inch wide sewed to ruflle s-lightly. The same lace edges the band at the neck. For outdoor wear serge boleros will be popular. They can be worn over full silk shirt waists with all their bravery of jabot and fancy belts, or equally well over a regular gentleman's vest of heavy silk, white pique of cassimere. With the vest goes the white linen collar and four-in-hand tie. When the street bolero has no sleeves the soutache edges the armhole to match the double revers. Some of these jackets seen at swell importers' are piped with a contrasting color. Soutache is confined to the reverse. r—• Diagram of Chocolate Clotb Jacket. cuffs and collar piping edges the en tire jacket. The trimmings of the house boleros are more dressy. Gold, silver and jew eled passameteres are used on all the dark velvets either as an edging or, in larger ornaments, appliqued onto the front and in "V'-fashion in the back. Some very handsome boleros are edged with small gold sequins which shimmer and shine in the most delightful fashion, making them quite like the genuine Spanish article. Others are studded all over with small jet caboehous. A very few are quite without raanienia- Parisian Mountain Jacket. tion except for the brilliant rich lin ings of which one catches an occasional srtimnse. TWO YERY STRONG MEN. SAMSON AND SAN DOW COM PARED Some Feats of the German Her cules Seem to Give Him the Paim Over the Scriptural Hero—Three Horses on His Chest. Not the least remarkable tiling about Sandow, the German Samson, who has caused amazement wherever he has appeared, Is that he grows stronger Sandow dally, although long ago sufficiently provided with muscles to go through life without fear of being abused or down-trodden by his fellow creatures. That this is so is proved by a little in cident, related in the New York World, that occurred while the strong man was in Paris. He was stopping at one of the big hotels there, and,- after din ner, strolled into the billiard roam for a smoke. A certain Frenchman, who took Sandow for an ordinary man, having been introduced, began to act in an overbearing manner, and finally struck him in the face. Sandow took this good-naturedly for a wliile, but at last his human nature asserted itself, and after the man had struck him re peatedly he got mad. He took the i Frenchman by the collar with one hand and by the trousers near the knee with the other, and holding him up into the air knocked his knees into his face un til he was nearly senseless. He ended by jamming him down on a thick oak table, smashing it to pieces. The feats depicted in messenger boys' dime novels, where the hero is fre quently represented as catching the man up by the heels, sSvinging him about his head and finally hurling him through a brick wall, could be realized if Sandow were the hero. In fact, picking one man up would be a very small matter compared to some of tho things he does at his exhibition. One of these is to poise at arm's length a dumb-bell, in each globe of which a fuil-grown man is coiled up. This is a mighty interesting thing to look at, and Sandow says he enjoys it. The feel ings of the men who permit themselves to be made a human dumb-bell of have never been learned. The fact that they will submit to being hoisted eight feet in the air shows the confidence they aave in Sandow's strength. Sandow poises this dumb-bell, which weighs 04 pounds, as a sort of warming-up process, preparatory to entering upon the more serious work of the evening. When he first comes on the stage he has on a dress suit, which makes him look awkward, because of the tre mendous development of the upper part of his body. His arm, between A Difficult Job. the shoulder and the elbow, is as large as an orUnary man's leg at the thigh, and iliis makes the coat stick out as it he were stuffed. His waist is compar atively small, as is that of every very strong man. Sandow's legs are straight, measuring the general direction from the hips to the feet, but they are won derfully knotted with muscles of all shapes and sizes. Many of these mus cles are seen only in Sandow. When he has removed his dress coat and re placed it with a sleeveless working jacket, he steps upon a pedestal, to ward which a strong calcium light is directed and begins to show his mar velous physical development. He takes various positions bends his arms and legs, throws out his chest, and does other things which cause the women in the audience to express their admi ration. Then he turns his back, folds his hands behind hi* head and makes his muscles dance. That is, without moving hii arms, he causes various knots and muscles in his legs and arms to wriggle around as if they were alive. Tho effect is very novel. What he calls his most difficult per formance is that in which a mounted soldier crosses a bridge supported on Sandow's chest. The horse and the man are real. Later he supports a platform on which stand three large sized ponies, the total weight of which is 2.600 pounds. This is so far ahead of any other feat of strength with which we are familiar nowadays, that it is necessary to go away back in his tory in order to find a man who can decently compare with Sandow. This man is Sampson. Compared With Samson of tbe Bible Samson began to show that he was possessed of unusual strength from the time when he was a very young man. It will be remembered that., having been down to Timnath, he saw there a certain woman, daughter of the Philis tines, with whom he fell in love. Upon his return home he demanded of his parents that they get her for his wife. The objection was made that he should no marry a daughter of the uncircum cised enemies of Judah, but Samson persisted and finally prevailed. Sam son. with his parents, then went down to Timnath, as related in the Book of Judges, on the way to which place he met and killed a young lion. Instances have been known in history where a man, single-handed and with out. weapou of any sort, has fought and conquered a lion, so that this particular feat of Samson's is not so remarkable as it might seem at first, thought. It is not improbable that Sandow could get the better of a lion in .a fair tight. There is 110 doubt that he would come out ahead if he got a good hold on the animal's throat and could keep out of reach of the paws. The next feat of importance that Samson accomplished was when (Judges, xiv., 1!)) "He went down to Ashkelon and slew thirty men of them and took their spoil." Here it is not explained in what manner the thirty men met their deaths. They might have been poisoned, in which case Samson would have deserved no special credit for the exercise of mus cular power. Tbe word slew, however, seems to imply more or less of force, and it is not unfair to assume that the thirty men were put to death violently. If so, the next question is whether in a bunch, in divisions or separately. San dow, of course, if he wished, could easily kill thirty men, one at a time, and he might even dispose of them two or three at a time. Subsequently, when tht Philistines, Dumb-bella Containing: Men. in revenge for the burning of their crops, burned to death Samson's wife and her father, the Biblical strong man "smote them hip and thigh." Here again there is a lack of detail which prevents a comparison of any importance. The only thing that indi cates the great exercise of great strength on Samson's part is the ex pression "hip and thigh." It is a pow erful expression, and you can almost see Samson towering among his puny enemies and dealing out death to all who came within convenient roach. For, besides being a strong man, he must have had a wonderful amount of nervous energy. Without this, great muscular power would not be of much use. There are many strong men who are unable to perform the feats of strength of weaker men simply because they laek that peculiar susceptibility to mental excitement which seems to add the power of the nerves to that of the musules. To illustrate this point a story is told of a farmer who was once obliged to lift a log in order to relieve his child from a position of great dan ger. Under the excitement of the mo ment he lifted the log with great ease. On the following day it was all four men could do to hoist the log into a cart. Sandow unquestionably possesses this nervous energy, and, if egged on by the desire for revenge, as Samson was, he would probably do much dam age, especially if his opponents carried no firearms, as was the case in Sam son's time. On another occasion, when Samson had been locked in the city of Gaza and his enemies lay in waiting all night for 1dm, he (Judges xvi., 8) "lay till midnight, and arose at midnight, and took the doors of the gate of the city and the two posts, and went away with them, bar and all, and put them upon his shoulders and carried them up to the top of a hill that is before Ilebron." Everything here depends, of course, on the weight of the gate and posts. One of Sandow's feats is to hang by the knees, lift a man off the ground, raise him on to his knees and then to reach down and pick up a second man. It seems that a man who can do this ought to be able to carry away an or dinary gate. When you consider that Sandow can poise, with one arm, John Sullivan or any other man of equal weight, von will realize that he may not be ili 1 all, far behind the Script ural hero muscular powei\ A Snre Sign, He—Is this a tragedy? She- Yes, don't you see how the hero drags his feet when he walks. PAYINO HER DRESSMAKER. Tbe Novel Expedient Resorted to by the Daughter of a Millionaire* The daughter of a retired millionaire has an allowance of $3,000 a year for pin money. Out of it she Is expected to pay for her clothes and other per sonal expenses, such as gloves, candy, books and matinee tickets. One would imagine that she could manage to squeeze along on her Income, particu larly as she had no board to pay. But she didn't. In fact, she found herself very heavily in debt to her dressmaker one fine morning. She struggled on for a few months, according to the Minneapolis Tribune, keeping her trouble to herself and trying to econo mize. Finally a crisis was reached. She had "nothing to wear" and could not order any new dresses without paying something on account. To make the matter worse the dressmaker be gan pressing her for her money. She went to her father. He refused to help her. She appealed to her brother, lie sympathized with her, but he could do nothing, as he was deeper in debt than his sister. Then she went again to her father. This is substantially what this cruel parent said: "No. my child I will not help you pay any of your debts. Your allow ance is large enough to supply you with everything you require. If you go be yond it you must suffer the conse quences. Go to your dressmaker and arrange to pay your bill out of your future allowance. In the meantime you have all the clothes any reasona ble being could wear for a year. Let this be a lesson to you." Did the young -woman take her fath er's advice? Not a bit of it. When she found that tears and entreaties would not move him she took counsel with some of her relatives and friends. The result is that a private entertain ment has been arranged for the benefit of the poor unfortunate millionaire's daughter. All her friends are expected to buy tickets, and the proceeds will go toward liquidating tbe hated dress maker's bill. Perhaps if the father would hear about it he would veto the proceedings. For that reason it is not well to mention her name, except to say that she is a member of the 400, and that this is a true tale. THE DOG'S MUZZLE. Fleanov Greatorex Takes Jacqsei Out for a Stroll In Paris. "Lie down, Jacques I won't go out?" A protest by a wet, cold nose against my hand. "But, you ridiculous dog, ean you not that it is raining cats and dogs?" "That's more reason for going," say two very beautiful pleading brown eyes, with amber lights starring their depths. "Well, well, we will go, Jacques come on. Don't wag that short, pom ipous duster of yours too hard. Come and be harnessed, old fellow here is your collar, and it is something to get on without tangling the links in your soft, fluffy wool. Now, where's the muzzle? Don't we wish old Minister Loze could be muzzled instead1? There, don't rub your poor strapped nose so against my knees. It's 110 good, Jac ques. You will have plenty of time to get used to it, for you are of a race just now barely tolerated by the gov ernment, and if the strap conies off. off you go to the fourrierre, a vagrant dog to be—oh, my doggie, do not let us think of the massacre of the faith ful last summer! The people at least are on your side." "I get my own harness in the way of toque, waterproof and short skirt, aud as I slowly dress the vision of another poodle like my Jacques comes to me. He belonged to the English minister to Paris, and was stolen last summer and no trace of him could be found. One day a forlorn little creature, with bis ears cut, shave* 1 from top to toe, starv ing, wretched, presented himself at the gate of the embassy. The porter chased him away again and again, but Kip Van Winkle returned day after day. and finally, by a trick, made himself known to the servants and was petted into health, but his beauty was gone with his ears. "There were stories of last summer's reign of terror which made me hur riedly button my gloves, seize my um brella, nearly fall over Jacques, who is making the usual preparatory sa laam, his nose on the floor, his tail in the air, then a wild double up for a race. I look back at the warm room— the flowers, the coffee tray, the drift of rugs on the polished wax floor marking the transit of a black wool cyclone, and I follow."—Gody's Magazine. Care of Draiirrle*. There are so many kinds of material used in these draperies that a general rule will not answer for their care, writes Maria Parloa in a timely article on "Closing the house for summer" in the Ladies' Home Journal. Muslin, lace, scrim, etc., should be washed and rinsed carefully, dried in the sun, folded aud put away "rough dry." Of course, very fine lace draperies she uld go to the cleaner's. It may be that some of the lace curtains will not re quire cleaning, in which case gently shake them, to remove all dust then fold them carefully and put them away wrapped in a clean sheet. Heavy drap eries of silk, linen, woolen or cotton should be thoroughly shaken In the air. Let them hang on the line (in the shade, if possible!) for an hour or two then fold them smoothly, pin lliem in sheets and place in drawers or boxes. Tf the draperies arc woolen they should be sprinkled with naphtha, but if of tilk, linen or cotton this will not be neces sary. However, if buffalo bugs have appeared in the house at any time, it would be a wise precaution to sprin kle naphtha over the sheet and have the creases in the box or drawers satur ated with it. It must be remembered that these heavy draperies are to lie folded for several months therefore it is important that the greatest care be taken in folding them, that there shall be 110 unnecessary creases. Sbe Was u Summer Girl. Jack—Why are you so cold and in different to me, Amy? And only a few weeks ago you told me that I was the sunshine of your life. Amy—But remember, Jack, that this is the season when the sunshine loses Its power. BLEW UP HIS SHIP. A Dutch Captain Who P*»«d His Magailne Rather Than Surren der. The Dutch man-of-war Van Speijk, which took part in the great naval re view at New York, recalls to ttie Times an act of self-saorifice so glorious that at the time it took place the whole world sang the praises of the man whose name this Dutch nraft bears. In 1880 the Belgian rebellion had broken out and a Dutch squadron of eight men-of-war had been stationed before the port of Antwerp for the purpose of preventing this important city from joining the rebels. On Oct. 27 the populace of Antwerp, after hav ing broken open the gunpowder maga zine, opened fire upon the vessels and very badly damaged a small gunboat under command of a naval lieutenant, J. O. .T. Van Speijkv The commander of the squadron, who at first had only answered the fire of the city from his small pieces, was at last obliged to bring the heavy guns to bear upon the rebellious place, and, assisted by the artillery from the fort, Antwerp was bombarded for four hours. The result of the punishment w .y that a large bonded warehouse and 2.10 dwellings were put in ruins, loo buildings were nearly destroyed and 300 were more or less damaged, while many of the in habitants were killed or wounded. Van Speijk, who years before, in the East Indies had merited promotion for bravery, behaved so courageously that his king decorated him with a military order. An armistice had been concluded be tween the warring parties, and the squadron before Antwerp, while keep ing itself ready for action, never once broke the conditions of the truoe. Van Speijk was stationed with his gunboat near the little village of Ooesierwell, to the north of Antwerp. On the 5th of Feb., 1881, a sudden squall drove the vessel from its anchorage, and it was hurled against the bank of the Scheldt. While the sailors were trying to float the craft a crowd of armed Belgians unexpectedly boarded the ship, tore down the Dutch colors, trampled them under foot and demanded an immedi ate surrender. Resistance was out of the question, assistance from the other ships could not be had. but the valiant young commander preferred death to a surrender. Under pretext ©f going for his papers he went down to his cabin, met the cabin boy, and walled to the latter: "Boy, save yourself!" The boy flew on deck, jumped overboard, and hardly had he done so when a ter* rifie explosion occurred. Van Speijk had set tire to the ship's powder, and had saved the honor of himself and his country's flag by blowing up friend aud foe alike. Besides a large number of Belgians, fourteen of his own men per ished. and only five, including the boy, were saved. After some time frag ments of the hero's body were found and honored with a splendid public burial in the new church at Amster dam. where a tomb was erected in Van Speijk's honor, while a monument in the Civil Orphan asylum, where he I had been brought up, keeps his mom or.v forever green with tiie orphan boys, who never grow tired of hearing and tolling his story. At the time of the gallant, deed a new sloop-of-war was building which received the name of Van Speijk, while a royal decree or dered that for all time to come a Dutch man-of-war should l*ear the name of the gallant young lieutenant. The deed created the wildest enthusiasm through out the country. Orators, poets, his torians and painters united in immor talizing the memory of the man who, like a second Claassen, hurled with him into death the enemy he co.ild not conquer. Van Speijk's nearest rela tives received pensions, while the five sailors who had survived were also pensioned. HOW TO WIN AT EUCHRE. A Louisville, Player Gives tbe Seeret of Her Success Last Winter. There are as many superstitious peo ple in the world to-day as there ever were, says the Louisville Courier-Jour nal, and the belief in signs, charms and omens has by no means passed away. A charming young married woman has won almost, all of the prizes at the pro gressive euchre parties she has attends ed this winter. She plays well, but, as a friend told her, "the best players have to hold good cards to win." At the end of the season she told what she thinks has been the cause of all her luck. "I never fail to cut my fin ger nails before breakfast every Mon day morning," she said, and that ig my magical charm against bad luck for the whole week." A pretty little woman, who was visiting here from a neighboring town, looked admiringly but the luck}' one was positive that tt inquired "if filing would not do as weU, for cutting the nails injures them so," at her own dainty fingers and anxiously wotdd not, and the pretty nails would have to be sacrificed if their owner wished to win. One of the best women I know shows a piece of silver to the new moon each month, and if she has to turn back after she starts anywhere she carefuUy spits before sbe sets out again. The most cherished possession of one of the most successful singers now on the stage is a pair of old stock ings she wore on the night of her greatest triumph, and she is so sure that so long as they re main with her so long will her luck last that she would part sooner with her costliest gems than with these worn silk hose. It is said the late Mr. Belmont would bet heavily if a flight of birds crossed bis path while he was on his way to the race course. And so on, from high to low, every one has a pet superstition carefully hidden away or laughingly confessed. Banana Trifle. The latest combination Is to slip® the bananas and lay them In a syrup made from a quarter of a pound of castor sugar and a wineglasxful of cognac. Let them steep in the trifle 4 dish soak desiccated cocoanut in sugar syrup flavored with orange-flower water (the concentrated essence). Lay a coating half an inch thick over the bananas. Then an inch of sponge cake crumbs. Cover with cream, whipped, flavored and sweetened ornament with bright-colored jollies aud pieces of fresh and sun-dried bananas cut into strips and stamped out into fancy patterns with vegetable cutters.—British Baker Had Confectiontr.